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Can't read CEL
#1
Hello All, Have a 94 geo tracker. misfiring pretty bad and the coolant temp gauge on the dash does not work. Check Engine Light ON. I can't get the light to flash to check the code. I have tried using different wires and pin combos (I started bridging 2 + 3) is there something I am missing?
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#2
(12-19-2019, 01:17 AM)eggsalads Wrote: Hello All, Have a 94 geo tracker. misfiring pretty bad and the coolant temp gauge on the dash does not work. Check Engine Light ON. I can't get the light to flash to check the code. I have tried using different wires and pin combos (I started bridging 2 + 3) is there something I am missing?

any ideas?
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#3
(12-19-2019, 01:17 AM)eggsalads Wrote: Hello All, Have a 94 geo tracker. misfiring pretty bad and the coolant temp gauge on the dash does not work. Check Engine Light ON. I can't get the light to flash to check the code. I have tried using different wires and pin combos (I started bridging 2 + 3 this is WRONG) is there something I am missing? yes lots.
the DLC connector Diag, logic connector next to the car battery, is 4 pin or 6,  which is yours?

sure what , engine is it?,  8 or 16valves
there are 2 cars, one with NAG light (CEL) one with out, NAG is the smog  timer mode. the the other card, does not have that.
The hood sticker is first, open hood, look  up and under, see that huge Suzuki sticker there, ? sure do you do, the on the last lines if the words California are the you have no NAG switch.
The Federal USA car only has this NAG switch
the location of said switch varies by engine, unstated and year. see unified photo in link below.

https://fixkick.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html

what I do is remove the nag switch completely, ending that pain, it was for cars back then with both leaded and unleaded fuel those days are gone now and the switch timer is Useless. today.

the diag DLC jumper is here.   (4pin) B to C
(6pin) 2 to 4 jump.
https://fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html

then with the NAG defeated (fed cars)
you then get flash codes called DTC. trouble codes.
seen here

https://fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes


The federal car if the NAG is active the DTC flash code are now dead. (silly no?) only for the silly reason the CEL lamp is shared. 
flash codes DTC jumped at DTC works key on, running or even driving car. (nag turned off )

fed nag switch removed. mileage CAT timer FED. the fun parts is suzuki moved it 3 times.  just to keep Federal owners, busy.(sarc off)
[Image: miles1w.jpg]


these cars, 89-95 with the words Calif. HAVE NO NAG switch at all, only the federal car.
[Image: Geo91CaL.jpg]
http://www.fixkick.com
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#4
Photo 
Mr fixkick, thank you for answering so thoroughly, I did leave out a lot of info, sorry about that.
This Tracker has the 8v. The sticker under the hood does not say California. 
The DLC connector has 4 pins. I incorrectly referred to the pins with numbers 2 + 3 when I meant B + C.  

I found the NAG switch. I took apart the gauge cluster and removed the NAG switch connector (which had pink and green wires). I tried to read the codes again with the NAG switch removed but still do not see any flashing in any state -- ignition on, cranking, or engine running. I am using a piece of wire. The light is still on, so I assume then we know it's a real code and not a NAG light coming on. What am I missing sir?


Also, there are a few wires going nowhere next to the DLC connector... What is the single wire (orange) pictured far right in the photo I attached? I found The temp gauge sender located under the thermostat was broken off. I replaced it and wired it up but I can't figure out where the heck it is supposed to go.


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#5
(12-20-2019, 06:06 AM)eggsalads Wrote: Mr fixkick, thank you for answering so thoroughly, I did leave out a lot of info, sorry about that.
This Tracker has the 8v. The sticker under the hood does not say California. 
The DLC connector has 4 pins. I incorrectly referred to the pins with numbers 2 + 3 when I meant B + C.  

I found the NAG switch. I took apart the gauge cluster and removed the NAG switch connector (which had pink and green wires). I tried to read the codes again with the NAG switch removed but still do not see any flashing in any state -- ignition on, cranking, or engine running. I am using a piece of wire. The light is still on, so I assume then we know it's a real code and not a NAG light coming on. What am I missing sir?


Also, there are a few wires going nowhere next to the DLC connector... What is the single wire (orange) pictured far right in the photo I attached? I found The temp gauge sender located under the thermostat was broken off. I replaced it and wired it up but I can't figure out where the heck it is supposed to go.

not calif, is fed. sure. and nag switch is there now gone, great. prefect.

the CEL glows steady,
4pin B to C ( what pins you call them is no matter ) what matter is the index clip in side, as reference point,
your are not missing anything I can see.
those extra wires and plugs are, for AC options,, 2door car has  no rear wiper and extra wires for that. other things in the area, same are A/T box 3speed TCC relay. if 5speed no wire there.

