dazedandconfused , did you highjack damnzuki post? y/n
answer, no. you lost your pass word and started a new user name, no big deal.
I see damnzuki post now, its a 1993. (2nd year, generation 1, 16v,) so now I know year.... took some work for me to figure all that out.
Compression facts missing:
done wide open throttle or near. (stated yes)
done hot or cold engine.?
done wet or dry (with added oil or no added oil?) dry is always first test.
done at what altitude? ??????
fails 2 ways. so far....
cylinder to cylinder variance 30psi (25%) is excessive...
and total pressure , too low. at sealevel (where are you, sealevel or in Denver Co.? 5000ft altitude.?)
all mine did, this,
My 97' pulls 185 PSI min. dead cold. (a new head) later and hot it does 195 PSI. (all 16v do this, its a bench mark, at sealevel)
looks like your cam belt slipped to me but id need full answer above asked.
one more question , did you let the needle peak out, watching it (2 man way) or just count seconds.(wrong) the web if full of bad advice here,
needle needs to peak and throttle 1/2 to full , full is better so less strain on battery, all spark out.. it must be allowed to peak or the bench mark is useless.
the throttle open , allows and engine to breath, the only natural path of air when cranking is the ISC, that can stuck so WOT cranking is for sure needed.
if done correctly only attitude changes the expectations , and is shown on my compression page.
(the engines compression ratio , is what makes the numbers, once altitude is known , pure physics here)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html#altitude
what car do you have.? suzuki or geo, 4wd , 4doors G16b 16valves, 5speed. 1993.
your attack strategy is perfect. first make sure engine is good, 1990s cars that is very very wise.
the top failure on these cars is ignoring the cam belt for 10 years, classic failure.
the belt slips (cogs) and compression drops, as much as 50% 200 now is 100.
like yours.
this suzuki engine can run with a slipped cam ,say one cog but will run like crap
lets pretend the compression (The 16v is 195 PSI. Seen in FSM chapter 6-6 (not 6A1) Facts., factory book spec, and I know for a fact its right)
your engine is way less than the old 89 ,8v, 155 spec.
engine good,
key on the CEL lamp must blow does it?
then running not, if it can made to run.
all fuses good. the pre 96 box looks like
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/fusep...knee1w.jpg
insert the diagnostic jumper.
into the DLC onnector. (paper clip unbend , magic tool)must be metal not plastic clip nor painted clips.
key on and count flashes, of THE CEL, 12 is good.
your DLC can be 4 pin or 6, but is just in front of the battery with rubber cap, as seen on my DLC page (data link connector)
here are all DLCs .
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
write down all codes. they came out , serially 1 by 1.
and repeats forever.
this is always first, after the compression test on all old cars.
conclusion, if done right the compression is horrible.
so engine is dead, bad, or as it seems all are, like this, the timing belt slipped.
if yes, see this.
the easy way to check timing of the cam.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
answer, no. you lost your pass word and started a new user name, no big deal.
I see damnzuki post now, its a 1993. (2nd year, generation 1, 16v,) so now I know year.... took some work for me to figure all that out.
Compression facts missing:
done wide open throttle or near. (stated yes)
done hot or cold engine.?
done wet or dry (with added oil or no added oil?) dry is always first test.
done at what altitude? ??????
fails 2 ways. so far....
cylinder to cylinder variance 30psi (25%) is excessive...
and total pressure , too low. at sealevel (where are you, sealevel or in Denver Co.? 5000ft altitude.?)
all mine did, this,
My 97' pulls 185 PSI min. dead cold. (a new head) later and hot it does 195 PSI. (all 16v do this, its a bench mark, at sealevel)
looks like your cam belt slipped to me but id need full answer above asked.
one more question , did you let the needle peak out, watching it (2 man way) or just count seconds.(wrong) the web if full of bad advice here,
needle needs to peak and throttle 1/2 to full , full is better so less strain on battery, all spark out.. it must be allowed to peak or the bench mark is useless.
the throttle open , allows and engine to breath, the only natural path of air when cranking is the ISC, that can stuck so WOT cranking is for sure needed.
if done correctly only attitude changes the expectations , and is shown on my compression page.
(the engines compression ratio , is what makes the numbers, once altitude is known , pure physics here)
http://www.fixkick.com/compressiontest.html#altitude
(01-24-2017, 12:45 PM)dazedandconfused Wrote: i did the compression it had 120,90,100,120 wot all plugs out. and they were black. the suv is a 4 dr,1.6 liter 16 valve engine.
the dash lights out are the illumination lights in the dash. ( which lamps, warnings or gauge back lights the latter is on a dimmer turn the dimmer knob up)
the suv is a 5 spd manual, with a new clutch cable.
it doesn't slip it just doesn't have power. (engine or EFI is sick)
i changed the filter both air and fuel. it was running good for awhile then slowly lost power so the owner stopped using it and parked it .
no owners manual and haven't been able to find a good shop manual. (we have both, the welcome post , first only you see on the forum shows the free books)
http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/s...php?tid=14
pm me, for oper guide. click my Icon link and pm me, your email i will send op guide.
plus no cover for the fuse box inside. (that cover is in my fuse page, go to fixkick.com
see 7 fuse boxes here
http://www.fixkick.com/Elect-fail-index.html#Fuses
it would help if everyone would let me fix it and not put there two left thumbs in it. (sure but first things first , no?)
what car do you have.? suzuki or geo, 4wd , 4doors G16b 16valves, 5speed. 1993.
your attack strategy is perfect. first make sure engine is good, 1990s cars that is very very wise.
the top failure on these cars is ignoring the cam belt for 10 years, classic failure.
the belt slips (cogs) and compression drops, as much as 50% 200 now is 100.
like yours.
this suzuki engine can run with a slipped cam ,say one cog but will run like crap
lets pretend the compression (The 16v is 195 PSI. Seen in FSM chapter 6-6 (not 6A1) Facts., factory book spec, and I know for a fact its right)
your engine is way less than the old 89 ,8v, 155 spec.
engine good,
key on the CEL lamp must blow does it?
then running not, if it can made to run.
all fuses good. the pre 96 box looks like
http://www.fixkick.com/power-elect/fusep...knee1w.jpg
insert the diagnostic jumper.
into the DLC onnector. (paper clip unbend , magic tool)must be metal not plastic clip nor painted clips.
key on and count flashes, of THE CEL, 12 is good.
your DLC can be 4 pin or 6, but is just in front of the battery with rubber cap, as seen on my DLC page (data link connector)
here are all DLCs .
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
write down all codes. they came out , serially 1 by 1.
and repeats forever.
this is always first, after the compression test on all old cars.
conclusion, if done right the compression is horrible.
so engine is dead, bad, or as it seems all are, like this, the timing belt slipped.
if yes, see this.
the easy way to check timing of the cam.
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/sneak-a-peek.html
http://www.fixkick.com