first off you don't need fuel fuel tank, fuel pump, or even and injector to start any engine, it will run on test fuel , hand sprayed.
and no top air pipe on top of TB is needed on 8V , engine, NO MAF on this engine.
it will start and run for 3 seconds, and sound perfectly, if timed right. and can be repeated, or even sustained with (human injector, if you get my drift)
sure it's timed wrong. that back fire is the clue.
to get it correct is easy.... (keep in mind there are 10 ways to mess-up, and that timing page attempts to cure all 10. )
the 7 steps are here. STATIC TIMING. is first.
none are any good, unless the engine compression is 150PSI + wide open throttle, if it is , the cam is timed correctly and must be so.
do not look at the distributor ever, when timing the cam, or you will be doing it all wrong, after all the distrib. is probably set wrong,
ok got 150PSI, crank cog mark at12pm , cam key down, 60a mark up 12pm mark on back pan.
step 1: crank pulley can be wrong if firing at #4 , this is seen as #4 valves loss. so trun the crank again, CW, unit 0 degrees is found.
see that the #1 valves are loose. (or cant blow air in the #1 spark socket with a hose an lips....)
#2 just says, make sure #1 is right.
step 3 is drop the distributor.
if its already planted, then the rotor is at 11-oclock. if not and is between rotor top cap terminals, then it was installed wrong.
if it point directly to other terminals, then someone time it to another terminal, and will run like that for ever, but you need to know what the other guy did first.
since i dont know what you have going here at this step we can not progress.
I say timing it like the book says, that way, later on you dont get confused, as we all would doing other proceedures that ask for this 11pm rotor location.
there are in fact 4 ways to static time this distrubutor. only one is the factoryway
the 7 steps.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/8v-pro...#fastplant
mark the top edge of the distrib, cap on, or 11 pm term location, then cap off move mark to its easy to see like this.
look close see my white markes,
![[Image: dizzy91-real1w.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/dizzy91-real1w.jpg)
most folks dont know the crank TDC is really #1 and #4 firing, both. the pistons on 4 and 1 are in sync, perfectly.
so timing the distrib this is the most important step.
the first 8 steps below work to find true TDC in this case here but not 7. due to it wrong now.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC/TDC.html
G16a 8valve engine, (I guess)
QOD , I only have questions.... and are all 100% key (no pun) to the problem
1: engine compression over 150psi?
2; does you key look like this.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16v-crankkey1.jpg
this is very important. , as it must be. or the distributor is based off all that. the distrib is at the end if the mech, line.
so...
now diagnostic, there are 10 + errors. possible.
ill list them in order of badness.
1: crank key wrecked,
2: cam not timed right. like magic, 150psi , compression test passes if valve last set to spec, is it? does it?
3: distributor not planted at 11oclock per real photo above. or was planted with cam at #4 firing, oops, TDC #1 firing is at #1 valve lash is loose !!!
4: wires not routed and places, on distrb cap in the CW clock wise Direction.
5 :wire not routed, 1,3,4,2, order. CW.
6; and last set timing running with timing freeze jumper inserted.
sorry I have no trouble shooting pages, on this.
lots of pit falls. very very hard to make such a page.
including rotors from china that fit on 3 ways, (pure crap rotors. real rotors never do this and if you have it , all hope is lost unless timing it 3 way is fun.)
one guy had removed the distrib, bottom gear and was timed wrong.
the above 6 ways are 99% of all.
this is very normal now, don't feel bad or wonder why it is confusing , it IS.
many workers in shops now never seen a Distributor. (heard maybe)
as most cars now are DIS fired.
and timing fixed, hard.
and no top air pipe on top of TB is needed on 8V , engine, NO MAF on this engine.
it will start and run for 3 seconds, and sound perfectly, if timed right. and can be repeated, or even sustained with (human injector, if you get my drift)
sure it's timed wrong. that back fire is the clue.
to get it correct is easy.... (keep in mind there are 10 ways to mess-up, and that timing page attempts to cure all 10. )
the 7 steps are here. STATIC TIMING. is first.
none are any good, unless the engine compression is 150PSI + wide open throttle, if it is , the cam is timed correctly and must be so.
do not look at the distributor ever, when timing the cam, or you will be doing it all wrong, after all the distrib. is probably set wrong,
ok got 150PSI, crank cog mark at12pm , cam key down, 60a mark up 12pm mark on back pan.
step 1: crank pulley can be wrong if firing at #4 , this is seen as #4 valves loss. so trun the crank again, CW, unit 0 degrees is found.
see that the #1 valves are loose. (or cant blow air in the #1 spark socket with a hose an lips....)
#2 just says, make sure #1 is right.
step 3 is drop the distributor.
if its already planted, then the rotor is at 11-oclock. if not and is between rotor top cap terminals, then it was installed wrong.
if it point directly to other terminals, then someone time it to another terminal, and will run like that for ever, but you need to know what the other guy did first.
since i dont know what you have going here at this step we can not progress.
I say timing it like the book says, that way, later on you dont get confused, as we all would doing other proceedures that ask for this 11pm rotor location.
there are in fact 4 ways to static time this distrubutor. only one is the factoryway
the 7 steps.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/8v-pro...#fastplant
mark the top edge of the distrib, cap on, or 11 pm term location, then cap off move mark to its easy to see like this.
look close see my white markes,
most folks dont know the crank TDC is really #1 and #4 firing, both. the pistons on 4 and 1 are in sync, perfectly.
so timing the distrib this is the most important step.
the first 8 steps below work to find true TDC in this case here but not 7. due to it wrong now.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/TDC/TDC.html
G16a 8valve engine, (I guess)
QOD , I only have questions.... and are all 100% key (no pun) to the problem
1: engine compression over 150psi?
2; does you key look like this.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/16v-crankkey1.jpg
this is very important. , as it must be. or the distributor is based off all that. the distrib is at the end if the mech, line.
so...
now diagnostic, there are 10 + errors. possible.
ill list them in order of badness.
1: crank key wrecked,
2: cam not timed right. like magic, 150psi , compression test passes if valve last set to spec, is it? does it?
3: distributor not planted at 11oclock per real photo above. or was planted with cam at #4 firing, oops, TDC #1 firing is at #1 valve lash is loose !!!
4: wires not routed and places, on distrb cap in the CW clock wise Direction.
5 :wire not routed, 1,3,4,2, order. CW.
6; and last set timing running with timing freeze jumper inserted.
sorry I have no trouble shooting pages, on this.
lots of pit falls. very very hard to make such a page.
including rotors from china that fit on 3 ways, (pure crap rotors. real rotors never do this and if you have it , all hope is lost unless timing it 3 way is fun.)
one guy had removed the distrib, bottom gear and was timed wrong.
the above 6 ways are 99% of all.
this is very normal now, don't feel bad or wonder why it is confusing , it IS.
many workers in shops now never seen a Distributor. (heard maybe)
as most cars now are DIS fired.
and timing fixed, hard.
http://www.fixkick.com