all top brands of spark parts make rotors that fit.
Bosch fits, their , web page even states that, says, see this, " notice this locking clip fits, and fits only one way"?
just like the OEM Mitsubishi fits. having this fit wrong , allow the CMP hall sender in inside, fail.
it's not just the rotor fitting wrong , it causes the internal HAL reluctor tone wheel, to mis-align. ( you cant divide 3 into 4 and get a good fit)
bad bad to the bone are those trash, china no name rotors. (ah but only cost $2)
you have made no mistakes, the maker of this junk are guilty, a small horror , really.
first the cam must be timed correctly (DO NOT LOOK at the Dizzy doing the cam, or fail)
then with cam timed correct, turn the crank, 180 degrees CW, to TDC 0deg mark again, this is 1 firing, note the 60a mark on the cam cog is now at 6pm , 6pm is #1 firing.
now note the valve lash adjusters are loose on #1 (front is #1)
now we at #1 firing, if you blow test #1 it will, pass the blow tests. (no need really as lash is loose so how could it blow, unless valves burned up) , nah there ok...... you know they are...
now and only now, can the distributor be inserted.
mark the dissy base rim for #1 (can be marked with dizzy out of car, and best to do that be cause we are going to insert it the correct way, 11pm.) my photos above are very clear, (only a small parallax error )
next step mandates a real rotor. not those china crap rotors.... or all this is just a wasted doing this 3 times, would not be fun.
now insert the dizzy, it has 13 teeth, and the teeth are spiral cut, so as you insert the dizzy, the rotor will land in the wrong spot, (naturally)
no panic, its normal....
so remove it again and now back the rotor up, so that when you drop the dizzy in the hole, the rotor lands at 11 pm. (keep base screw slot about center.)
as you can see , this can be wrong 13 gear ways, and with the 3 rotor junkers, 3x13=38 way wrong and 1 correct. (of 39 ways)
the rotor is now at 11pm, lock the base.
put the cap back on,
now #1 is firing at 11pm, insert wire 1 to rotor 11pm post.
#1 is now working, next is 3. then 4, last 2, CW order, do not wire it like any G16B 16v)
start engine and do the running way to set timing correct with the timing freeze jumper inserted into the DLC connect next to battery.
The cam is timed here, doing this , this way below , is unambiguous, (im sure you have it this way) 60a up. TDC,
![[Image: 8v-cam-cog-close.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/8v-cam-cog-close.jpg)
real rotors, not from maker, "SOM TING WONG" below is ADVANCED AUTO, NAPA has good parts too.
![[Image: 3_19_05_16_7_51_34.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_19_05_16_7_51_34.jpeg)
the cam is in fact timed at #4 firing, 60a up, means just that. you cant do it any other way, the engineer, made the cam this way.....
the distributor is timed at #1 firing, ( if put a crank degree wheel in the crank pulley i can time it at ,1,2,3,4 , any. ) but the engineer used the mark for #1 and also works for #4 firing, if you move the strobe clamp to #4 HV wire.
see?
the distributor can be timed 39 ways. only 1 works.
i can also make #1 fire on the distributor be on any cap terminal , but 11pm the primary harness fits best.
one way to discover if the last guy timed the DISTRIBUTOR to the other 3 cap terminals is easy
put engine at TDC #1 firing, blow test #1 (if cam cog is not in view)
look at rotor, behold , what last guy did,,, there are 4 ways to time the #1 rotor stop point. 4 ways. all run perfect, only the harness gets upset, (fit)
11pm is factory way, see my distr, page and the suzuki drawing, its clear. This way matches the harness, design...
the real deal this drawing.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...age_7.html
here are more photos. i have this on my main timing pages
it shows how to correct the CHINA, malarkey (S,S,L) , i made this photo for the folks hell bent on using WRONG ROTORS, this drawing is useless to all BOSCH fitted cars. totally.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/dizzy-end1.jpg
more?
here is my painting 11pm marks using the cap terminals for exact locations.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...ge_22.html
the crank fires every 180degrees.
the cam every 90degree
one can use this degree wheel and check timing, markes or time any cylinder or cam, as you wish
http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/284...reeing.jpg
I also use a degree wheel to see if the crank pulley marks are not wrong. the damper pulley guts can strip out. (rubber goes loose inside)
I use a TDC finder tool to discover this little horror.
when i build and engine , I assume all factory marks are wrong, and prove other wise. for sure that funky pulley.
