NEW TIMING BELT and or New Water Pump.The timing belt is timed at #4 (rear jug, cylinder) firing, never ever at #1. A HARD COLD FACT !
New seals , new head, oil pump , new block.
Sidekick or Trackers 1.6L SOHC ,only
THIS INDEX page covers commonalities.
JUMP to MAIN menu if ready ?
You don't even need to know what TDC is, just find the marks, and align them. ( 2 pairs of marks at 12PM)
The cam and crank timing is cast in to them, unchanging for forever.
Sure, the 2 keys can shear, not looking, is a path to failure (all that work wasted , for the lack of a simple Gander !)
Never ever, use the distributor to time the cam (that is backwards !, the dizzy can be timed 4 different ways , believe it! or FAIL)
The Suzuki engineer made this choice "#4 firing belt change out steps", not me, not you, it's just a fact.
See the SOHC run, in the simulation Video. See how #1 and #4 track ( #4 Power strokes as #1 Inducts.)
You are here, because you never did the 60,000 mile timing belt swaps? Now compression is bad. 100 PSI is bad.
You are here, because the last mechanic didn't read , the on engine topic, TSB ? or does not believe in Torque wrenches?
If you just got a Sidekick or Tracker in your garage?, this is the first test. Get this correct and the engine, will have some hope.
In a hurry, and just want to check the belt fast, or compression was found to be 80PSI, wide open throttle? yes, then see the next link.
Here are the two tests, for this belt, on one page, called Sneak a peak and the acid test.
Side topics, related:
THE ACID test and the sneak-a-peek checks.
Targets of Opportunity (Valve cover off and Tbelt cover )
See the TDC finder page here.
See the Crank shaft pulley removal page.
See the new Flywheel locking page ! Here.
See the new CRANK SNOUT DAMAGE side show (new)
Why does my belt drift? ( all the ways !)
THE Crank key is sheared ! , due to not following the TSB upgrade to 94 lb/ft ! at the 17mm crank bolt. (this TSB was published in 1996 !) Wake up?
Setting the crank pulley outer 6mm bolts to 50-90 lb/ft as many books show. ( any 6mm bolt stated torque is over 106 lb/inches , is WRONG)
ALL books state " The big bolt need not come off to change the belt"
But that is only true if the key is good, and many times it is not. Reality is a cruel mistress , no ?
The new TSB on said bolt is here for. (89-98). THE TSB TO READ, IS HERE
Some engines by Suzuki are interference types, not free running. Ask Suzuki 8 more cams used world wide. You ask Suzuki or do your own measurments !
If not up to speed on all engine basics , you can damage your motor. Start here.(off site, basics)
CAREFUL, people, change the Timing belt, water pump , (maybe, the cam / front crank seals) , at THIS 60,000 miles (100km) service point.
All 1.6 Liter motors: 8 Valves or 16v !
All belts fail for 1 reason, the owner did not do the 60,000 mile mandatory service.
DO NOT SKIP The Keyway or valve timing mark INSPECTION , if you do , the damage can cascade! A Fast test for a Sneak-a-peek of timing!
THE INFAMOUS CRANK KEY FAILURE:
Warning you need to inspect the crank shaft end and key way for damage.
Lets say you found the 17mm bolt torque below 50ft/lbs and you decided to look and you discover the below damage.
Personally I'd always look 1 time , when you first get the car.
See my images of the good and bad, and ugly below.
FACTOID: Just because the marks are perfect , don't mean a thing ! You must first look a the key.
With the Crank pulley removed , make sure the damper rubber has not slipped.
Look at the 2 index marks on the damper , are they aligned perfect? ( inner hub arrow to outer rim TDC notch?)
IF you have this damage , correct it first by reading the next linked page below.
CORRECTING Damaged Crank Pulley key ways?
Use a new crank snout bolt 17mm headed , from Suzuki for $9 and torque it to 94 ft/lbs per the TSB. (retro-active, year wise)
Do that, and the above will NEVER happen again.
