Engine ignition timing procedures for  G16 to J18/20 up to H27 engines.               
100% (USA/Canada) Centric no U.K.   57B distributors!)
A.k.a: Dizzy "popular slang"
See early
non EFI, Samurai here.
See V6 here.

The best tools to use are here (low cost)     And many others here.

G16 engines section:
See my warning (new). ("The cam  cog marks are #4, not #1 firing !" if exposed and looking there...)
We run only 3 distributors in the USA,  89/90 8V, 92-95 16v and 1996-98 16Valve engines, the 1.8L and up have no distributors at all they run D.I.S. systems.
All systems can be quick timed or validated per the below:
You only need to attach the strobe light to number 1 (front) cylinder and  set the timing freeze jumper (DLC conn. in engine bay), then point the strobe to the scale, and turn the
dizzy to the correct time, clearly stated under hood. (left side of the scale is advanced !)  BTDC is left of zero each mark is 2 degree's.
Idling a HOT Engine at 800 RPM is the rule. The TPS idle switch  must signal IDLE or the freeze feature fails, causing the timing to bounce.
If you discover, that the timing is found way off, then, most likely , the timing belt has slipped.
Just like pappy did in 1968. Before that, it was a neon light.  (the timing spec is on my tuneup page)    see your  hood sticker for TDC factory spark spec.
Suzuki spec. data   PAGE 1,         PAGE 2:

Once set, you remove the freeze  jumper and make  sure the  advance goes off scale, as you race the engine up to 3000 to 3500 RPM.
If it don't advance correctly (going left of the scale), the ECU is stuck in limphome mode. or the 89/90 dizzy advance weights are stuck. Starting in 1991 the ECU does all advance.
My 96' can advance to 42 degrees, easy with a fast right foot.

The below is all the heart ache and pits falls, when folks take it all apart, and  can't get it back, right.  (vast pit falls exist) like the Haynes/GM books shows the dizzy turning backwards.
The classic,  cheap $2 rotor can be put on 3 ways, a blunder.... no OEM part does that !, but that clone part  , surely can.... I cover that below.

The freeze jumper, freezes the timing advance (no such feature, in the pure mechanical dizzy of the 1989/90 models).   How to find TDC ?  Top dead center #1 firing.

The below 3 USA G16, Distributors are Unique  The 56Bxx is the Suzuki Dizzy P/N stamped on the side of it.
8 Valves 91-95 (dizzy 56Bxx)                                     8 Valves 89/90' (dizzy 60Axx)



All year: 16 Valves.(dizzy 58Bxx)

NO DIZZY here, just a CAM-CMP "DIS" , 1.8L Suzuki sport is 5 BTDC with the freeze jumper in place. Hot motor, TPS TP pin at 0.5vdc

Before removing the ROTOR , use Liquid-Paper(tm) and mark 3 places,  One: mark which CAP tower is #1 , two: mark the Disty base rim. where the rotor points and last mark the center shaft of the rotor that has the pointer of rotor aligned.
Failure of the last step  the engine will not run, because the rotor was put on wrong, and has 3 ways when buying junk rotors.

Warnings: G16 : Stop buying Junk tune up parts and for sure $2 ROTORS!
1:  The  Haynes /GM manuals  , show you how to time the engine WRONG and it will not run.!  (shows wrong rotor rotations and spark wire lay down)
2: Someone (not everyone) is selling junk Distributor rotors, ones with out the metal insert "CLIP" on the bottom.  STOP, DON'T DO THAT !
The Missing  the steel CLIP allows the Rotor to be intalled 3 ways.   Do not buy cheap $2 junk rotors !
Best to worst (IMHO):
Buy, NGK, Bosch,  AC-DELCO,  Denso , Beck Arnley , Mitsubishi , , SMP Std. motor products (BWD- Borg Warner Div. ).Airtex, (no name junk here)

BUY TOP NAME BRANDS, do not buy the junk sold in low and cheap (popular) Franchises.  I will not show the names, but they don't sell top brands list above .
The cheap rotor installs 3 ways, 1 works the other 2 cause HORRID misfire, or no starts. 
DO NOT USE ROTORS MISSING THE METAL KEY SEEN BELOW
!
Bosch promises it to fit (see their web page) and I for one, know that it does. Make sure it inserts ALL THE WAY down , the rotor to shaft !
"Fine tooled" means fits solid and locks ONE WAY.
Bosch says: " Finely-tooled metal mounting sleeve (Asian)" Bosch   Pn: pre96: 04273 ,  96/97: 04300  <<<  Bosch knows this issue, see?
I get my parts from NAPA and buy BOSCH or other top brands.  ROCKAUTO SELLS many good brands, see the HEART Icon's there? (those parts are known good)
A good rotor will index only ONE WAY !
Look at the rotor, tip must  align like this on the 8v  (you're looking here, because you bought a POS rotor, huh?.

Look at the rotor, tip must align like this on a 16v


The Ignition parts slide show.

Make a Distributor Tester 91+ , DYI

No Spark ? Troubleshooting ?
Warning for GM 1996-98 FSM owners (gross errors in FSM)
Replace wire set ,wires 1 by 1 , so you don't set the firing order wrong 1,3,4,2 is correct.
If not timed right, the car will not start. SEE THIS ! click below image  to zoom the  photo .
Warning ! If you have the Cam Cog wheel exposed, it is easy to get confused,  the cam cog is made in 3 types and 4 confusing marks.! Do not guess!
If you have any of these cogs at 12pm, you are timing to #4 firing. (wrong) "60A , E, or titty spoke up", are all #4 firing, or gawd forbid the the Illegal "I" mark up.
So, where does that mark go above? well it goes DOWN, at 6PM (#1 fires down) , the cam mark fires on #1 with DOWN ! never UP.
Turn the motor so #1 valves are loose.  look at the cam cog, see 60A/E/titty down?  there is your proof.
Do not time the dizzy, before getting the cam timed right. The dizzy is timed last, it's at the END of the mechanical chain.
The below shows the crank pulley, not the cam cog.
 