Bosch fits, their , web page even states that, says, see this, " notice this locking clip fits, and fits only one way"?
just like the OEM Mitsubishi fits. having this fit wrong , allow the CMP hall sender in inside, fail.
it's not just the rotor fitting wrong , it causes the internal HAL reluctor tone wheel, to mis-align. ( you cant divide 3 into 4 and get a good fit)
bad bad to the bone are those trash, china no name rotors. (ah but only cost $2)
you have made no mistakes, the maker of this junk are guilty, a small horror , really.
first the cam must be timed correctly (DO NOT LOOK at the Dizzy doing the cam, or fail)
then with cam timed correct, turn the crank, 180 degrees CW, to TDC 0deg mark again, this is 1 firing, note the 60a mark on the cam cog is now at 6pm , 6pm is #1 firing.
now note the valve lash adjusters are loose on #1 (front is #1)
now we at #1 firing, if you blow test #1 it will, pass the blow tests. (no need really as lash is loose so how could it blow, unless valves burned up) , nah there ok...... you know they are...
now and only now, can the distributor be inserted.
mark the dissy base rim for #1 (can be marked with dizzy out of car, and best to do that be cause we are going to insert it the correct way, 11pm.) my photos above are very clear, (only a small parallax error )
next step mandates a real rotor. not those china crap rotors.... or all this is just a wasted doing this 3 times, would not be fun.
now insert the dizzy, it has 13 teeth, and the teeth are spiral cut, so as you insert the dizzy, the rotor will land in the wrong spot, (naturally)
no panic, its normal....
so remove it again and now back the rotor up, so that when you drop the dizzy in the hole, the rotor lands at 11 pm. (keep base screw slot about center.)
as you can see , this can be wrong 13 gear ways, and with the 3 rotor junkers, 3x13=38 way wrong and 1 correct. (of 39 ways)
the rotor is now at 11pm, lock the base.
put the cap back on,
now #1 is firing at 11pm, insert wire 1 to rotor 11pm post.
#1 is now working, next is 3. then 4, last 2, CW order, do not wire it like any G16B 16v)
start engine and do the running way to set timing correct with the timing freeze jumper inserted into the DLC connect next to battery.
The cam is timed here, doing this , this way below , is unambiguous, (im sure you have it this way) 60a up. TDC,
real rotors, not from maker, "SOM TING WONG" below is ADVANCED AUTO, NAPA has good parts too.
the cam is in fact timed at #4 firing, 60a up, means just that. you cant do it any other way, the engineer, made the cam this way.....
the distributor is timed at #1 firing, ( if put a crank degree wheel in the crank pulley i can time it at ,1,2,3,4 , any. ) but the engineer used the mark for #1 and also works for #4 firing, if you move the strobe clamp to #4 HV wire.
see?
the distributor can be timed 39 ways. only 1 works.
i can also make #1 fire on the distributor be on any cap terminal , but 11pm the primary harness fits best.
one way to discover if the last guy timed the DISTRIBUTOR to the other 3 cap terminals is easy
put engine at TDC #1 firing, blow test #1 (if cam cog is not in view)
look at rotor, behold , what last guy did,,, there are 4 ways to time the #1 rotor stop point. 4 ways. all run perfect, only the harness gets upset, (fit)
11pm is factory way, see my distr, page and the suzuki drawing, its clear. This way matches the harness, design...
the real deal this drawing.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...age_7.html
here are more photos. i have this on my main timing pages
it shows how to correct the CHINA, malarkey (S,S,L) , i made this photo for the folks hell bent on using WRONG ROTORS, this drawing is useless to all BOSCH fitted cars. totally.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/dizzy-end1.jpg
more?
here is my painting 11pm marks using the cap terminals for exact locations.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slides...ge_22.html
the crank fires every 180degrees.
the cam every 90degree
one can use this degree wheel and check timing, markes or time any cylinder or cam, as you wish
http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/284...reeing.jpg
I also use a degree wheel to see if the crank pulley marks are not wrong. the damper pulley guts can strip out. (rubber goes loose inside)
I use a TDC finder tool to discover this little horror.
when i build and engine , I assume all factory marks are wrong, and prove other wise. for sure that funky pulley.
http://www.fixkick.com