06-17-2014, 02:36 AM
keep the battery charged, cranking with low battery makes spark weak and harder to start, and 10x with bad fuel.
you have fuel , i bet the injector does squirt. cranking. and the pressure is 34 PSI cranking.
but i cant see you injector id need a video of that. to see how well it does. or not.
this covers every angle there is on injections, cross linked and all.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/injectors.html
below link, covers no starts, a much more complex topic, some engines start for 1 second and die. or stall all the time or fail to start cold or hot or either.
bad engine, Cat clogged, not 150PSI compression on all 4, old engine do this
bad spark 1 ,2,3,4 cylinder,
bad spark timing if discovered, is slipped timing belt. (or some yahoo spun the dizzy willy nilly. as some old shade tree mech, do. and fail)
if all that is good.
Bad fueling or bad fuel.
if the engine runs real nice on test fuel, sounds real good. its bad fueling or bad fuel. or????
keep in mind store bought instant start in a can will start a flooded, engine, fooling us in to thinking fuel starvation
the solution to that is looking at all spark tips, ahhhhh it is flooding, and at the injector actual, see it is injecting. and not burning that fuel.
beside basics above.
CHECK ENGINE lamp on key on, oops bad ECU,. bad lamp bad fuse. to ecu.
Diagnostic jumper>? shows code 12s cranking.? not 41's
its all here.
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html
compression test is 1st. (on all old engines, and will tell you its FUTURE, so we look timeserver, after all why put lots of labor$$ in a near death engine)?
then spark, tests, an engine with 80 psi is CAM belt slipped,x4, and will run with 80 pSI witih test fuel, just like that VW video i posted, even a 50psi lawnmower. does.
but not EFI, it will not run if the cam slipped, sorry it will not. Not under EFI contol, not right or at all.
if the cat is melted the test fuel should fail. dropping the exhuast header or racking the exh, manifold back 1/2" will prove that true or false.
and checking compression is easy, 15min work,
there is my sneak a peek page.
made by a friend.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
what is frustrating, the mech., that fails to do compression then finds the spark time off and sets it back.(sets dizzy to wrong cam)
hiding the bad cam. and might run on test fuel, after all we don't know how many teeth its off .
or spins the dizzy to get it to almost start or does start and has 20HP engine now.
vast posts for that.
the displacement and CR set the compression, the EFI works for this engine and not a 80PSI engine, not at all, if way off , there is no hope,
don't forget cranking at 10% throttle and 100% , to find lack of air or flooding conditions
the newer cars have this new 10% rule. (smarter oper guides off this , so folks can drive home stranded)
and using a fast right foot to keep it going.
it also adds evidence to the diagnostic bag.
you have fuel , i bet the injector does squirt. cranking. and the pressure is 34 PSI cranking.
but i cant see you injector id need a video of that. to see how well it does. or not.
this covers every angle there is on injections, cross linked and all.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/injectors.html
below link, covers no starts, a much more complex topic, some engines start for 1 second and die. or stall all the time or fail to start cold or hot or either.
bad engine, Cat clogged, not 150PSI compression on all 4, old engine do this
bad spark 1 ,2,3,4 cylinder,
bad spark timing if discovered, is slipped timing belt. (or some yahoo spun the dizzy willy nilly. as some old shade tree mech, do. and fail)
if all that is good.
Bad fueling or bad fuel.
if the engine runs real nice on test fuel, sounds real good. its bad fueling or bad fuel. or????
keep in mind store bought instant start in a can will start a flooded, engine, fooling us in to thinking fuel starvation
the solution to that is looking at all spark tips, ahhhhh it is flooding, and at the injector actual, see it is injecting. and not burning that fuel.
beside basics above.
CHECK ENGINE lamp on key on, oops bad ECU,. bad lamp bad fuse. to ecu.
Diagnostic jumper>? shows code 12s cranking.? not 41's
its all here.
http://www.fixkick.com/nostart.html
compression test is 1st. (on all old engines, and will tell you its FUTURE, so we look timeserver, after all why put lots of labor$$ in a near death engine)?
then spark, tests, an engine with 80 psi is CAM belt slipped,x4, and will run with 80 pSI witih test fuel, just like that VW video i posted, even a 50psi lawnmower. does.
but not EFI, it will not run if the cam slipped, sorry it will not. Not under EFI contol, not right or at all.
if the cat is melted the test fuel should fail. dropping the exhuast header or racking the exh, manifold back 1/2" will prove that true or false.
and checking compression is easy, 15min work,
there is my sneak a peek page.
made by a friend.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
what is frustrating, the mech., that fails to do compression then finds the spark time off and sets it back.(sets dizzy to wrong cam)
hiding the bad cam. and might run on test fuel, after all we don't know how many teeth its off .
or spins the dizzy to get it to almost start or does start and has 20HP engine now.
vast posts for that.
the displacement and CR set the compression, the EFI works for this engine and not a 80PSI engine, not at all, if way off , there is no hope,
don't forget cranking at 10% throttle and 100% , to find lack of air or flooding conditions
the newer cars have this new 10% rule. (smarter oper guides off this , so folks can drive home stranded)
and using a fast right foot to keep it going.
it also adds evidence to the diagnostic bag.
http://www.fixkick.com