340s should only be (crank key or cam key nor timing belt loose) a bad DIZZY CMP or the wires to it (and ECU bad, but i don't believe any ECU fails here)
the step you skipped is compression.... all new kicks new to your the home, do
1: check crank bolt torque day 1 , must be 94-ft/lbs not if below 50lbs. below is a very bad idea.
2: check compression at #1 cycl. must bet 150psi or more.. 180 is the warm normal. at wide open throttle (near) if way low?, do all 4 cylinders.. (id do them all )
3: the sneak-a-peek test, fast easy way to see if timing is off... the stick test is good too. but can be off by 10deg.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
4: that fuse box, is it under hood at fender?. yes, those wires are main power to the whole car. if bad, all hope lost, the box is still sold by suzuki new, cheap, (amazing)
ABS is fuse 2. fender box. fuse 1 and fuse 3 and 7 are there wires are extremely critical to running engine , EFI ,, ECU and spark.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/96fuse-map.jpg
ouch ,what was spark timing before the dizzy swap? this error now, tells the degree of cam/crank slip. lost data....
yes, back probing the ECU is real hard, near impossible. the connectors are to rear and very hard to reach. id not do it. it check the sensors only.
ECT chart is here, 0F (zero){-17C} is 11500 ohms, (unplugged) hot engine is about 300 ohms. colder is higher Ohms. 300 is near 180F so engine can run in warm mode.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
gotta fix 340s, it will never run right with 340s. you must find true cause of 340s (not saying i know what, but is serious for sure.)
keep in mind it can be false. if the timing belt or keys loose. the timing will jump all over and cause the ECU to mis-report 340s... it expects consistent timing or linear up and down rate changes...(via throttle)
it timing bounces, it thinks the tooth pulse (CMP ) is missing. (my theory) and if true has nothing to do with the Dizzy.. (itself)
that crank bolt. is key, no pun.
may of these old cars Had a bad crank key at one time, and the fix was jury rigged in. (huge list of tricks, some are horrid)
i think gorkyb dizzy gear, some one put it on 180 deg off, it has 13 teeth and is not symmetrical. must be marked before take off that locking pin
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...b1w%29.jpg
note rotor tip, and gear teeth and pin relation ships. here. and the china rotor syndrome that fits on 3 ways, add those 3 and the 2 pin gear ways, and
huge ways to mess up. (the gear on the end has a relation ship to the hidden, hall sensor tooth, and most not be violated.)
in all cases of wrong fitment above line, spark is hot and good., correct out of coil but not to the spark plugs.(distribution errors)
the 340s. the ecu sees a chain (square wave) of signals. fire, fire , fire, fire,fire, fire , fire, fire,
if it (ECU) sees, fire, fire , fire, fire,nothing, fire , fire, fire, (BAM, 340s) for any reasons.
A: a bad dizzy is rare , for 340s, it's reliable to the extreme, this hall sensor, IT IS.
b: lost, or loose DC 12v power to DIZZY pin. (fender fuse box to cab box and then to dizzy ,every inch must be good)
c: lost, or loose ground to same. (has special dizzy base ground lugs , see them.? G102? see my bad ground page and 96+ list of photos.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/dizzy-gnd1w.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ECU-ground1.jpg
d: lost, or loose, cmp wire. to same.
e: timing belt doing wild gyrations for any reasons. (all 100% mechanical) (theory and must be extreme)
you have salt corrosion damage, there are many places to check on car for that.
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html
This side kick uses body and engine grounds in a way that invites failure.. (saves copper ) but invites salt induced , corrosion damage and EFI failure.
the step you skipped is compression.... all new kicks new to your the home, do
1: check crank bolt torque day 1 , must be 94-ft/lbs not if below 50lbs. below is a very bad idea.
2: check compression at #1 cycl. must bet 150psi or more.. 180 is the warm normal. at wide open throttle (near) if way low?, do all 4 cylinders.. (id do them all )
3: the sneak-a-peek test, fast easy way to see if timing is off... the stick test is good too. but can be off by 10deg.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
4: that fuse box, is it under hood at fender?. yes, those wires are main power to the whole car. if bad, all hope lost, the box is still sold by suzuki new, cheap, (amazing)
ABS is fuse 2. fender box. fuse 1 and fuse 3 and 7 are there wires are extremely critical to running engine , EFI ,, ECU and spark.
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/96fuse-map.jpg
ouch ,what was spark timing before the dizzy swap? this error now, tells the degree of cam/crank slip. lost data....
yes, back probing the ECU is real hard, near impossible. the connectors are to rear and very hard to reach. id not do it. it check the sensors only.
ECT chart is here, 0F (zero){-17C} is 11500 ohms, (unplugged) hot engine is about 300 ohms. colder is higher Ohms. 300 is near 180F so engine can run in warm mode.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/temp-sensors.html
gotta fix 340s, it will never run right with 340s. you must find true cause of 340s (not saying i know what, but is serious for sure.)
keep in mind it can be false. if the timing belt or keys loose. the timing will jump all over and cause the ECU to mis-report 340s... it expects consistent timing or linear up and down rate changes...(via throttle)
it timing bounces, it thinks the tooth pulse (CMP ) is missing. (my theory) and if true has nothing to do with the Dizzy.. (itself)
that crank bolt. is key, no pun.
may of these old cars Had a bad crank key at one time, and the fix was jury rigged in. (huge list of tricks, some are horrid)
i think gorkyb dizzy gear, some one put it on 180 deg off, it has 13 teeth and is not symmetrical. must be marked before take off that locking pin
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...b1w%29.jpg
note rotor tip, and gear teeth and pin relation ships. here. and the china rotor syndrome that fits on 3 ways, add those 3 and the 2 pin gear ways, and
huge ways to mess up. (the gear on the end has a relation ship to the hidden, hall sensor tooth, and most not be violated.)
in all cases of wrong fitment above line, spark is hot and good., correct out of coil but not to the spark plugs.(distribution errors)
the 340s. the ecu sees a chain (square wave) of signals. fire, fire , fire, fire,fire, fire , fire, fire,
if it (ECU) sees, fire, fire , fire, fire,nothing, fire , fire, fire, (BAM, 340s) for any reasons.
A: a bad dizzy is rare , for 340s, it's reliable to the extreme, this hall sensor, IT IS.
b: lost, or loose DC 12v power to DIZZY pin. (fender fuse box to cab box and then to dizzy ,every inch must be good)
c: lost, or loose ground to same. (has special dizzy base ground lugs , see them.? G102? see my bad ground page and 96+ list of photos.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/dizzy-gnd1w.jpg
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ECU-ground1.jpg
d: lost, or loose, cmp wire. to same.
e: timing belt doing wild gyrations for any reasons. (all 100% mechanical) (theory and must be extreme)
you have salt corrosion damage, there are many places to check on car for that.
http://www.fixkick.com/Good_Bad_Ugly/com...lures.html
This side kick uses body and engine grounds in a way that invites failure.. (saves copper ) but invites salt induced , corrosion damage and EFI failure.
http://www.fixkick.com