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Poll: Sand down sensor or drop oil pan?
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Modifying CKP sensor to work with oil pan gasket [96+]
#10
I bought a new crank cog, key, and bolt and the fit is the same. No improvement. I had driven 300-400 miles with the old crank cog and it was still tight when I took it off. Jammed (gently) some angled alluminum (L shaped) in the flywheel to hold it still.

DTC code has yet to come on for anything other than the EGR valve which seems to come on sometime around every 200 miles.

Should I still consider sanding down the CKP sensor? You say it should throw a code real fast if there’s an issue. If that’s true than my issue isn’t with the CKP sensor.

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the 1996+ will not run good with any P3xx errors of any kind,
EGR is P4xx codes, and means that 1 of 2 EGR tests fail. and is common. thus, if the EGR is sticking the car will LOVE to stall at every traffic stop.
that is because it closes just before it stops say at 1mph. speed.
the EGR caused stall will make the engine shake hard and misfire.

The I have no idea at all of sanding the CKP can make it work better (sure in magnet theory (faradays laws etc) but I have no idea at all how deep that plastic is, and so how far one can go, and not wreck the sensor, not me, IDK , i don't know.
The 1996 year added 1 new EGR test (A and b) and added a new EGR MAP sensor that is 10x more accurate finding bad EGR.
2 top fails are EGR main is bad, or the mono port Egr is packed in carbon.

http://www.fixkick.com/EGR-choice.html
http://www.fixkick.com
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RE: Modifying CKP sensor to work with oil pan gasket [96+] - by fixkick - 03-20-2019, 12:53 AM

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