the 16v and 8v have same block.
but not pistons.
the pistons are fitted by size to the block, how can you do that? and ring top. 8v pistons are not like 16v at all.
even standard piston sizes are in 3 grades.
the suzuki factory gang bores them new. and crudely, then matches the 3 grades to the results of the crude but fast and cheap bore job.
best is have it bored and new pistons fitted.
same deal with crank mains and rod journals. matched bearings. they gang grand these too, and is crude as have color coded sup sizes for each SIZE .
the only precision in the engine, are the block main caps, internal sizes, and the rod end cap and little end.
all else is color coded and matched in the factory.
just to a normal rebuild. is the the cure. (new bearings, rings and pistons)
the top of the block as code stamped there, 3,2,1,1 ( this the bore errors) (a wild guess by me now) but 3 is the #1 piston and is over bored.
they put a #3 marked piston in that hole. of you put a #1 piston out of the 16v there you get pistion slap un ending, doing it wrong the other way the piston fit will be too tight and the piston expands hot and seizes.
that is my very short history on that. factory fit up, if you understand how they made it, then this helps greatly
when a real machine shop does this all the above IS ERASED (how do you not know this is already true on either engine NOw? )
TODAY the crank is ground to very very tight precision and same with bores.
and we use modern, (not suz) parts to fit it, in fact we buy the pistons first, (after board gauged) and then bore it to fit each piston exactly, if need.
Top brand pistons new are very very precision and some of this is moot point, but is always checked, or bad happens. Pistons are precision cam ground now.
This makes rebuild more easy. That. (both crank journals and bores)
http://www.fixkick.com/SWAPS.html#G16Bswaps
but not pistons.
the pistons are fitted by size to the block, how can you do that? and ring top. 8v pistons are not like 16v at all.
even standard piston sizes are in 3 grades.
the suzuki factory gang bores them new. and crudely, then matches the 3 grades to the results of the crude but fast and cheap bore job.
best is have it bored and new pistons fitted.
same deal with crank mains and rod journals. matched bearings. they gang grand these too, and is crude as have color coded sup sizes for each SIZE .
the only precision in the engine, are the block main caps, internal sizes, and the rod end cap and little end.
all else is color coded and matched in the factory.
just to a normal rebuild. is the the cure. (new bearings, rings and pistons)
the top of the block as code stamped there, 3,2,1,1 ( this the bore errors) (a wild guess by me now) but 3 is the #1 piston and is over bored.
they put a #3 marked piston in that hole. of you put a #1 piston out of the 16v there you get pistion slap un ending, doing it wrong the other way the piston fit will be too tight and the piston expands hot and seizes.
that is my very short history on that. factory fit up, if you understand how they made it, then this helps greatly
when a real machine shop does this all the above IS ERASED (how do you not know this is already true on either engine NOw? )
TODAY the crank is ground to very very tight precision and same with bores.
and we use modern, (not suz) parts to fit it, in fact we buy the pistons first, (after board gauged) and then bore it to fit each piston exactly, if need.
Top brand pistons new are very very precision and some of this is moot point, but is always checked, or bad happens. Pistons are precision cam ground now.
This makes rebuild more easy. That. (both crank journals and bores)
http://www.fixkick.com/SWAPS.html#G16Bswaps
http://www.fixkick.com