If the bolt 17mm head , on the crank cog is too tight, then buy a TDC finder and find out the truth. (IPA7886) HOW to Use it is here.
Alt sources of TDC tool: (get the 10" version)
The crank cog ,if perfect, can fit tight, (it did new, maybe 25lbs force to remove it?) This is the tool, to make, to pull the cog.
Some motors , you need a new crank seal and has hidden damage.
It can take 150 -200ft lbs to break the 17mm main bolt free, use HEAT and a breaker bar with 20" extension pipe.
Expect Loctite and if true needs heat too.! (all mine are Loctite Red serviced)
Some Kick motors are modified , by welded Cogs to crank or even the 660 Loctite trick and set to a wrong TDC. Keep an open mind.
Tools: (besides full metric wrenches and 3/8 and 1/2 drive socket sets) A Minimum Set.
Feeler gauges for 8v valve lash .
17mm , 1/2" drive, deep wall socket.
A way to hold the crank from turning ( 5th gear, or flywheel locker (or Vise-grips(tm) large)
An inch/pound torque wrench. 0-200 inch is BEST ! for the small 6mm bolts.
A foot/pound torque wrench. (150 lb at least so you can do axle nuts, too)
Seal puller, if replacing them.
One tool to lock the cam up, for changing out the cam oil seal. (8v uses a drift pin, 16v needs special tool for cog gear locker)
( I use 10mm hex Allen key to lock it up CAM. on the 16v ( at the valve lifter rail plug,front of head)
never tension this timing belt like an accessory belt, always use the built in motor, tension device or the cam front bearing will self destruct & cascading fails....
My main Menu:
8 Valve timing belt procedures.
16 Valve timing belt procedures.
Air Conditioning entanglements solved here ( in the way?) ( and A/T tranny)
Factory procedures excerpts:
The full 91-95 8 valve FSM timing belt procedure is here.
All 4 pages (p13-16) zipped to 406k size. Use Unzip , XP unzip or 7zip to expand the photos and print them.
The full 92-98 16 valve FSM timing belt procedure is here.
All 4 pages (p1-3) zipped to 355k size. Use Unzip , XP unzip or 7zip to expand the photos and print them.
General and Common 8v/16v related support pages, are below.
Valve LASH PROCEDURES:
Here is my new 16v lash procedure, optional on 16v.
The 8v lash procedure is here, and are mandatory on 8v timing proc.
89-98 LASH specs(specifications).
New Timing belt kit, with new idler ( I recommend a Gates belt kit)
A Valve cover gasket for the 8valve motor. ( I do 16v because I check lash as this service point)
New quality OEM style water pump. (no no-name China pumps ,please fleabay trash is endless)
New seals ( I don't do them unless they leak or are over 120k old ) If I don't know , then they get Timken seals !
( the bottom seal must be installed with a protector or you will now have a non leaking seal , now leak)
( the top seal, you will need to lock the cam, on 8v a cam lock dowel pin is used on the 16v I use a 10mm Allen and lock wheel to rocker rail plug)
A new 17mm headed, Crank bolt torqued to 94 Ft/lbs is HIGHLY recommended.!
A new front cam belt cover gasket if old one is mangled or missing.
A new water pump belt, yes, get a Gator(tm) belt. It is tough. Some are 300k mile rated ! today.
The real long distance runners (me) , do all hoses at 10 year point. No hose ever lasts the life of engine. so replace it before you melt the engine. (warp head?)
Other related issues:
This document is no substitute for a real FSM manual on your exact car and exact engine. Suzuki has many ! engines.
Most mechanics with experience, replace the waterpump and both cam and crank seals at this service point. I highly recommend it.
and this part !
Rear Water pump to rear pipe o-ring: CS= 0.138 (3.5mm) ID=1.093 (27.8mm) [ I say 28mm ] Suz PN: 09280-28008 $1.50
Hard to find parts.
