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2001 Chevy Tracker J20A Engine Issues
#1
I am new here and have not had luck finding any information online and was hoping I could get some clarification on some things about my tracker.

First some background on me, I am Master Certified Auto Technician for almost 20 years, have scan tool, dvom, all the tools I could possible need, so I know my way around vehicles.

Now the tracker, 4wd, 4d automatic.  all maintenance  has been done, fluids plugs, etc.  The first problem is when cold it idles very high, about 1500 to 1600 rpm.  Is this normal?  can I adjust this?

Next issue is poor heat in the cabin, blower works fine, new cabin filters, only getting about 140 degrees from the ducts and just does not warm the cabin very well.  The lower rad hose also is cold even after a long drive.  Temp never get above 190 on scan tool and electric fan only ever runs if I run the a/c in the summer time.  Replaced, water pump and thermostat, pump was leaking, got wrong thermostat first time installed correct one, upper and lower hoses, timing chain and all components, Evergreen off of amazon.   Also new temp sensor, shotgunSmile, and HO2 sensor 1, code for heater.  New intake temp sensor cause it would only read 47 degrees F max.  Also swapped out MAF and TPS from junkyard for shits and giggles.  Have Poor MPG also but i think its cause of low compression, have about 120 to 130 psi across the cylinders, if I add oil it goes up slightly.  Mostly city driving, about 16.5 in winter and 19 in summer with a/c running. 

Thank you for listening to my rant and hope if anyone can help me I will be able to return the favor.
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#2
800rpm hot right (AC off) !?
the cold start is exactly like that, the cold start idle valve does that. J20 has its own valve that is water heated see that? some are adjustable, and covered in the J20 FSM.
the engine coolant spec. is 203F, (with that thermostat) at the vents, in RECIRC or not ,if not hot core air mixes with cold outside air.

the themostat is  180F (82c)
ill get the real day 1 part number from suzuki parts lists I have.

120psi is horrible at sea level, (Colorado Springs 6k ft, co is low, ask if there) 160psi there
the test must be down warm/ hot engine, and throttle blocked open or the engine can not get air. OK?
199psi is spec, unless cam chain timed wrong.
off my compression page, "The J20a at 10k feet only does 140 psi , when at sea-level it does 199 PSI.  That is why engine power is way low here.  (thin air)"
https://fixkick.com/compressiontest.html

19mpg is max, on my 2004, for 4 years owned. (heavy foot caused) the G16 can do 28mpg with 2000lb 2door ! and your is not that. 4door far more heavy.

now lets do thermostat rules and odd things, use the J20 runs water backwards,  see that thermostat housing>? in the PUMP>?
that means 2 things, one it us unique for this car and the ECT is not located there, and the ECT will show hotter water temps at rear ECT on the head rear outlet. (odd no?)
and rule 3 is the bypass pipe 22 must be not clogged or the thermostat goes nuts. surges.

the heater only has damper valves, so the core runs at 180f

ok im wrong on 200f,  the j20 in suzuki 2001 and tracker are shows 180F (82c stamped) and at rockauto same. rock matches, suzuki book and pn/
suzuki shows 17670-77E00 (old) and dash 65D00 as match. 180f

the thermostat must have  rubber ring seal if not the stat floats and goes NUTS again.
the thermostat must not be put in backwards wax sided to pump side and jiggle bleeder hole UP.
page 6 and 11 here the IAC thermal only plunger,device, do you have this the j18 does, (sister engine)

https://fixkick.com/engine/18L/random.pdf

yes the RAD lower hose is cold hose, top is hot and

off my overeating page or too cold.
the goofy thermostat sucks in cold water and would go nuts if not for magic pipe 22.
hose 25 will be the most hot of all and that nipple port at ECT must not be clogged, or the heater will fail.
as you can see as the heater core cools (fan on core did that) the cooler water goes to the thermostat wax pellet.  and the themosate closes, and all points go hotter.
so 180f is head at the heater core. (unless themostat gasket ring rubber missing or hose 22 clogs.
if the IAC plunger id dead would not hose 19 or bypass be clogged, or any nipple in that chain..  I use IR gun pointed to IAC first, it must be very hot.
All engine heat exits (coolant) at ECT, ever drop of water, and also lands on heater core and IAC. (MARKED TB in RED) as in throttle body


