Pulling that USA SIDEKICK 96' Motor 1.6 Liter 16v. 5speed tranny      (the full FSM pages are  END OF THIS PAGE)
And Trackers too:
See  A/C compressor and condensor  tricks  and  A/T tranny comments added.  < new !
My assumption is , pulling motor and leaving tranny behind.  Others pull it all at once.  I'm using a 2000lb full engine hoist.
 What do the motor parts weigh?

See my Engine short block ,rebuild here.

This page works for 8v valve too, but no need to pull the top induction plenum 8 bolts. (98 year this is impossible , no bolts)
On the 98 , remove the whole intake manifold, first. The only reason, is to get to the difficult to reach, fuel banjo bolt, at back of fuel RAIL.
See my 16v  motor pull slide show.

All directions here,  are from the  drivers perspective, seated in drivers seat.   (LEFT is drivers seated perspective , LHD(left-hand-drive) SAE stds.
{ I am replacing a clutch  , no fighting tranny and transfer case, under car, on your back and  today I am removing a cracked block 1997)
, the below works and  is effective, on any air conditioned car.  see photo proof.>  NO EVACUATION of A/C loop  !

Safety step 1:  Unscrew  the gas cap 1 turn or expanding fuel will flood you garage , after step 16 happens. or remove the cap an put it on the dash top.
Remove the dip stick, so you don't break it in half.
Never pull the head until the water pump is off, so as to keep all that antifreeze out of the engine oil side.  
Trick one, pull motor with intake installed on 16v , you need to pull the front harness connector to fuel injectors. Located just below the front of fuel rail, see slide show.
Trick two: pull the induction plenum 8 bolts, on 16v and gain access to the rear mounted rail fuel source banjo and harnesses and small hoses.
Trick three: the 16 engine can be pulled with inducton fully in place, if you drop the "Y" under mount bracket.  < this brace is FRAME ATTACHED !
One liners:   ( you use tape and mark all small hoses before pulling the motor ,  standard practices) "duct tape and pen ?"