Before installing a seal, wrap the crank end and the cam end with mylar plastic ,or use an old soda bottle and cut out some plastic. ( PROTECTION )
Dont wreck 5 new seals, make a protector or buy one from Suzuki for $2 (no longer avail) , DO NOT IGNORE THIS ! USE TAPE !
Seal Removal tactics:
Punch a hole in the seal with a awl or ice pick (never use a drill) and then screw in a screw (sheet metal #6 or 8) and the pull the screw with a pair of pliers.
Pop out she comes. Never put the journal at risk, if you are not ready to do this , don't. Take a nap. rest, now get busy .
Pulling the oil pump to get at seal, is another whole kettle of fish , which might mean dropping the pan, and you don't want to do that.
New hint, the oil pump has pan dog pins , so it wont come out with out dropping the oil pan.
See more information on the Seal and crank key damage.
NEVER: remove the cam cog wheel , with OUT , not first marking the REAL keyway LOCATION on Cog wheel itself !
( this special information and warnings and hints, are NOT in any MANUAL)
FYI: The crank big bolt is now (96- retroactive) spec'd at 94 ft/lbs, subject to TSB! and is no longer 54 or 81 as any other manuals state!
All other sources of information, show the torque wrong. All ! this is because the publications DO NOT APPLY TSB UPDATES !
They have had 14 years to update there publications and have yet to do so.
All values from SUZ 91 FSM and 96 FSM for 16valve. SEE here for any revisions.
The cam pulley bolts 8mm changed to 12 ft/lbs in 1992 on all 8v and 16v motors
Full torque table is on my home page.
Do not confuse Inch pounds for Foot pounds, ( inch pounds is FT lbs X 12 )
Never torque something with a foot pound wrench using INCH POUND , SPEC. NEVER ! ( or its Helicoil time)
I recommend Loctite red on the Crank 17mm big bolt threads.
Pre-cautions: ( from the makers of belts and Suzuki)
Never turn the belt inside out.
or mix rounded cog belts with square [early], order carefully for your exact year and engine ! , all the parts.
Never oil/grease the belt or let dog chew it , LOL.
Never ever torque it like a Serpentine belt . It is not .
Observe belt direction marks (cheap ones have arrows, from China) Try Gates, Dayco, ACDELCO, BECK/ARNLEY. to name a few.
Never run an old belt , but if you must, run it in the same direction (oops , you forgot to mark it?)
Never turn the crank or cam gear with belt off , on 16v. (a tad is ok) LOCK THE CAM PER FSM.
Do not jam wedges in the belt to pulley junctions as a trick to remove pulley bolts.
Do not rotate crankshaft CounterClockwise. (because the bolt may get loose , wrecking the proper torque on this critical part)
Do not use cam gear bolt to spin the crankshaft.
Do not forget to paint all the index marks before taking off any gear or pulley. "white paint them"
The 17mm bolt on the crank need not be removed. but a keyway inspection is RECOMMENDED. (skipping this step , makes for sad days)
Do not use more than 150 lbs/ft of torque to remove the 17mm crank bolt. if it is tight, then use heat , it may have type Loctite applied!
Air tools can strip the crank snout, ON or off ! If previously Loctite'ed, this bolt , it must be heated and gently removed. 17mm large head bolt.
TDC finder: (remove all spark plugs by blowing out wells first and then remove them with 5/8s Inch Spark plug socket , a 1/4 rubber hose will extract them.
if they do no agree then the key way is mangled. !
Cog, is belt drive cog wheel.
CW is Clock Wise, CCW, is CCWis counter clock wise ( anti CW for Brits)
and the last question? is the bolt a reverse thread, answer NO.
The FSM says never turn crank CCW with wrench , this is just so you don't loosen the bolt accidentally. ( no danger of that with spark plugs out)
If you do manage to accidentally loosen this bolt that means NOBODY READS THE TSB ! the #1 killer of all Kick motors !
Last all printed books have the torque wrong for this bolt ! (cept 96-1/2 FSM's and newer) YES, YOUR HAYNES IS WRONG !
|rev,19: date 4-9-2010