I found my car in a field , in a barn or it just sat for years.                           

You make sure sure the car, does not leak fuel, parked, or cranking. Correct that first.

You fix the brakes, they now  work great, and not leak or pull.  (I just overhaul them, on sight)

Do the Brake pull tests after motor runs.
The car was not a Daily Driver "DD", so the fuel will be bad.

No car, can start and run right ,with bad fuel, if you just found your car in a barn and it was sitting for may years,  the fuel is bad,  test the fuel or just drain/flush/clean the fuel loop.
Bad gas can not be corrected with a bottle of snake oil.  Sorry!
The filter will be bad too. (how ever "ISO Heet(tm)" in the "Yellow" bottle  (methanol)will suck up water in the fuel, more that the E10 did already.
Take a sample of the fuel in a glass jar,smell it? does it smell bad, well it is, then let it set for 1 to 8 hours, do you see water balls form? bingo bad fuel, full of water.

I won't mention, red algea or, green slime or piles of rust, as that is obviously bad fuel or a useless gas tank if rusted. 
 (the injector screens are 10 microns in size on may cars, that can be cleaned)  .0004 inches. is the smallest thing the human eye (unaided) can see. 10 times smaller than hair.
See how easy it is,to packup and injector.
Always clean the fuel loop from rear to front , or risk lots of DO OVER'S.
I don't risk my family ,with cleaned rusty fuel tanks,  I park in a garage, so having a tank leak, when on vacation ,is problematic! "boom"
I just buy a new tank, also a tank is about $100 ,why invest $50 cleaning in zero dollar rusty old tank.?

Once the fuel loop is clean and fuel  pressure is at 30psi (8v or 40psi 16v) key on.
If pressure is low or low engine power,loosen the gas cap; the wrong cap, causes a huge vacuum in the tank, a lost cause. It needs a vacuum breaker.
Do the 60K mile (every 60,000 mile) Tune up. (see EGR checks)

After the 60k, service, I do a compression test on all BARN KICKS. after all. why spend lots of money on a true Dead motor.
But the 60k cures many a dead motor. so...... (at least get the timing belt working, so compresion comes back to spec.)
I clear all DTC's stored in the ECU, by pulling the DOME fuse. for 2 minutes.
Then make sure the CEL comes on key on. and flashes 12s on demand.  If the engine messes up, I keep coming back here, just in case....
Case in point, dang why is that ECT keep failing hard?
Fix the ratty wiring under the dash and in the engine bay ,or the EFI  system will be real upset. (sensors unplugged?)

Engine Issues:

Does the engine fail  to crank over good?  (dead starter)

It cranks over good, but fails to start.

My Found On Road Dead page (F.O.R.D)  I used to run but today no.

The engine runs, but has no power.

At this point the engines itself is good, the spark is good, the EGR main is clean and does notstick open.
The engine, at least runs now.
All other issues, are covered on the previous pages. Hit the BACK arrow, or Home above.

This page puts the turtle back on his feet.

v1; barn.html.




Privacy Policy