Please read the fuel warning here first.
  1. Relieve all fuel pressure, by running motor and pulling fuel pump relay. if motor dont run, have lots of rags and do wear goggles ,please, "out doors is best "
  2. Disconnect battery Negative  LUG FIRST !. and Pos. terminals , in that order!   best is pull battery OUT.
  3. Remove HOOD.  ( put index marks at bolts / bracket, for ease of later replacement and alignment.)
  4. Remove the INTAKE MAIN DUCT PIPES, and if 16v the MAF.  8v has bolts hidden under a plastic cover.
  5. Drain RAD fluid , at bottom left is drain cock.
  6. Remove both large RADiator hoses. (top and bottom)
  7.  Disconnect A/T RAD oil cooler hoses.
  8. First loosen the nuts on the end of the waterpump FIRST, then when belts are off , the fan will unbolt easy.
  9. Remove the loosen all Alternator pivots and adjuster and then pivot alternator inward.  The water pump pulley is now loose and free.
  10. Remove the fan from the WP pulley . Remove all RAD shroud screws and remove the fan, shroud as one or these 2 items and RAD all together?
  11. Remove the Radiator ,with the shroud and fan by removing 2 Radiator bolts on the top sides. (protect the rad with hardboard from A/C condenser screws)
  12. On A/C cars and loosen A/C compressor  bolt on top adjuster and pivot the A/C compressor in- board.
  13. On non-A/C cars, loosen the P/S belt by .(take off P/S belt first by loosening the bottom center bolt on pump ,thru pulley hole) on A/C cars the P/S pump is fixed.
  14. Remove Power steering pump (option)  from block. (leave lines intact)  after removing all accessory belts.
  15. If A/C , remove compressor mount from motor and tie it back.
  16. At fire wall , right, remove both cab heater core hoses at fire wall ( I cut them , or you risk core tube damage! WARNING) On 16v you can remove a hose behind the head.
  17. At rear of right intake manifold remove1 large vacuum hose to brake booster metal line. and 3speed vacuum modulator hose, if present.
  18. Remove 8v fire wall  MAP sensor hoses, or EGR MAP connector if 16v
  19. blank
  20. Remove the EGR VSV 2 valve connector.  (it's locked, press the lever)  Just free the little harness from the components, here.
  21. Lots of details to this part but just remove all wire connections and connectors from the engine.  1 by 1 and never force the LOCKED connectors.
  22. Remove the grounds at manifold right rear (96+) or many of  these grounds  mentioned here, on older cars (obvious)..
  23. Remove 16v intake manifold "Y"  brace (right) and then remove all starter solenoid wires. and the harness from under inake to injector harness , front.!
  24. Remove starter. (and the battery  NEG. wire, huge black wire on top starter  mount bolt) and the Solenoid key wire quick disconnect.
  25. Disconnect both throttle ,and  A/T kick down (not on M/T),and clutch cables.
  26. Remove fuel return line (2 simple screw clamps) at right bottom of engine ,near frame rail, left side.  16v is on top near rail , 8v as at right frame rail.
  27. At this same point , remove fuel fitting  pressure line  , pipe fittings. (capture any extra fuel in a rag and take it out doors, promptly) Wrap the banjo in plastic with a rubber band.
  28. Disconnect O2 sensor at left fire wall plug.
  29. Remove EVAP canister and disconnect. its hoses , lower right side of  fender.  In fact. disconnect all vacuum hoses to the engine.
  30. Disconnect the 3 main engine electric connectors  , on 16v there is front injector harness plug. unplug it. Leave the Intake harness attached to the injectors.
  31. This removes all wires to all sensors on the right side and left of motor . Including oil sender , Alternator plug and power feed.
  32. Blank
  33. All harness are pulled free of the engine , except the injector harness on 16v can stay on fuel rail, but must be disconnected at the end.
  34. Place tranny jack under tranny and balance the weight of it. Jack up the tranny as high as it will go , but do not let Distributor hit fire wall. ( I remove the Distrib)
  35. Remove all 6 outboard side engine mount bolts (top side, 3 per side)  The motor will have to be jogged to the right and up to get 1 bolt on the left under steering shaft.
  36. The 5sp and 4speed tranny have tranny to engine side mounted bars, 3speed NOT.  remove them.
  37. Remove the tin tranny plate on the lower front of the bell housing. Last remove the 2 large NUTS on the bell housing.
  38. The 3/4speed A/T tranny must have the clutch flange bolts (x3) removed these through  the bottom access cover. 
  39. Remove the exhaust bolts at the collector tip flange. On some cars, you can remove the pipe into the CAT if the former bolts are frozen.
  40. If above is impossible , then unbolt exh. manifold, at head and disconnect exh. brace NUTs, at bottom of Manifold to Engine mount. Tie manifold to left side of body.
  41. Remove air cleaner box with MAF.   (this protects the delicate  $$$ MAF sensor)
  42. ( attach Crane to motor Eye HEAD PADS (factory parts)) and lift motor until it floats.  Use  a chain saddle. 
  43. Remove the transmission/engine side braces if present.  4/5SP has these.
  44. The motor is now almost ready to pull,  Remove all bell housing bolts , bottom first then top.  leave the top 2 bolts  for last.
  45. blank
  46. If pulling  tranny/engine/transfer case as one, the trannys must be drained and Xfr case, and remove all attachements to same, including prop shafts front and rear.
  47. Not to mention the cross members to pull all  tranny's
  48. Motor is now free to be removed.  Lift and slide it forward, until 5sp pilot shaft clears flywheel.  you must balance the motor to tranny loads, so it can come free.
  49. If an A/T tranny the fluid clutch was disconnected at  step 38.
  50. Slide motor forward off tranny front pinion shaft.  Motor is free, so lift it up, and out.
  51. On an A/T car the water pump tangles in the A/C top line ,  so I took off the water pump. (this should be step 1 for many reaons.)
  52. The rubber Engine mounts kept me for sliding motor forward, so I removed the single nut on top and slide the mounts out.  Now motor is truly free.
Reverse the above procedure to install the engine.  READ chapter 6A page 8 to 12.  The above, is just a PRIMER !
  Use the FSM re-adjust all settings destroyed in the motor pull,  Throttle cable,  clutch cable or A/T shifter cable.

Pit  falls:  
Not removing side braces on tranny.
Not removing A/T clutch flange  bolts.
Not gaining access to the rear FUEL rail for the main tank fuel feed banjo removal.
Not disconnecting all things connected (this should be obvious)
Not protecting distributor from hitting fire wall (remove it or use FSM stated wood blocker)
Do not damage the harnesses, tie them all back , those connectors are not sold in stores.
Not disconnecting exhaust manifold brace. to frame mount.
Not tilting  transmission to get at at bell housing top bolts
Or if tranny stays ,not having proper tools,  1/2 drive , a universal joint driver, and a 24" extension to get the top bolts on BELL.  (I use a 8" and 18" extension stacked)
If you think this is hard, try a JEEP.  LOL !
Crushing the TPS, or the injector connector , front right, is a real max PAIN.
You are working in a pit, and the tranny falls on you , in said pit, and  that be, a pit fall.  LOL

For transmission support , you must improvise,  using the following ideas.
A real tranny jack . barrow or rent them , Harbor freight has them cheap.
A stack of wood.  ( Key Stone Cops style?)
A trolley jack holding the front of tranny up.
 I put a board  2x4" stud, from the front cross member and to the rear cross member.  See that here!  so  I could tow and move car around lot.

