Motor cranks, but you suspect fuel injection problems? 
         No start, for Dummies  (Just 1 page for , No starts) 
This page assumes car was running not long ago.  (gas is good, battery is charged  ,etc)  for other No Starts look here.              For NO Crank, look here.

The order below,  is by , most likely to fail and proper order.  (3)
The format here, is to find which sub-system is failing quickly..  (bad motor, bad spark, or bad fueling , in that order !) Nothings changed since 1861  Nikolaus Otto first motor ; The Same 3 fail modes.
Each  line below is "if above was ok"
If you error in your testing and get nowhere, then start again at the top and do the tests over.    A Typical motor.
Preconditions:  CEL comes on KEY ON, and  flashes 12 with diagnostic jumper or fuse or wire is inserted into the DLC (pre96') , or the  Scan tool  shows no stored and valid DTCs.(1996 and newer cars, USA)
A tuned up car is ALWAYS assumed.       FIRST ! CHECK ALL FUSES FIRST ( do not look at them,measure them , looking misses cracks , use an ohm meter or battery power test light.)

 If the Head lamps are dead, or Cig lighter, or other major power loss symptoms? , fix THAT first.

The order below is based on the 3 bad's in red above and in order of easy to harder testing. This page can not be perfect as there are 2 engines and missing dash Tachometers.  but here is my shot, at a 1 page list (printable)
Bad motor is the first test "compression", but  I put it  at step 8 due to harder to do.  NO TOOLS ? NO JOY ! ONLY FATE dictates TRUTH.  My list assumes you can spend $50 on tools. 
Really, step 25 is first. (the tachmeter check) (2wd don't have a tacho meter in dash,. so ..... us a scope ? look for code DTC41s?) (6)
The 8v is unique, if  I look and see my TBI injector is dead, out comes the NOID and step 25 is checked.
  1. No spark? check spark at each spark plug and at the Induction coil its self (below 96 year) [96 is first year of  Coil in Distributor.]  If 1.8L or bigger check at each COP COIL.
  2. Did you know, that a $15 timing stobe lamp can check to see if timing is near 5degree's before TDC, in 5min flat off spark wire 1 (front)?  and if way off, the timing belt slipped, (forgot the 60k mile service you did !)
  3. Check for, if spark plug tips are wet or dry.  ?  (if the spark wells are flooded with oil {shorting out the plug} a new valve-cover gasket must replaced, 60k skipped x2}  A new spark plug the tip is dry and white/tan
  4. If wet , unflood motor using OP GUIDE secret WOT unflood mode. Crank engine with throttle foot wide-open-throttle.  this "WOT" ) act kills all fuel injections cranking.  . Unflood trick 1.
  5. If  all sparks are wet check  Ignition timing  , if way off Check Cam timing (look down oil filler hole ?see if cam spins cranking?) 
  6. If  the 16v MPI engine has 1 wet spark plug (good spark) ,stinking of raw fuel suspect a leaky injector problem,   The 8v TBI you can look at the Injector to see if it leaks, at just key off, or is not injecting at all. cranking?
  7. If dry , then  try test fuel  , I use an instant start spray can test fuel , attach the straw and put straw in the EVAP  VSV nipple of the front plenum chamber.(nipple #21) hose off
  8. If dry, at spark plugs , & motor dont start with test fuel, then you need to check compression on the motor. 170 PSI HOT on all 4 , minimum and at W.O.T. (wide open throttle) a tad less cold. 
  9. IF test fuel passes and motor sounded strong, as it spun up fast, then down and died, then the motor is probably good.  If not, a compression test is mandatory.  If all 4 cyl. are low PSI, the Tbelt slipped. (<=90 psi is bad, 150 or more is good)
  10. If  motor sounds good, see if fuel pump is active , by listening at tank filler cap, as someone else keys on the ignition. The pump will buzz, 1991-98  for 3 seconds only each key on. (1)  < these are foot notes !
  11. If the pump don't buzz check the power feed to pump, If the pump does buzz ? open hood &  pinch fuel return line at FPregulator , feeling  for swelling, at key on for 3 seconds (1). (16v is hard to do this)
  12. If no swell cranking, or can't reach it,, remove the fuel  return line at FPreg and attached a spare hose to the FPreg nipple and other end to a bucket (coffee can) and key on for 3 seconds and see if it squirts briskly.(1)  (5)
  13. If the hose don't squirt, than that buzzing pump is dead.  any flow at all really tells little about pressure on the rail ,  only fuel pressure tells the truth of this test. (you need near 30PSI  to run EFI at all times)
  14. If some fuel squirts , this don't mean much, as  only the real 30 PSI pressure, can run a engine proper. (30 psi running) , now is the time to use a real fuel gage. and that fails check for 12vdc at the pump.
  15. Many DIY don't have a $20 fuel pressure gauge (from HF) so skip to NOID tests first (a $1 tool) if this is you then do the injector coil ohms test,  ($15 tool) and the NOID. below.
  16. We have good fuel pressure and now, so  we attack the Injector(s) , on the 16v (only), one side of the injector is  at 12vdc wtih the key ON,   The ECU grounds the other side , to inject. (2)
  17. While the fuel pressure gage is attached , check to see if pressure holds to 25psi after the key is released., if it don't, the Injector(s) are leaking. ( or other things are bad.. for sure !)
  18. If you suspect dead injectors or leaking ones. The above leak down, finds the leaker's.  The next test is key on, and make sure each injector has 12vdc on both sides of each injector. (16v only) (never 8v)
  19. If the hot side (16v) is 12.5vdc then all injectors must be 12.5v on all pins. (8 pins total)  If not the ECU is bad or the injector wires are bad.  (measure to ground with Volt meter) (16v only)  (8v requires a NOID light or DSO test)
  20. If this test above passes or fails , check that  each injector has about 10 ohms, at its coil pins (unplugged).  if open, then injector is not serviceable. (8valve coil is 1ohm) (do this key off, all injector(s) unplugged)
  21. If this test passes, connect a NOID lamp to each injector, key on only, and all NOIDs must  not be glowing !, (4) If any glow it's a bad ECU or wires.  (works for 8v and 16v) Full set of NOID
  22. No glow, then crank and all NOID's will  flash  (test one at time, 16v)  they may  seem to stay lighted equally cranking (a strong battery) across each injector,1 to 4 .  The single The 8v looks like this.
  23. You can listen to each injector for clicking, during cranking. No clicks can be a bad injector , bad ECU or bad wires to same.  (stethoscope works easy , a $5 tool, the best tool as always is DSO)
  24. If the NOID is dead (16v: only one dead, that is a bad ecu or bad wires between ) if the TBI NOID tests fails that is a BAD ECU or the 2 inputs are failing. (A1 pin, or TPS pin B stuck high , <=2v is good, near 4v is bad)
  25. If the Dash I/P cluster tachometer is dead, there will be no injection. This guage dead, means Pin A1(8v) or A8(16v) are dead  ! Fix this first, do not replace the ECU if this fails.  (6) (6a)
  26. The ECU Throws, 41 DTC or  dead OBD2  RPM on 96+ cars) Do not replace any ECU if you see, DTC 41/42 cranking for 3 -5 seconds or in new 96+ cars, see the OBD2 scanner with P0340s or RPM stuck at zero  cranking.
  27. If all tests pass,  good motor, good spark and NOID passes , injector coil ohms good., and Fuel pressure passes,  then you have a bad INJECTOR.
  28. If you have not found the injector problem yet, then send them to $19 for  test , clean and balance.  NO, don't buy a new  set of injectors, they can be serviced if the coils are not open. (great hope)

