Timing question

[fixkick]

yes, static timing must be near 0 (5,8 and 10 are common) BTDC.
beyond that the piston will force the crank backwards, and fight the poor starter. (all bad, that, hard on battery and starter, "torture"

that is why staring at 0 is best. then when an engine starts, advance wakes up.
back in the old days say 1908 (lizzy days) you hand cranked, the engine, and if not hand spark retarded,it breaks your wrist.
or on any real Harley, motor cycle, we had to same , before each kick start, or you fly over the handle bars,,(not fun) so same with starters.
in this car, and most cars, vacuum advance wakes up first. and the flyweights are dead.

Perspective, (a mind set) one does not tune the distributor to match an alien carb (web) we tune only that Weber , to mech stock spark system
to do both takes a long hard work on a dynometer....
see why? ( answer, cant tune any vacuum advance and i bet filing advance weights is not fun, at 5000 rpm, or effective at tip-in , enrich mode.)
Why not change the accelerator pump linkage, first? a stronger squirt.?

the cam is ccw, like a g16b normally do. GOOD

The weber I have doesn´t have the egr port, just for dizzy, I checked it using a vacuum gauge, at idle it doesn´t pull vacuum.(GOOD)
you have the S-PORT as most do.. and is the correct port. (for the vacuum nipple to the REAR of the vacuum advance only)

I had the "bog off idle" problem with the weber, advancing the timing cure it, but then I decided to install the vacuum advance and the ping came and well, you know the rest of the story. So far no bog or ping, but lots of power.? (no ping?)
(if the G13 advances too fast or deep, why is that a surprise? (devils advocate) its the wrong part.
ever seen dizzy curves? Ill post that last so you can see how real books on cars cover this, sadly our SAMurai book does not,(last carb engine here)


The bog off idle is CARB issues, not spark , a weak set accelerator pump, the idle transfer ports setup wrong, or jetting.
Webers are great but also the most difficult to tune due to the many circuits... very very hard.


The vacuum pot I have installed has the routing to the ported port of the carb, so I only have vac adv off idle. (GOOD)

Talking about the mixture and jetting, I did enrich the carb by upping the jetting number, it came stock as Primary 140 Air Correct 170 and Secondary 140 Air Correct 160.

Before all these changes and with the pinging problem I went to Primary 150 Air 160 and Secondary 160 Air 170. It cure it somehow for a while and then it came back as usual.
I believe I can go back to the stock jetting for fuel economy, so far I am getting 25mpg, feels like an alright number for a carb.

There is one thing that bothers me.
The first time I installed the weber brand new I didn´t have ping, but I had the original vacuum pot which was damaged inside.
Later I bought and install the G13 vacuum pot and the pinging came (well its wrong part), now I have disconnected the vacuum pot, advance the timing and the engine runs better, I believe is quite advance now, but still runs much much better. "By sight" I am far beyond 8 degrees, still have to measure. Could it be that I am measuring wrong?

sure , with the front cover missing, easy to buy one? all G16b fit.

the 1.3L engine, is 300cc less displacement, and has weaker vacuum,(less suck) and will have a different vacuum advance device, but the 1.3L still needs strong advance, due to same fuel, same compression ratio. etc....same fuel mix... (AFR)
they make vast numbers of (did) vacuum advance pots, even by cars body weight.( and 10x more for smog)
if the diaphram on the G13 = G16 sizes then i bet the spring inside, is weaker, matching weak engine....
how to make a weak spring work right, and not over advance the G16, is a hard topic....

the vacuum advance is not optional,, unless you want weak off the line power and wasted fuel each time,
the stock engine setup runs rich fuel off the line (called tip-in, enrich mode) and runs strong vacuum advance to burn all that extra fuel and make huge power.
if the vacuum advance is defeated the stock carb would be rich, and would just not bet burnt, be wasted,
see how the AFR and Advance work , as a team?
race cars (in the day) would remove the vac, advance, and then run very aggressive, mech, advance, (they never idle or tip-in so its not needed, vac-pot-advance)
they run weaker fly weight springs, and get early mech, advance,,


for fun look at this, this is what Toyota (H3LL) did to make advance work like EFI. (joking 1'/2 way) be happy this is not your car.


btw: the EPA now admits they caused more smog than cured, do to this fact. above. (insane idea)




My guess, you are running that cam belt naked and no stock front 16v cover shield.
if true , now no timing marks, and if gravel gits up there or even sand it eats that cogs up to death, very bad,

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last graphic, will be how real books show all this, and lets the mechanic see what is correct and if not correct why it is not correct.
wrong parts, stuck parts. vacuum leaks, etc.
the curve is DUAL.
because its a dual system. one if or low end power, and other is for 5000 rpm power.
and from idle to 5000 rpm. correct .

its really 3 curves
1 vacu
2: mech
3: combined total advance. see?
but the best curves show all 3.
here is a jeep (there are 1000s to look at online, not one on G16, the rare car)

study this carefully
see that blue line this is RPM advance only, not every vacuum or engine load or car body weight. (nor hills) only RPM
now the pink this is total advance,
if you subtract blue from pink you see vacuum advance, performance and you can see its NON TRIVAL.
if you plotted HP or torque , and Vacuum advance, you'd see they are same. (near)
and if your G13 goes too high advance, sure it will ping. and 2x that if lean.
as you can see, having a book on your cars engine, is best, a book with this data. either as a table of data. or the nice curves below. (tops)


early jeep , last carb in USA, is 1994 Isuzu