[Image: 18L-RAD-flow1.jpg]
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
the 1500 rpm cold is EPA law, to get the catalyst working faster, (smog laws) and when cold engine ,less power and faster RPM allows driving car cold, and not stalling out.(in gear)
that IAC plunger deal has that.

ok looking at j20a , all it has no plunger iAC like 96-98 had. the IAC thermal device is below the TB bolted directly below the ISC electric valve bottom of TB.
that valve must get 180f water or will stick open
hoses must not be clogged to IAC, thermal valve, a.k.a. cold start idle valve. j20 , j20a, j20b and j23 are all different I know that but exact parts need to be seen first.
and Suzuki nor GM sell the IAC, but do ISC (electric yes , thermal only no) they expect you to buy $1300 TB.
your IAC is smaller version of G16B TB IAC same spot.
the IAC closes at 150F and idle goes to 800 NOW, and is regulated at 800 via ECU + ISC electric modulation.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#4
(12-14-2019, 04:10 AM)fixkick Wrote: the 1500 rpm cold is EPA law, to get the catalyst working faster, (smog laws) and when cold engine ,less power and faster RPM allows driving car cold, and not stalling out.(in gear)
that IAC plunger deal has that.

ok looking at j20a , all it has no plunger iAC like 96-98 had.  the IAC thermal device is below the TB bolted directly below the ISC electric valve bottom of TB.
that valve must get 180f  water or will stick open
hoses must not be clogged to IAC, thermal valve, a.k.a. cold start idle valve. j20 , j20a, j20b and j23 are all different I know that but exact parts need to be seen first.
and Suzuki nor GM sell the IAC, but do ISC  (electric yes , thermal only no) they expect you to buy $1300 TB.
your IAC is smaller version of G16B TB IAC same spot.
the IAC closes at 150F and idle goes to 800 NOW, and is regulated at 800 via ECU + ISC electric modulation.

Thank you for responding, I have looked through all your stuff online many times so thank you for posting it again.  I am used to the IAC controlling all of the idle speed on most cars, I will pull the throttle body and clean it and make sure the passages are clear for coolant to flow.  I will also redo the compression test again with throttle body held open, i never did that before, just pulled all 4 plugs.
I am pretty sure it is the rings that are the problem the engine timing is spot on and so is the ignition timing per alldata.  just checked it after driving 6 miles home and idling in drive way and nothing was at 180 degrees, I believe if the compression is that low it is not putting enough heat into the engine so it is not getting hot enough, cold day out 25 degrees F and this is with 3/4 of the radiator blocked with cardboard.  There is pressure at the oil fill cap, I believe the vehicle was not taking care of and the rings are screwed.  don't want to rebuild the motor, its just a daily driver.
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#5
(12-14-2019, 03:33 AM)fixkick Wrote: 800rpm hot right (AC off) !?
the cold start is exactly like that, the cold start idle valve does that. J20 has its own valve that is water heated see that? some are adjustable, and covered in the J20 FSM.
the engine coolant spec. is 203F, (with that thermostat) at the vents, in RECIRC or not ,if not hot core air mixes with cold outside air.

the themostat is  180F (82c)
ill get the real day 1 part number from suzuki parts lists I have.

120psi is horrible at sea level, (Colorado Springs 6k ft, co is low, ask if there) 160psi there
the test must be down warm/ hot engine, and throttle blocked open or the engine can not get air. OK?
199psi is spec, unless cam chain timed wrong.
off my compression page, "The J20a at 10k feet only does 140 psi , when at sea-level it does 199 PSI.  That is why engine power is way low here.  (thin air)"
https://fixkick.com/compressiontest.html

19mpg is max, on my 2004, for 4 years owned. (heavy foot caused) the G16 can do 28mpg with 2000lb 2door ! and your is not that. 4door far more heavy.

