2.3 DOHC motor - correct operating temp

[thebanjoman]

now lets look at heat.  (engine to coolant)
see this great drawing graph...
in closed loop , the black vertical line is at stoich,
then if fuel goes lean to the right a bit, efficiency  rises , heat the the water jackets goes DOWN as the red line peaks,.
The reason we use Stoich is for low smog, not max HP see on gray cloud point.
Unless you go super lean (and felt in the seat of the pants) it will not run hotter coolant.
yes lean can burn exhaust valves tips. as the do get hotter, but not the water jackets. (this lean hot combustion lasts for shorter time, and does not expose the cylinder walls with more heat but less (yes complex that) that is why late timing puts  too much flame front on the walls, of the cylinder. bad for the cooling system that.

The leaning out, same fuel used (volume) makes more HP, and wastes less heat, until the cold air (oxygen) is so great the fuel is heating mostly air, and efficiency drops.
so lean only wastes heat if way too lean. waste heat is the inverse of the red line here.
not to mention once too lean the spark can not fire off the lean mix and it misfires.




I bet you , your engine is not overheating the coolant.  in fact a tad lean is less heat to the coolant.
misfire can be a cold slug of air.
or way too late to spark fire and then dumps lots of heat the the cylinder walls. just like late timing does. (and HP FALLS off FAST) felt..

I so appreciate you working with me on this,  so if you're correct and the engine is not overheating the coolant, and we are sure the ECT temps are correct (We are from the tests performed) 

What's next ??

  This weekend I am going to put in the new thermostat,   While I am at it since the coolant will be out I will take apart at the heater core hose connections and make 100% sure there is no obstruction or low flow of pipe 22 and the heater core itself (using your pic) since coolant comes from the back of the engine, through the heater core to the thermostat housing.  

I know we discussed that if there was obstruction the thermostat would surge but I am not experiencing this.

While I have the thermostat out I will take off the serpentine belt and see if I feel any play i the waterpump and put my fingers in and check all the impeller
blades.  

What I am doing is probably 'make work' but it will be piece of mind to me knowing that there isn't any obstruction.
  

 I spent some time today just looking over the system as a whole,    It was too hot in the shop today for me to want to pull apart the cooling system.

 Still same temps at idle. close to 240 .   Looking at the above diagram Coolant leaves the engine across the ECT and into the heater core, leaves the heater core into Pipe 22 and then onto the thermostat housing.

 I turned on the heat cabin heat with the thermometer with heat on low and the temp at the vent only got to 120.     

 If the heater core was operating properly, wouldn't we expect to see the temps out of the vent higher?   

 Could part of this temp management be because the heater core is blocked?      

 I am getting coolant to the wax pellet leaving pipe 22.

 Even though I used an air lift system to put coolant in I thought I heard a gurgling sound in the cab so there still might be air in the system.

 I forgot to also tell you that this Sport has a 2" body lift so the heater core is higher than what it is stock.  Could there still be air in it?

  I could also be totally full of SHI* at this point to, not knowing what I am doing.

  Back flushing the heater core was a big bust..  It was in very good condition I got very little rust out of it.

  At least I know that it's not plugged..  I didn't get a chance to change the thermostat yet.   That will probably be next weekend.