The  all V6 engines, have an  adjustable CMP sensor until 2005 USA.  Here is the firing order.,  H20,25/27 and larger, and up to 2010?.  USA !

The H20 v6 is not sold here, and all have a DLC connector under hood, (no photos yet, waiting for one)
DLC = Diagnostic link (logic) connector, most cars have 2,  under dash ABS+TCM and under hood for timing, and idle duty cycle checks.
Those DLC have pins to get ECU and ABS and TCM FLASH CODES, DTC ERRORS.  but I digress. this my FREEZE PAGE.
This Non USA H20 , inteference engine, may have pin 4 (D) ground and pin 5(E) test switch terminal (freeze)
To set timing on this engine, find the DLC in one of 3 places (battery, right head light shell or  left strut tower (left hand drive drives side)
The DLC has 6 pins, and has a rubbler cover boot, unlike any other connector on car.  The cover gives that away.
Jump the 2 pins and timing freezes.  (4 to 5)
On a hot running ,non jumpered engine, spark varies 11 to 15 degrees at idle this is 100% NORMAL and lower smog and saves tons of fuel .
The ECU controls timing advance at all times,  with internal ECU TABLES that, vary by RPM and load, and engine temperature, etc.
The engine can be static, timed to 5 degree's BTDC  with all spark dead. or at idle with timing frozen
If you you discover the CMP sensor will not move far enough to reach  5 BTDC, THAT MEANS YOU TIME THE CAM WRONG.
STOP, DO not bend over the head valves, STOP correct the cam timing,now.
This is and interference engine , like most DOHC are.
OK, one more trick some engines have no timing markes, but one,  that one mark is 0 degrees TDC,, so you MUST use a dial back timing light to set timing.
Sorry, that rule is a PITA. yes. Think that nice retired Suzuki engineer for that, and the other dumb rule later, must have scan tool.
I think no other site covers the above facts. A real SQ-420 FSM does if found.


The USA V6
The H27, started with SUZUKI 1999  and is OBD2 compliant in all ways.
The first years retain the origional DLC UNDER HOOD. (A BLESSING)
 MOST have adjustable CMP sensors (SLOTS + SCREWS), the freeze mode, ended (D to E jump) after 2005. is Timing "not changable"
The 2006 Suzuki , is the first use of the fixed CMP sensor, a totally new sensor.
In fact the cam sensor and crank are unified the same , both black plastic with 1 screw and is FIXED.
The Chev Tracker 1999 was the last year, to have a freeze timing jumper plug pin set (DLC (pin D to E )under hood.
Mandating the use of suzuki scan tools no shop on earth has. (brillant ,huh?)
Some DLC are at the left front strut top.
Chevy Trackers 2000 to 2004 ,  only a factory scan tool, will freeze timing to set timing. (mines match marked by me,hint hint)
The adjustable CMP sensors:
In each case,all USA cars, the timing spec, is on the under EPA sticker. Open hood, and look up. (under hood)
These USA rules vary by GM Geo (aka chevy tracker) or Suzuki Vitara names.
I hope my page helps you find your DLC.
I see top web sites, telling folks in say, Australia , how to time an H20  1995 using, pages off the USA Tracker, H27 , 2004 year.  Sadly so wrong.

No dash tachometer?  (2WD sad news, yes)   I need a tachometer for 2 reasons, setting the spark timing, setting idle duty cycle (idle speed)
All ways are below:   See the brown wire signal here. A1. an 80v plus there.

1: A Timing light with tacho feature built in.  Just $23 bucks at Walfart.  Equus 3551
2: Optical tach point and shoot , works on all machines on earth, even a drill press.  The tools is sold everywhere, for $15 bucks.
3: A Tacho tool connects to brown wires. safe.  At this point A1. 
4: Same tacho tool ,#3 connects to coil minus (ignitor) I'd never do that, it risks expensive parts)

Good electronic tachometer tools, will trigger off a plus pulse or negative and the best do both , but many do not work right. (sad but true) So what works , is  trial and error.
The old tools in the attic (or fleabay) never knew (sic) which of 100s ignition systems came in the future. (got COPS? use #1)

DLC HUNT?    The Suzuki wild goose chase or WW2 revenge?
Under the hood, the engine compartment. 
The only  4 or 6 pin connector with a rubber boot cover/cap.   the DLC side with a notch is pin 1 side.  (tang, notch or lock base)
Old Vitara/ZSidekicks and Trackers  , in front of battery. (In USA 1996 moved to behind, right front headlight rear shell and in 1999 to left front strut tower top.)
Right means , drivers right, sitting in their driver seat.  Thus LHD , left hand drive, means steering is on the LEFT.
Baleno , inside hood bay, fuse/relay box.
Jimny , behind glove box.(cab) (odd duck this)
Early Grand Vitara , next to ignition coil,  but most of ours (USA) are on LEFT front  strut tower. we have COP coils  now so....
Many 1989 early Samurai (and others) it's in the cab fuse box, marked Diagnostic fuse. seen here.
I hope I end this wild hunt.




Super thanks, to Mr. Gorky for INPUTS! 

I added, The early non EFI Samurai  Distributor cap rotor rules here,  and  the view port , but Is all redundant to the full FSM here read chapter 8 .





ver.7