now lets do thermostat rules and odd things, use the J20 runs water backwards,  see that thermostat housing>? in the PUMP>?
that means 2 things, one it us unique for this car and the ECT is not located there, and the ECT will show hotter water temps at rear ECT on the head rear outlet. (odd no?)
and rule 3 is the bypass pipe 22 must be not clogged or the thermostat goes nuts. surges.

the heater only has damper valves, so the core runs at 180f

ok im wrong on 200f,  the j20 in suzuki 2001 and tracker are shows 180F (82c stamped) and at rockauto same. rock matches, suzuki book and pn/
suzuki shows 17670-77E00 (old) and dash 65D00 as match. 180f

the thermostat must have  rubber ring seal if not the stat floats and goes NUTS again.
the thermostat must not be put in backwards wax sided to pump side and jiggle bleeder hole UP.
page 6 and 11 here the IAC thermal only plunger,device, do you have this the j18 does, (sister engine)

https://fixkick.com/engine/18L/random.pdf

yes the RAD lower hose is cold hose, top is hot and

off my overeating page or too cold.
the goofy thermostat sucks in cold water and would go nuts if not for magic pipe 22.
hose 25 will be the most hot of all and that nipple port at ECT must not be clogged, or the heater will fail.
as you can see as the heater core cools (fan on core did that) the cooler water goes to the thermostat wax pellet.  and the themosate closes, and all points go hotter.
so 180f is head at the heater core. (unless themostat gasket ring rubber missing or hose 22 clogs.
if the IAC plunger id dead would not hose 19 or bypass be clogged, or any nipple in that chain..  I use IR gun pointed to IAC first, it must be very hot.
All engine heat exits (coolant) at ECT, ever drop of water, and also lands on heater core and IAC. (MARKED TB in RED) as in throttle body


[Image: 18L-RAD-flow1.jpg]

My coolant hoses look just like that, but my MAF is in the intake tube by the air filter, the thermostat is correct, got from napa, has the rubber ring on the inside.  I do not know if I have the thermal IAC plunger, nothing is mounted to the side of the TB that pushes on the throttle, it looks close to those pictures but there is no plunger on the outside of it.  If it is on the inside where the coolant flows behind a hold down with a philip screw on the passenger side of TB then yes it has that.  This is what it looks like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zuia0dqd7e4
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#6
Thank you for responding,
 I am used to the IAC controlling all of the idle speed on most cars, I will pull the throttle body and clean it and make sure the passages are clear for coolant to flow.  I will also redo the compression test again with throttle body held open, i never did that before, just pulled all 4 plugs.
the engine is and air pump, and the TV is closed cranking with only tiny air flows then,(for sure hot.warm)  engine only very very tiny air flow  then 250RPM cranks ,
sparks out
battery good and charged
TV blocked open 1/2 or more.
FI fuse pulled killing dead the 4 injectors for safety.
the 4COPS or 2 twin pairs of COPS have spark timing to set,  the CKP is frozen in place, with perfect timing by it for ever. but I have no 2001 FSM. to prove that nor can I see your CMP sensor, min on my V6 2004 was timing set. H25 engine.
the 4 low compressions should not bee, is this car 300,000 miles on ODOMETER and no oil changed or overheated 3 time? IDK.




I am pretty sure it is the rings that are the problem the engine timing is spot on and so is the ignition timing per alldata.
 just checked it after driving 6 miles home and idling in drive way and nothing was at 180 degrees, (what does this mean?)


I believe if the compression is that low it is not putting enough heat into the engine so it is not getting hot enough,
(this is never true, well outside ALASKA -50F the thermostat closes and goes to 180f) 
never seen any engine ever run cold at 25f ever, sure slow to warm up. but the thermostat does not go wonky at 25f,  for sure parked,
log your ECT readings via scans, for sure after 10 mile run then show idle speed temps oF ECT.

watch out pipe 22 must flow water or all bets off, this pipe must work or the thermostat will go NUTS , either hunt or stick wide open and coolant way way below 180f.
you said the heater is cool 140f  but in dash RECRIC MODE? do the test in RECIRC on the damper valve only (cab air only looped).
and when dash heater is weak what is ECT readings.

