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Another TCC Lockup question
Hi - I have just finished swapping in a 3 speed 3L30 from a 1991 (ish) tracker.  The transmission was swapped into my 1990 1.6L 8V Tracker that came with a 5 speed.  I have the kick-down cable/vacuum line attached and I've driven a a few times - i'm still trying to find a leak (I replaced the vacuum modulator, shift shaft seal, and dipstick o-ring, and pan gasket, but it still drips and continues to drip for days of non use).  It looks like its coming from the dipstick tube area, but I'm not sure......  I'm still not 100% positive I have the appropriate fluid level - I get very different levels at different heat levels......

The trans works good - shifts good, kick-down works, etc.

I have no TCC relay on my fender, so I decided to connect a manual switch to engage the TCC - I traced the white wire up from the Trans connector and traced that wire (I think its red with a green stripe) up to the firewall and spliced to a switch on the dash.  My thinking is when the switch is activated, I am putting 12 volts to the white wire through the switch(I verified this is the case with a test light), which should activate the TCC.

From a test drive, I can't feel the torque converter lock up using the switch.  My first thought was to replace the solenoid, but I don't want to pull the pan if I need to check something else first. 

I assume my switch to the white wire should activate the TCC?  Any other things to check?

BTW - fluid was pretty clean originally, and I ran several fresh quarts through it looking for leaks/removing pan, refilling etc.

type TCC in the search box at fixkick.com (here) the white wires is it, 12vdc makes the fluid solenoid open and the lock TC lock.
you are doing this right if the switch goes to white and other term on switch to 12vdc ignition feed wire, is used (IGCOIL )  this is how I'd do this , not wanting  new ECU.

the ECU must be marked US-AT for any ECU this year to do TCC lock ups.
your ECU IS US-MT manual trans.

The ATF fluid in all A'/T expands when hot, and must never be overfillled,  see how below.
The if you overfill it the fluid foams up an starves bearings and the go bad. fast.
the users guide is free and easy to find,
but here is the 1 page on topic off my AT pages,
hot means trans and engine are both same temperatures, 180f and takes driving car say 10 miles to gain full and true hot, on new cars the use temperature chart to get this right.
my jeeps have that, and demonstrates how important that is. (overfilling is #1 cause of tranny failure (not true and worn out caused)

best way to find leaks are (2 ways)
100% cleaned, the drive short distance (around the block) and look if fails repeat and try longer distance, but you will find it. just takes clean to start.
#2 using the ATF die key,  the UV lamp and dye key (comes with cheap UV flashlight, but is must caught fast,  old oil there will not glow, only new oil leaking and path to cause.

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