11-06-2015, 08:06 AM
the suzuki partnumbers are IDENTICAL. (block , rod and crank) same. need the pages , have them all.
cant get more same than that.
no the block is the same, and crank the rod too, has the same part numbers, 8v and 16v. I'm sure the pistons are all the same gram weight, so.. that magic allows the cranks to be same. see? why? and so is rods and same weight. (saves suzuki a fortune doing just that)
in a race shop we'd grind every rod and piston, to make all exactly same weight, rods same, pistons match. or more.... (custom balanced cranks) etc.....
sized to fit.sure, as are all engines made. (you can not just buy pieces and bolt any engine together.)
the bearing come in over 10 factory sizes. (clearances new)
my overhauled engine page covers this.
shell of it? (means block?)
you blew the 16v
and want to use the 8v? block, (called shell?)
the problem is fitting 16v pistons onto a 8v block assembly.
the bores will not match exactly.
there are bore grades just in STD sizes. alone. 2 sizes STD grade. (1 and 2)
on the top deck of both blocks are stamps. (embossed by humans)
1221, (or 2121, or 1112 ,etc)
this means 1221, #1 is size 1, and #2 bore is size 2 hole. and so on, try to match that and not put a #2 in a #1 hole.
also some engines have over sizes new pistons, a real show stopper that. (mixing parts)
short story.
in the factory, the crank shaft and block bores are ground in parallel, (called GANG bored or ground)
(fast ! but crude and cheap, compared to our machine shop here in town)
when the parts come of that line, they are measured and graded , with color codes and stamps.
see those 1221, stamps on top of top deck? that is piston variance.
see the same like marks, on the crank throw face (stamps). telling the man assembling engine, which of 10 bearing sells fit. SEE?
so what do we do , just mixing parts up kinda willy nilly?
well, do not mix parts. unless we must.
do at least use "Pastigage" on all bearings to see if the clearances are right, that is, why the rod threw, clearances were not right but too loose.,i bet.
(assuming not loss of oil pump or oil that looks like milk chocolate?)
you never said how the front #1 piston did, when the rod went. is it ok?
many times the rod wrecks the piston with rod..
so if true, you need a correct piston, and 8v is not it.
murphy law says the one step you skip, will be the first failing link.
cant get more same than that.
no the block is the same, and crank the rod too, has the same part numbers, 8v and 16v. I'm sure the pistons are all the same gram weight, so.. that magic allows the cranks to be same. see? why? and so is rods and same weight. (saves suzuki a fortune doing just that)
in a race shop we'd grind every rod and piston, to make all exactly same weight, rods same, pistons match. or more.... (custom balanced cranks) etc.....
sized to fit.sure, as are all engines made. (you can not just buy pieces and bolt any engine together.)
the bearing come in over 10 factory sizes. (clearances new)
my overhauled engine page covers this.
shell of it? (means block?)
you blew the 16v
and want to use the 8v? block, (called shell?)
the problem is fitting 16v pistons onto a 8v block assembly.
the bores will not match exactly.
there are bore grades just in STD sizes. alone. 2 sizes STD grade. (1 and 2)
on the top deck of both blocks are stamps. (embossed by humans)
1221, (or 2121, or 1112 ,etc)
this means 1221, #1 is size 1, and #2 bore is size 2 hole. and so on, try to match that and not put a #2 in a #1 hole.
also some engines have over sizes new pistons, a real show stopper that. (mixing parts)
short story.
in the factory, the crank shaft and block bores are ground in parallel, (called GANG bored or ground)
(fast ! but crude and cheap, compared to our machine shop here in town)
when the parts come of that line, they are measured and graded , with color codes and stamps.
see those 1221, stamps on top of top deck? that is piston variance.
see the same like marks, on the crank throw face (stamps). telling the man assembling engine, which of 10 bearing sells fit. SEE?
so what do we do , just mixing parts up kinda willy nilly?
well, do not mix parts. unless we must.
do at least use "Pastigage" on all bearings to see if the clearances are right, that is, why the rod threw, clearances were not right but too loose.,i bet.
(assuming not loss of oil pump or oil that looks like milk chocolate?)
you never said how the front #1 piston did, when the rod went. is it ok?
many times the rod wrecks the piston with rod..
so if true, you need a correct piston, and 8v is not it.
murphy law says the one step you skip, will be the first failing link.
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