cold day out 25 degrees F and this is with 3/4 of the radiator blocked with cardboard.  ok that is cold but not super cold, its newer freezing not 0 F or -10 F)


There is pressure at the oil fill cap (blowby max), I believe the vehicle was not taking care of and the rings are screwed.  or the PCV is dead packed, zero flow.
don't want to rebuild the motor, its just a daily driver. (it will dictate to you)
boy  if 120psi is real x4 that is end of life, 199 is spec and real,  120 is sadly pathetic to the extreme even razer thing top rings or carbon stuck back inside the LANDs.
120 is doom, all else is side show.

so gauge in hand (if not sure test gauge lawn mower mine does 100pSI near your car said no.?) even 1967 vw bug does 100psi. super low compression ratio them.
plug 1 out
gauge in hole 1.
block open throttle , 1/2 way or more, warm engine best, (the engine is bored hot and is round hot, or warm , cold test are not any good no spec for it.)
crank it, see 190 or more PC you now know in 15min work the other tests done wrong, seen this VAST TIMES, done wrong.

if the cat is melted same thing happens.cant pump air.
let me say all four are not 120 , that is my bet , but sometimes id be wrong car with 500,000 miles on it. 300,000 is common on suz this old some still run great and very good compression. still
a good tech never trusts his tools we check the if reading are wrong in 4 holes
I even use shop air at 175PSI to the tool and if it read 110 the gauge is trashed.
199 might read 180 on 10%gauge.  not 120. but some gauges from down under are junk.
when doing compression testing DO NOT COUNT crank turns ,  let the needle peak , throttle blocked open some. (warm engine, for fast turns and round cylinders best)
compression testing is benchmarked tests,  to compare to spec, so must be done right or all is a waste,.
the stater will go about 250 rpm, flywheel.  not 50 no 100. that too must be right. normal warm cranking.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#7
I am used to the IAC controlling all of the idle speed on most cars,
yes, many cars today have one IAC>
but back in the olden days with slow CPU inside PCM and low memory  SPACE (history)
the old Car the EFI uses a thermal IAC> even the 2004 V6 did.
some books then show 2 IAC, I like to call the IAC thermal and ISC electrics idle speed controls electric. (for this era only 89-98)\
on newer cars the old thermal device is gone (not  my 2004) but they do it all with ISC. 

that means cranking the engine, key on the ISC must wake up first!, (like my jeeps did back to 1988 forward) and many times they got stuck unlike powerful IAC are wax powered and strong. never seen one IAC suzuki stick but (dead yes)

and the intakes are nasty with PCV and EGR black cloud of crap inside and the ISC sticks. gummed up. (classiC pain there)

theN later still all this is THROTTLE BY WIRE and motor driven TV, ending any need for any IAC or ISC. (Just a smart TV throttle plate and drive motor and 3 TPS wow and $$$$.)
wow photos.
the base of you TB shows ,me something old there,
2 small pipes , one is air I think and most times 2nd  is water.
what I dont know is if the water hose there, is to just heat the TB or is the IAC water hose.  IDK.
the suzuki parts list  shows no help .  on j20a,  Im sure a real FSM  2001 would help. Now I know why , it can't be removed like G16b can.1992 to 1999?

By looking on the WWW, there are very few photos of any TB 2001, J20a, and the few there are never tells year.
even ebay has none for sale used,  oops that was yesterday, www, is dynamic, yes.
omg one just popped up now.
see my photos,

[Image: YWOxm4M.jpg]

[Image: 4M0RMzN.jpg]

i have no answers on the above, Id have to trace out the 2 hoses (is that air or water and is the  hot water hose going to a real IAC thermal device,  that plate above smacks of thermal device to me. and the hex head bolt there hints at thermal adjustments not to change.
thank goodness it is sold on Ebay  with lots of photos.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#8
Alright lets slow down a bit, too much information and questions.  Vehicle has 120,000 miles on it.
Did compression test throttle plate open battery charger on it all plugs removed, dry test first.
1. 130
2. 130
3. 130
4. 140
Now wet, put a small amount of engine oil in cylinders
1. 180
2. 250  woah  that is weird
3. 220
4. 170
Now i did check each one twice and averaged the numbers.  now my gauge could be off it is old, but they seem consistent so I still believe the problem is the rings.  

