|E.G.R. Exhaust Gas Recirculation
problems ? in the USA and Canada :
A complex topic only, due to 11 years of evolution from crude vacuum magic, to simple single electric motor valve.
Getting Diagnostic Trouble Codes associated with this EGR system?
The only magic is in the modulator, and most respond well to cleaning!
Is the ECU throwing , DTC's 51? or P0400 ?
If you drive a "SLICK KICK" , any JDM car , with no EGR at all? : hit the back button. :
Fails smog ? Stalls at stop signs? or engine won't start? Barfs DTC's for EGR?
This page is a generic overview of issues, the next link cover all exact systems used.
Go to my EGR year index, far below now !
The GOAL?, is this EGR gas flow graphic. (NOX reduction and cooler exhaust valves)
Why EGR systems vary by year, and country, some countries, don't even have the EGR.
You can spend all week end ,cleaning it , or do the 3 tests. "Stall : Bark : Live"!
Warning ! Do not use more that 5 foot/pounds of reverse force on the 2 EGR main 6mm screws, or they will SNAP off. GO EASY HERE !
The Stall test means you made it stall or near stalls , With a hot 800 RPM normal idle speed. The strong engine can do 400 RPM and shake during test. (normal)
The Bark test is starting a engine with the EGR tube or valve removed, to see if the ports there bark, if not, they are plugged up. Path blockages.
The bark check needs to be done 2 ways, on at the top EGR main large hose, (off) and with the EGR removed.
None of the tests are 100% definitive, some say, sure but, gee, if both tests fail , that is in fact a hard failure.
Mostly, the 2 tests passing does not prove the 4 quad ports are clear, in the inake manifold.
The early MPI engines ,the 4 quad port intake manifold, has test, but if the ' test passes and the EGR main if working, (opens) then the stall test fail ,proves
that 4 ports are clogged, 1 to all 4. (no matter if the stall test fails, here, the intake needs to come off to clean those pesky, EGR tiny ports. x4.)
The tests are: (A fast review): (there are many tests, not just this short list)
Basic facts about the system:
Folks come here for 4 reasons. (not to mention, EGR cracked or base gasket bad and sucking fresh air like mad!)
Some nice examples: Hand vacuum pump is best, no burns. But you can use soft wood stick, to push the diaphram ring.
On early cars pre-1996, the live test is easy. Hot engine, gun the throttle, and see the EGR diaphram move, no need for car moving.
In 1996, you have to be above say 2 MPH to get EGR action.
Here is one man, doing the stall test (8v) in a new video.
A fast Review of all years:
end review, now specific generators of EGR:
The USA generations of EGR are here, with full testing for each.
Pick one?: All years below:
Keep in mind, The many tests, and some very simple time saving logic. (not applicable to GEN 4,Suzuki Sports , for gen4 just clean it)
In each generation, there are 2 holes under the EGR main the bark hole, and the vacuum suck hole. (MPI , is the engine side left hole)
The barking can be called the Putt Putt holes or pathes. It happens engine cracked or running.
This is just a review below see your generation EGR above for details.
My Advance EGR modulator testing page, for all Kicks, 89-98 1.6L .
History and other, complex issues , and facts:
How to Clean the EGR main.
Warning ! do not use more that 5 foot/pounds of reverse force on the EGR 6mm screws, or they will SNAP off. GO EASY HERE !
Spec. is 89 inch/ pounds (7foot/lbs) but after 20 years of no service, I'd not go past 5 foot/lbs torque removing it.
Use lots of penetrating oil, even over night soaks. And jog the bolt head, CCW ,the CW, back and forth (jog) to get it free.
Use heat on this 6mm bolt, if you can't get it loose. (propane torch: get screw real hot, then turn , or jog it.)
There are 5 systems used, 89 to now. History...
The secret rules for the EGRT thermoprobe device, are here. (introduced on California cars only in 1989)
A stuck open EGR can wreck hot idle, speeds, not 800 RPM Hot but 400. And shakes like a wet dog , hot. Hot means Coolant at 180F+
The EGR Main can leak exhaust or air, the gasket can suck air or the casing can crack and suck air, and this causes idle controls, to fail too.
The 1995.5 and newer the side winder tube can have missing SST gaskets and this will suck air, and make the engine run lean and slow idle. (or surging)
The EGR cools the exhaust valves , They last LONGER those valves. ! but cleaning it is a royal PITA. (a love /hate deal)
This Smog device, reduces Nitrous Oxides (NOX) and the resultant acid rain and river pollution. (bla-bla....)
Getting Error Code 51 or P0400's DTC
(A bad idle can also be bad TPS idle switch bad, or sticky ISC)
Do not touch the casing of a hot EGR or its piping, please, don't get burned or caught in the fan blades or belts of the motor.
If these concepts , make no sense to you, then read this first.
Some years, pre 92' and some Canadian cars have no code 51 EGR tests at all.. and will not fail 51s ever.
Those cars, you will not notice a stuck closed EGR, but stuck open , this will stall the engine.
When I say stall this means , stall or near stall at 400 RPM, an strong motor can run real slow, so ' a GOOD SIGN that it can.
Some "JDM" cars, have no EGR at ALL! (< see the CarbonMonoxide "CO" adjuster here, on those cars. Not used in USA at all.!)
Nor 02 sensor at all, No Cat converter either.
Look for them, and see unique p/n on ECU.?
See Duanes VIDEOS !
#1 Public Offender the EGR main valve. Bench cleaning and testing!
The EGRT is expensive, and so is the main valve about $300 a set. But is easy to clean that probe, see it? and the most easy to test.
The sensor reads near 10,000 hot and about 250,000 ohms cold (un-plugged)
Just open the main valve any way you can (hand vacuum) on a hot 800 RPM idling engine, and see the ohms drop to 10k range.
That means it works.
Removing the probe from the body , can break it, so try to clean it , in place,
It is just a classic NTC Thermistor sensor . It is very crud and is not calibrated, its just shows, yes, I'm hot now, not an exact temp.
See that nipple above in the main vavle (goes to MOD) @5pm, it too must bark running, or its clogged, somewhere.
Before starting you need a digital multi meter and a Vacuum hand pump.
Carb / induction / MAF cleaner in a spray can.
These Items are Critical to all DIY repairs on all cars and trucks.
Jargon? Unclear ? :
Rev: 10 major edits, 3-28-2013