(1):  On 89/90 Sidekicks the  pump is only on during cranking and this is also true on some 1.8L (unless ECU flash updated? See TSB on topic. )   Buzzing is no proof at ALL, of 34 PSI pressure !
(2): The 8v motor , the ECU Injector drivers drive both  ground and 12vdc from inside the ECU. via 2 wires. Totally different than an 16v motor !  Do not confuse 8v and 16v, vast differences.
(3): Feel free to do the tests in any order, if you lack tools , you will not get far, but  trying the test fuel on any dry spark plug motor, is a good ploy, as is the pump buzz and pinch test.
(4)  At real low RPM, the NOID will flash , at higher RPM cranking the NOID will seem to be on, all the time cranking only , like this.
(5)  the hose pinch tests or squirt test only proves the pump is dead (or FPreg stuck closed) and never proves a proper pump pressure test.  
Do not forget, that the 8v motor,  you can look down the Air horn of the TB and see it inject (use a flash light ) cranking  or see it leak key on not cranking (bad)
This page assumes the motor is good, mostly and that the cam is spinning (look) and that the motor is timed (all)  and  that the crank bolt is at TSB spec. of 94/ft/lbs  (and crank key is not stripped)
If you have not done your 60K tuneup, why wait ( 60k and all multiples of  this)?
(6) You need to connect the Diagnostic jumper and crank the motor for 3-5seconds release the key ,(dont turn off the key) and see if codes 41/42 show up.  if yes?,  you found why injection is dead.
(6a:) I you have  a 1996+ newer car, connect the scan tool and do the 5 sec. crank and look for dead RPM? =0 or P0335 or P0340s.  if yes, bingo bad CMP or bad spark. The Tacho must not be dead on this car too.

Here is witchhunter  flow performance on my 8v  injector.(actual)

The 16v 1.6L flow rates are 172cc @ 3 bar.

UnFlooding Trick 2:  Pull the fuel pump relay,  dry out those fuel soaked spark plugs, now use test fuel if too dry . Put sparks back. Then crank.  I unplug the large plug behind rear left tale light (pump is pink wire)
 If motor starts, and  sounds good, as it spins to a stops , you need to find why the motor floods (test fuel pressure now ! and leak down test.)

FAQ:  (USA centric on history, as always...)
Q1: Who or what device, makes my injector(s) FIRE?
A1: The ECU, the ECU IS REALLY THE INJECTION BRAIN.  In fact, Suzuki parts list calls it the Fuel Injection controller.  It has injector drivers that he brain modulates to feed fuel rates under ALL CONDITIONS.
Q2: Who or what device, makes spark?
A1: On 89/90 the Distributor does that, all by its lonesome.  Starting In 91, the ECU now, is the spark generator and the distributor is only a drummer boy and spark distribution device. The ECU actually runs the coil directly 91'+. and CREATES advance.
Q1: What things can kill injection.?
A1: The loss of spark, the loss of fuel pressure., a bad TPS signaling WOT all the time (unflood mode forever). , The spark suppressor missing or open., a bad ECU, clogged or dead injector(s), broken wires to injectors. , YES, A DEAD TACHOMETER.

My Jargon page: (short)

I assume here, that  the engine harness wires are  connected at the engine or ECU, or all  sensors & actuators  are connected)  I assume all parts are in there places. and fresh gasoline (Petrol)
That all sensors wires look good at the sensor ends and at the ECU side. No hacks, no cut wires, frayed ends.
This page is condensed. and that is its primary purpose. 1 page +  1 liners.  For all the reasons for engine  failure look here.
For all nostart  reasons try this page;

versiion 6  12-1-2012