I checked with my IR gun and none of the hoses where at 180 degrees, only the back of the t-stat housing and water pump where close at 170.

I removed the throttle body and cleaned it, in your second picture of the throttle body i call the electric one the Idle air control, that is what there are called.  Under that Philips screw and plate is a thermal spring and a small plastic plate, I should have taken a picture, o well.  you can adjust this with the screw a small amount and i will try tomorrow with a cold start.  I made sure that all the passages where clean, and that coolant passes through there.

I ran the vehicle at 1500 rpm with my scan tool for 20 minutes, ECT was at 192 and temp from ducts was 144 on full recirc.  I guess i will have to live with a mediocre heater.
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#9
(12-16-2019, 10:51 AM)Michael260 Wrote: Alright lets slow down a bit, too much information and questions.  Vehicle has 120,000 miles on it.
Did compression test throttle plate open battery charger on it all plugs removed, dry test first.
1. 130
2. 130
3. 130
4. 140
Now wet, put a small amount of engine oil in cylinders
1. 180
2. 250  woah  that is weird
3. 220
4. 170
Now i did check each one twice and averaged the numbers.  now my gauge could be off it is old, but they seem consistent so I still believe the problem is the rings.  

I checked with my IR gun and none of the hoses where at 180 degrees, only the back of the t-stat housing and water pump where close at 170.

I removed the throttle body and cleaned it, in your second picture of the throttle body i call the electric one the Idle air control, that is what there are called.  Under that Philips screw and plate is a thermal spring and a small plastic plate, I should have taken a picture, o well.  you can adjust this with the screw a small amount and i will try tomorrow with a cold start.  I made sure that all the passages where clean, and that coolant passes through there.

I ran the vehicle at 1500 rpm with my scan tool for 20 minutes, ECT was at 192 and temp from ducts was 144 on full recirc.  I guess i will have to live with a mediocre heater.
no big deal; the gauges is bad,  and engine is ok   , a new gauge will  right right, Im sure.
if mine did 250 ,id fling it into the swamp and let gators eat. WHOA. is right.
192 for the ECT is ok,,  but heater at 140 is not bad, any hotter and would burn people, if you lower fan speed the temp will rise . heater.

but yes,  the rings are bad, with that huge rise wet tested,  if engine was warm...
the rings set warm ;/ hot,  and not cold so Compression is always better warm or hot.

the cab heater might have clogged core tubes.?  or any related nipples in that loop for heater. sadly we cant check core heat at the core tank. (no access)
http://www.fixkick.com
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#10
the only way to get 250psi? (one of 2)
is using too much oil.  IMO.
1 squirt is par.
55cc combustion champers, ? on the g16b. does 195PSI. (CR dictates this)
if  one put it 25cc of oil the CR (compression ratio) would double. and compression too.
some 2L diesels do 300 PSI.
use only a small bit of oil, say no more 1/2 tea spoon, 5cc of oil, is plenty.
that 120k miles is tiny, sounds to me like the engine was overheat the block is warped.

j20a is 10.5:1 CR. and the Cam timing (valve overlap) defines PSI compression.
way2:
If your J20A has VVT variable valve timing, device, IDK what that reads, on any J20a,
the J20B has VVT and I do know reads more.
VVT: variable valve timing as seen on J20b
Most VVT devices default to " no valve overlap". (low RPM setting) and cranking, pumping MAX air. (be  fun to try, but I dont have VVT cars)
the VVT is retarded, key on cranked.

The VVT is mounted I think to the right front cam end sprocket if present.
for all sets of rings to be bad the PO would have to run in desert dust storm, with no air cleaner or a volcano, eruption, like Mt.Saint Helens  did (carbide, dust,
http://www.fixkick.com
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