I'm sure I've missed something. ( 2 motors, 3 transmissions. , sure)

Important things to replace at this point.

Total new clutch , and lube up the clutch fork pivot shaft bushings. Check for excessive wear on this bushings.
New rear main seal.  (if it was leaking at all) Must pull flywheel.)
A new Pilot bearing and throw out bearing.
All new hoses under intake manifold , so easy to change now, do not skip this.  using factory molded hoses.
Warning: Gates hoses don't fit.  (fine print says,  must  be "cut to fit ", oops they don't and one looks like off a school bus !)
Make sure fly wheel is not scored, grooved or galled. 

New Pan gasket if old one leaks.  (drain motor oil first , ok?)  if 96 and newer there must never be a pan gasket, only RTV or the CPK WILL FAIL.

New Distributor  o-rings (infamous common leak points)  (one on housing ,other on Distributor shaft) [must be re-timed]

Consider a new timing belt , just sit on an old orange crate and change it with, no back pain.   Yah !

Torque front crank 17mm bolt to 94 ft/lbs ( use vise grips at fly wheel or make a simple metal locker)

Get serial number off left side rear flange now, write it down, (check letter code for engine year )
This can be handy later, when buying parts.


Photo 1:
Make a space in front of motor like this photo shows.

In my estimate, you can change a clutch 2 times faster with this procedure.  4 hrs. total, not over 8 hours under car fighting the tranny and XFR casing and prop shafts. and lube.
No draining anything, cept RAD.  ( that cuts 2 drain and fill steps, none of which are fun or easy , at home,  hint, microwave your GL4/5 lube,so it pours in much easier..)
Rad is way easier to drain and fill then any tranny or transfer case !!  Transfer case is a PITA to reFILL ! In car. (and must be drained before propshaft is pulled)
Fill the 5sp tranny like this.
No difficult tranny alignment when you put it back in.   The Engine crane does all the hard work.  (with a tranny jack too)
No pulling seats to get center console free and shift boots off , etc.
Only the 2 heater hoses need by sacrificed.  (I bet they are bad anyways!)

Always: mark all hoses and wires remove if it is not obvious where they go.All USA cars have vacuum map under hood.
and put all bolts and hardware fasteners in jars and cans and label them.   or punch holes in cardboard and stuff screws in them and label them.
Not losing and mixing parts , pays back in saved time , overall.  (some parts are specially  hardened parts and must not be mixed)
I put bolts in sandwich bags and mark them with a Sharpie pen.

With the engine out , you an put a 2x4" board from the front mount to the rear tranny mount  (holds up tranny)and the car can be moved outside your property for a proper pressure washing.  I just push it out side my Garage and pressure wash it all. ( with plastic sandwich bags protecting my connectors held with rubber bands..)

Secret 1:
The P/S pump adjustment bolt, is invisible,  see here.
 It is on the 6pm lower part , front and only if the pulley hole is at 6pm., facing rear.
Secret 2: This same bolt on A/C cars is moved to the fixed position on the P/S pump, at  7pm. facing rear.

Secret 3: fill tranny from front edge of fire-wall with a hose and funnel , . ( heat the GL4 lube in microwave  2minutes or hot water dip first)  using a hose to the side fill hole. 

On A/C cars install motor with out water pump, or it hits A/C lines on top.
Then install WATER Pump after and then Timing belt then fan pully  and fan, next the shroud , and last the radiator.

Tools: STD. Shop tools /spanners , and an engine hoist or crane.  ( chain hoist , 2 fold pulley rigging system (sailor talk), or a chain fall.)
1/2 impact wrench helps for the the most stubborn large bolts.
Both a  200 inch/lb and 200 Ft/lb torque wrench.

Buy items, before you start:
All Exh. manifold gaskets, on head  side and collector tip side , just in case.  Get the full Felpro kit, not , china junk.
New hoses. ( at least do the hard ones , now that motor is out, under intake manifold)
New (if M/T) clutch. (Pressure plate, disc,, new pilot bearing and throw out bearing)
New head,  rebuilding the  head is far  easier now,  with motor out of car.  (the Felpro head gasket says , this side up.  see it, do not block the head gallery OIL hole)
New rear main seal, get the fancy upgrade Viton seal.
New front seals on crank and cam?
New RAD fluid.   RAD = Radiator for short.
new belts?  do the CAM belt now.  "Gates Timing belt kit is best"
Motor cleaner.
Nitrile gloves?


YMMV , your mileage may vary.
Other methods can be faster , a PIT.  a Lift.  or on stands, but I can pull a motor real fast. 2nd time 2times faster.

My whole page tries to do better thant, the FSM , the FSM covers it here on page 56 ,  volume 1 , chapter 7/7A.
1996 full FSM

rev 5.  4-16-2010  ,rev6 7-25-2011 (add A/T issues and full actual  fsm pages.)