, the ECU seems to have bad CAPS, if they are bad the CEL Lamp goes dead or stuck on, or blink codes goe wild.

the DLC has new a rubber cap, i  , the wire colors are what mater. Blue-yellow   (blue with yellow stripe, ignore color dots when seen)

the Blue-yellow  wire found is jumper to ground and CEL flashes out codes, 12 = good.

so next step for sure is colors on the 4 pin plug, black are ground
'
http://www.fixkick.com
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#6
(12-20-2019, 06:46 AM)fixkick Wrote:
(12-20-2019, 06:06 AM)eggsalads Wrote: Mr fixkick, thank you for answering so thoroughly, I did leave out a lot of info, sorry about that.
This Tracker has the 8v. The sticker under the hood does not say California. 
The DLC connector has 4 pins. I incorrectly referred to the pins with numbers 2 + 3 when I meant B + C.  

I found the NAG switch. I took apart the gauge cluster and removed the NAG switch connector (which had pink and green wires). I tried to read the codes again with the NAG switch removed but still do not see any flashing in any state -- ignition on, cranking, or engine running. I am using a piece of wire. The light is still on, so I assume then we know it's a real code and not a NAG light coming on. What am I missing sir?


Also, there are a few wires going nowhere next to the DLC connector... What is the single wire (orange) pictured far right in the photo I attached? I found The temp gauge sender located under the thermostat was broken off. I replaced it and wired it up but I can't figure out where the heck it is supposed to go.

looks like , car has calif hood on fed body, first.
the CEL glows steady,
4pin B to C ( what pins you call them is no matter ) what matter is the index clip in side, as reference point,
your are not missing anything I can see.
those extra wires and plugs are, for AC options,, 2door car has  no rear wiper and extra wires for that.

, the ECU sees to have bad CAPS, if the are bad the CEL Lamps goes dead or stuck on, or blinks are wild.

the DLC has new a rubber cap, i  , the wire colors are what mater. Blue-yellow   (blue with yellow stripe, ignore color dots when seen)

the Blue-yellow  wire found is jumper to ground and CEL flashes out codes, 12 = good.
So, bad ECU? I assume I must remove it and look inside to see if the caps are leaking? 
I really just want the tracker to run right. I feel as though it is an ECT issue since I have the temp gauge not working also. Thoughts? The temp gauge sender was broken. I replaced it but now I don't know where to plug it into?
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#7
the gauge uses a 1 wire sensor, only, temperature coolant H and L. (if you ground out that sensor wire at sensor the gauge goes to HOT max. (1 min test max)

i say clean those wires on the claimed DLC connector first, make sure the blue yellow is present.

make sure all 3 fuses are in place and good
FI
IGcoil
DOME (this one is ecu memory, check this,) the other 2 blown above make engine die. fuel and spark.

OK the BLue RED wire on your connector is DLC< but that wire is not Diagnostic wire, adjacent wire BLUE ,yellow is it and most be grounded to get CEL flash code. if not code 51, or 12, all others are very much hard failures.
51 is weak EGR , 12 is good happy code. other codes are bad sensors detected.
im still trying to find your orange wire, listed at rear wiper..
more later.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#8
is this car 4door car Y/n if yes that ORG wire there is for the rear wiper motor.
what transmission 3/4 5sp ( 5 is stick)
4wd?
http://www.fixkick.com
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#9
(12-20-2019, 09:55 AM)fixkick Wrote: is this car 4door car Y/n if yes that ORG wire there is for the rear wiper motor.
what transmission 3/4 5sp ( 5 is stick)
4wd?

No sir, 2dr
5spd trans
4wd
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#10
these ECU are all known (infamous) for BAD caps. for sure black large electrolytic caps for sure left rear corner largest one for sure if marked.
they dry out
leak
or explode,
crack
or make tiny volcano shape ruptures in the case sides.
the top X star is cracked,
the bottom on older Caps the bottom rubber plug in the cap is pushed out. bad.
the cap cases bulge. bad.
best is new ones from JAPan, Nichicon. Low spec, ESR and high temp, 105C not 85c.
RUBICON caps maker then are ALL BAD, (used ecu new ecu, in new box may be ok, seen on like that)
yours will be bad.
if the DTC diag pin is dead, and CEL glows and not flash the ECU is bad.

99% sure, or %1 bad ECU, not bad caps.

https://fixkick.com/ecu



my were to buy caps page
Nichicon is go to part.!!!

https://fixkick.com/ECU/cap-source1.html
http://www.fixkick.com
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