11-23-2013, 11:30 PM
Well, I did do the compression test on initial timing check about 2 weeks ago. Compression was good 185 185 180 180, timing was good too, i adjusted it only 2degrees at that time.
when i did the distributor swap i pulled the old one off at #1 firing or thereabouts noted its positon and slipped the new distributor in same way. took it over to the shop with the timing light and it was at 10 degrees, so i wound it down to 5 and all is well.
I did the majority of this work outside at -30c in the dark as it is dark season now so no sunrise till february.
It wasnt until I was preparing to do my electrical testing, after careful examination of the FSM did i realize i should put the starter wire back on and go from there.
The car immediately went from flashing SEL, obvious misfire and only 100 to 130kms per tank of fuel,and glowing cat running condition to a smooth running high idle on cold start up, better fuel consumption, before I could literally watch the needle drop in a 15km commute. prior to my trouble i was getting 350 kms to about 40ltrs of fuel.
Car seems fine.
Except now iam pretty sure the cat is toast and it has cause an exhaust leak at the manifold. good volume of white smoke coming from manifold area on cold stats and a good whooshing noise on acceleration. This I will fix soon, I wonder if I allow the exhaust to flow better if the leak will go away or if i will need to take the manifold off and put new gasket.
You dont think the the little black starter wire was the fix? Nothing else i did really changed much at all. I guess i will know more after a few hundred km's of driving.
Did a visual inspection of all ground and wiggled the crank position sensor. that s all.
I will let you know if things get really bad again.
I will take a look at the crank keyway when i change my timing belt and water pump.
when i did the distributor swap i pulled the old one off at #1 firing or thereabouts noted its positon and slipped the new distributor in same way. took it over to the shop with the timing light and it was at 10 degrees, so i wound it down to 5 and all is well.
I did the majority of this work outside at -30c in the dark as it is dark season now so no sunrise till february.
It wasnt until I was preparing to do my electrical testing, after careful examination of the FSM did i realize i should put the starter wire back on and go from there.
The car immediately went from flashing SEL, obvious misfire and only 100 to 130kms per tank of fuel,and glowing cat running condition to a smooth running high idle on cold start up, better fuel consumption, before I could literally watch the needle drop in a 15km commute. prior to my trouble i was getting 350 kms to about 40ltrs of fuel.
Car seems fine.
Except now iam pretty sure the cat is toast and it has cause an exhaust leak at the manifold. good volume of white smoke coming from manifold area on cold stats and a good whooshing noise on acceleration. This I will fix soon, I wonder if I allow the exhaust to flow better if the leak will go away or if i will need to take the manifold off and put new gasket.
You dont think the the little black starter wire was the fix? Nothing else i did really changed much at all. I guess i will know more after a few hundred km's of driving.
Did a visual inspection of all ground and wiggled the crank position sensor. that s all.
I will let you know if things get really bad again.
I will take a look at the crank keyway when i change my timing belt and water pump.
(11-23-2013, 10:19 PM)fixkick Wrote: 340s should only be (crank key or cam key nor timing belt loose) a bad DIZZY CMP or the wires to it (and ECU bad, but i don't believe any ECU fails here)
the step you skipped is compression.... all new kicks new to your the home, do
1: check crank bolt torque day 1 , must be 94-ft/lbs not if below 50lbs. below is a very bad idea.
2: check compression at #1 cycl. must bet 150psi or more.. 180 is the warm normal. at wide open throttle (near) if way low?, do all 4 cylinders.. (id do them all )
3: the sneak-a-peek test, fast easy way to see if timing is off... the stick test is good too. but can be off by 10deg.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
4: that fuse box, is it under hood at fender?. yes, those wires are main power to the whole car. if bad, all hope lost, the box is still sold by suzuki new, cheap, (amazing)
ABS is fuse 2. fender box. fuse 1 and fuse 3 and 7 are there wires are extremely critical to running engine , EFI ,, ECU and spark.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/96fuse-map.jpg
ouch ,what was spark timing before the dizzy swap? this error now, tells the degree of cam/crank slip. lost data....
yes, back probing the ECU is real hard, near impossible. the connectors are to rear and very hard to reach. id not do it. it check the sensors only.
ECT chart is here, 0F (zero){-17C} is 11500 ohms, (unplugged) hot engine is about 300 ohms. colder is higher Ohms. 300 is near 180F so engine can run in warm mode.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
gotta fix 340s, it will never run right with 340s. you must find true cause of 340s (not saying i know what, but is serious for sure.)
keep in mind it can be false. if the timing belt or keys loose. the timing will jump all over and cause the ECU to mis-report 340s... it expects consistent timing or linear up and down rate changes...(via throttle)
it timing bounces, it thinks the tooth pulse (CMP ) is missing. (my theory) and if true has nothing to do with the Dizzy.. (itself)
that crank bolt. is key, no pun.
may of these old cars Had a bad crank key at one time, and the fix was jury rigged in. (huge list of tricks, some are horrid)
i think gorkyb dizzy gear, some one put it on 180 deg off, it has 13 teeth and is not symmetrical. must be marked before take off that locking pin
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...b1w%29.jpg
note rotor tip, and gear teeth and pin relation ships. here. and the china rotor syndrome that fits on 3 ways, add those 3 and the 2 pin gear ways, and
huge ways to mess up. (the gear on the end has a relation ship to the hidden, hall sensor tooth, and most not be violated.)
in all cases of wrong fitment above line, spark is hot and good., correct out of coil but not to the spark plugs.(distribution errors)
the 340s. the ecu sees a chain (square wave) of signals. fire, fire , fire, fire,fire, fire , fire, fire,
if it (ECU) sees, fire, fire , fire, fire,nothing, fire , fire, fire, (BAM, 340s) for any reasons.
A: a bad dizzy is rare , for 340s, it's reliable to the extreme, this hall sensor, IT IS.
b: lost, or loose DC 12v power to DIZZY pin. (fender fuse box to cab box and then to dizzy ,every inch must be good)
c: lost, or loose ground to same. (has special dizzy base ground lugs , see them.? G102? see my bad ground page and 96+ list of photos.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/dizzy-gnd1w.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ECU-ground1.jpg
d: lost, or loose, cmp wire. to same.
e: timing belt doing wild gyrations for any reasons. (all 100% mechanical) (theory and must be extreme)
you have salt corrosion damage, there are many places to check on car for that.
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html
This side kick uses body and engine grounds in a way that invites failure.. (saves copper ) but invites salt induced , corrosion damage and EFI failure.