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Greetings..and..Transmission
#11
Not sure which gear locking balls you mean but am sure to find out when I discover what you meant at the wrong time.
the gears are pulled 1 by 1 if not these 2 balls LOCK. off counter shaft.
step 22 here
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5speed-rebuild.html
or photo here.
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/images/magic.jpg





The weather here and my resolve are finally aligned (and have parts). Got seats out, console, and now working on shifter removal.

Wondering: does it matter what gear I set each to for removal? NO, (with lid off , the counter shaft , just lifts out, there are no gears to set once lifted but neutral would be good. keeping the syncrho hubs, contained.

I guess I can be taking the muffler off while I worry about it.
Removing the seat, and setting in back, I caught a rail in my brittle back window, so there's a replacement or new top job for after. Until then, duct tape city. Wink ouch.

rc
[/quote]

the only tricks are the 2 tiny locking balls
and on assembly getting the Gaps right, measured as you pull counter out of case, just before.
that gap issues is because you dont have the rare suzuki special tool to set them, last.
mine measured 0.005" this free play gap, so on assembly it put it back to that much. see gap 1
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/5thGear.JPG
the gap is here, at bearing 8, if set wrong, 8 binds, (too far set forward) if too far rear set, then bearing 11 will not fit and snap 12 will not fit.
this is the only calibration step.
the special tool sets bearing 8, exactly. but we dont need it. use feeler gauge as the 1st act. lid off.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#12
Thanks for the clarifications and image post.

Got the shifters off, got exhaust off, that was a relief. Not as bad as feared, did have one exhaust bolt that was a pain.

Note to other crazies Wink doing this: There's a bracket right under the exhaust manifold that is hard to see when you have your car jacked up high (and obscured in part by the bottom heat cover), and it needs to come off too. (oops) "Why won't that thing slide right off?". I removed the 2 bolts and sectioned the exhaust after the catalytic, made it easier, it's kind of heavy. Plus side, now can re-work my prior welded muffler repair and get things sealed up better, or install a brand new muffler.

In a kindness, factory machined the exhaust manifold cutout area for the 02 sensor just under size enough that no Oxygen sensor socked will quite set into the little gap between the nut area and that machining around it
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#13
mine too, cat header bolt, impossible to remove. (took serious torch heat to get it to budge, with impact gun 1/2"drive.)
yes, that seat deal. (dang silly that) i think i upgraded mine those plastic rivet deals, the can come off, just sliding seat. but not stock.they are pain. (and tricky)

finding and o2 socket is hard , sometimes finding one that fits or a crow foot O2 type works,

so far so good, and good luck!
http://www.fixkick.com
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#14
I'll try the crowfoot O2, or seek a thin walled alternate, thanks.

How much gear oil should I see coming out of a Tracker's transmission case, for each section? I had added to top (bottom of fill hole) before I decided a rework was the necessity, noise didn't quieten any, but what I'm getting out doesn't seem to meet what I thought was supposed to be in there. (less than a tall plastic 1.8 qt Orange Juice container's worth?). I thought it was supposed to be like 3 quarts?

The weather here has been heck this winter, snow and 5 degrees or raining, finally opening up transfer and trans drainers. Heck, this is NC but we just got 4-5 inches snow the other night.

Way behind on this job. Tool-wise just need some kind of bearing puller, have the long-tonged gear puller.

rc
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#15
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/95-fluid-capacities.jpg

3.2pints, or 1.6 quarts, or 1.7Liters

xfr is 3.6 pints. 1.8 quarts, or 1.7 liters

ignore, longer imperial pints. (unless in some very strange and odd village in Canada that uses, Imperial measurments,)


good luck to you.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#16
(03-01-2015, 10:56 AM)fixkick Wrote: http://www.fixkick.com/specs/95-fluid-capacities.jpg

3.2pints, or 1.6 quarts, or 1.7Liters

xfr is 3.6 pints. 1.8 quarts, or 1.7 liters

ignore, longer imperial pints. (unless in some very strange and odd village in Canada that uses, Imperial measurments,)

good luck to you.

Thanks for the info, that sounds right.

Transfer did put out more
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#17
Great !
and thanks for sharing!

usually the drain plug mags have like fine mag. mud (steel fines) there. very fine.
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#18
Great weather finally, got my nerve up too (have to, registration and all that is expiring soon, gotta get'er'done Sad )

Transmission is ready to unbolt up front and lower, all is set that way
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#19
step 27? http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new...howto.html
ive always used long extensions and swivel ,for socket to get top bolts on bell last. let the tail shaft drop after the crossmember is off.
i guess the fan shroud off is so fan dont crush against the op of it?as tail shaft drops. no need to take off just make it loose?

did you see this link , at step 0
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/new....html#haha

yes the starter is gear reduction and powerful , and the make even smaller more powerful ones with super permanent rare earth magnets.

exedy clutch is good.
i'd not use the cheapest china made clutch after 8 hours of hard labor. not me. id go top names, Sachs is great. too.

there 2 sizes, 8v and 16v clutches (link below is guess at engine)


id not buy the lowest one, here
LUK on up, not ams.

ok 92 8v (they show both clutches for both engine engines here, after all suzuki uses same VI engine codes for both and are not same engine or clutch)
the tracker vin code for 8v is U (V-16v)
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...ttype=1993

if replacing all clutch parts, the larger clutch fits too. on 8v.
but the flywheel may need re-surfacing with all that rust on the outer 1 inch boundary.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#20
I got driver side top bell bolt off, the passenger side one right above the starter bulge is darn hard to get at from bottom or top though? I can get at it from top inside engine compartment, but then there's only a 2 inch area to rotate the ratchet. Will try again when it's cooler this evening. (weather was too cold, now it's too hot
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