the HI/low Freon dual; switch and its power fuse.
dead, 0vdc out not 12vdc out normal.
this failure <
kills dead both relays AC< dead and no clutch no condensor fan can work, triple dead, if the fuse blows, the AMP is now dead, causing TRIPLE death.
that is how it works.
only you can learn not to fear the voltmeter, only you can find logic faults,
the hi/low switch prevents total destruction of the compressor and then junk from this damage flying into and wrecking the whole loop.
that is rule one in the AC world, do not let it go worse, never do that. we check loop pressure first. to avoid that.
is this clear?
rule 2: all inputs to the AMP if wrong shut off the compressor by DESIGN, each pin there has a purpose, if curious ask , or not./
BTW Not at anytime did you tell me the condenser fan is dead up front of the condenser core in front of engine RADIATOR core. not one time.
here is the list. again.
1: low or too high loop pressure. (always first check always never ending ) we use a tool here, a freon™ AC pressure gauge. all shops do this ask them to do it first, is this hard? no!
2: inputs to amp wrong. including fuses blown BOTH.
3: no ice freeze up of the evaporator core in the heater/AC fan box. in dash.
4: no engine overheat detected see switch related . 0v good 12v bad.
5: Amp shuts down if too cold out side below 50F,or 10C, (not your cause but is ON THE LIST OF TRUTH and real logic.)
6: Blue AC LED must glow (and blower) or shuts down.
7: Car not driving Wide open throttle,. it shuts down WOT, not your cause , as you are parked and it fails. (but is in the LIST)
8: no power or ground to AMP, bad wiring or fuses.
dead, 0vdc out not 12vdc out normal.
this failure <
kills dead both relays AC< dead and no clutch no condensor fan can work, triple dead, if the fuse blows, the AMP is now dead, causing TRIPLE death.
that is how it works.
only you can learn not to fear the voltmeter, only you can find logic faults,
the hi/low switch prevents total destruction of the compressor and then junk from this damage flying into and wrecking the whole loop.
that is rule one in the AC world, do not let it go worse, never do that. we check loop pressure first. to avoid that.
is this clear?
rule 2: all inputs to the AMP if wrong shut off the compressor by DESIGN, each pin there has a purpose, if curious ask , or not./
BTW Not at anytime did you tell me the condenser fan is dead up front of the condenser core in front of engine RADIATOR core. not one time.
here is the list. again.
1: low or too high loop pressure. (always first check always never ending ) we use a tool here, a freon™ AC pressure gauge. all shops do this ask them to do it first, is this hard? no!
2: inputs to amp wrong. including fuses blown BOTH.
3: no ice freeze up of the evaporator core in the heater/AC fan box. in dash.
4: no engine overheat detected see switch related . 0v good 12v bad.
5: Amp shuts down if too cold out side below 50F,or 10C, (not your cause but is ON THE LIST OF TRUTH and real logic.)
6: Blue AC LED must glow (and blower) or shuts down.
7: Car not driving Wide open throttle,. it shuts down WOT, not your cause , as you are parked and it fails. (but is in the LIST)
8: no power or ground to AMP, bad wiring or fuses.
http://www.fixkick.com