How to remove the crank pulley cog? (or the inspection of same)
All 1.6L motors are the same. (1.8L and above have a chain)
Do YOU have a new car to your shop? See the test, below. A never seen before, car?, You are a skeptic (good !) This page is a simple audit inspection. Day 1, of ownership.
This is only manditory with a new crank seal. and never at belt change. Timing belt. (but I do this 1 time , at first ownership)
Removing the accessory fan belts can make this job more easy, skip this if just doing a bolt inspection.
ALL WAYS KNOWN TO Lock the flywheel :
If a 5 speed transmission. put it into 5th gear, apply the hand brake and then chock the rear wheels so the car can not roll and set the hand brake hard. (sure, 4wd High engaged)
The drive shafts will wind up a bit, its ok, and even protects the crank end threads , this spring action)
If the bolt turned CCW , will not come off with 150 to 200 ft/lbs applied torque its time for the impact gun, (I never put the bolt back with any impact gun. many have , and ripped the threads out the end of the cranks shaft)
17mm Deep wall socket 1/2"drive and a beaker bar. (many find the bolt at 25 pounds or dead loose. a sad moment)
When you start, put your mind set like this, "did the PO use loctite here, or an impact gun or OMG both" Then proceed.
If I have even the slightest suspicion of loctite , I apply heat to the bolt. Some grades of loctite need it very hot , up to 300F.
If you can't get it off , then leave it. (the seal good there)
Grab your BEAM torque wrench 100- 150 ft/lb rated. (the beam works forward and reverse !)
The bolt is a RIGHT HAND TREAD. "righty tighty lefty loosy" for noobs... RHT ! CCW is the OFF direction. If I can't get it to move with my beam, I switch to a breaker bar.
This is what I call DAY 1:
Attach a 17mm deep wall socket to the front of the pulley bolt. Apply CCW rotation (reverse) to the wrench and see where the bolt breaks free? CCW = Counter clockwise rotation.
If greater than 50 lbs. then all may be well , if below 50 lbs, then the key is most probably wrecked. (My Audit procedure !) I invented the 50lb rule (it's the lowets spec ever used by Suz, ever!)
if over 50 set it to 94, if over 95 leave it alone and and do the Sneak-A-peak test below.
if the bolt is loose, you do have damage, not if, but has damage. see here, for the full story.
If the bolt is 10 - 49 ft./lbs it may still be loose , and you are only seeing rust on the threads, as the resistance? Remove the bolt and check the key. Be a Skeptic.!
A fast test NOW, of the basic timing (finds slipped belts and the Acid tests stripped cam and crank keys.) the Sneak-A-peek test.
if going all the way? proceed...
I return you now to the tbelt index for your car, on the full details on timing belt service and the cogs so you can peel the onion deeper.
Do not FAIL to set the crank cog to 94 ft/lbs as the Suzuki and GM TSB mandates. Page 2 All published books get this WRONG.
For all Suzuki related part numbers ? See my crank snout damage page with a parts table ?
Photo #1 (1991 8valve TBE 1.6L engine. , used up to 1995, 89/90 looks the same except the throttle body details)
As you can see taking the radiator you , makes this a very easy job, and for sure if the 17mm crank bolt is real tight? (RHT) then impact it off. (I never impact gun any bolt back on to, any crankshaft snout)
Note key damage and how I found true TDC very very carefully and used Loctite 660 to repair it. ( I used a TDC finder tool, etc....)
Below, is home make cog puller, if your crank is still factory fit new, it will not just fall off. (some use the still on pulley and a wood (never metal) pry bar to work this off end of shaft, pulley still mounted.))
rev 2 ++++ 4-8-2011