so with the cap off and crank at 0degree TDC mark and both valve #1 closed (lash loose #1 and tight #4 no lash) the rotor points to #1 wire, now if yes, the distributor is timed good enough.
You don't have one of this fake china rotors that fit on 3 ways,? unlike BOSCH that fits only 1 way do you, the new car it fits on one way and only one way, it has spring clip on the bottom of the rotor that for sure blocks 2 of 3 insertions, but the china crap is just that, junk. when you see on of those you will get real angry , for sure,,,,,,,
what that crap does is wreck he CMP to Rotor timing relationship, something you NEVER Want to experience.! end C4 rant (cheap china commy crap) C4, coined by a buddy here)
next up, is the missing part that gets lost at many engine pulls and swaps that very tiny, ignition suppressor filter module.
https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slideshow...-8v-1w.jpg
falls off and spark goes weak and fueling ends. (cuz brown wire dead, brown is tachometer signal, if tacho goes dead, on any G16, ECU cuts fuel hard. all do that)
The suppressor is located in left harness front engine bay, thumb-sized, see your spark only schematic below this is all it is. to make spark. (ECU included) as seen here.
https://fixkick.com/ECU/only-spark-16v.JPG
Test FUEL: hand brakes set, front wheel chocks set , tranny in park or neutral and 4wd in neutral if have 4wd.
Test fuel is best done , dry engine (parked over night) then
FI fuse pulled, (with throttle blocked open by hand a tad) then try test fuel engine runs for short time but sounds good.
sounds good means hitting on all 4 cylinders not less.... above considers engine is flooded to begin so we dry it out. then test with test fuel to get good test.
NEXT? ( let ECU tell you spark is bad, this can work, or not, depends how done) the 1 in 20 rule or some such rot. 1 CMP pulse in 20 list bam TDC sets.
CMP is in the base of the DIZZY.
insert diagnostic jumper in DLC, key on , see code 12 flash, out it code.
then:
crank for 5 seconds stop, see code 41 or 42? repeat 3 times, to make sure those 2 DTC codes are not showing 41/42, 12 = normal.
the goal here is try to get 20 CMP hits. 10 crank turns, = 20 hits of the CMP, if the ECU sees 1 drop bam DTC store.
The classic test spark plug setting outside spark well and grounded is 1 test, repeat 1,2,3,4 plugs, gapped at .028" never at 0.045" as the spark maker sets the out of factory.
beyond this classic test. https://fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showt...#sparktest
Beyond above,
checking spark is not really easy on any dead engine or lacking a SCOPE and magnetic pickup.
here is the test , not too hard but more steps.
The timing light works best lacking good Oscilloscope. even those cheap $20 are harbor freight (inductive pickup only)
SPARK TEST:
what can be done is this, battery charged even on boost charge.
FI fuse pulled so no fuel can inject now. or runs over test person in front of car. hand brakes set, front wheel chocks set , tranny in park or neutral and 4wd in neutral if have 4wd.
connect strobe light to #1 wire front HV spark plug wire.
point strop to crank pulley, person 2 cranks engine you see spark land at 0 tick mark outer rim of pully near 0. (this a classic timing step here, but most folks stop here)
stop, cranking and move move strobe to #3 (not a typo)
crank see strobe land at 180degr off exactly on pulley. AT POINT "B" below. good. (and its steady)
move strobe to #4 see spark land 0degr. POINT "A" again.
move strobe to #2 spark wire, see flash land on 180degr off, (from 0) at "B"
in each step, crank for 5 seconds to be sure it hits each time perfectly, the hits are solid and not skipped, so distributor is working,! end test.
if you get this far TEST FUEL works. (we know for sure the cam is timed right due to 180PSI x4. no false marks possible with that great PSI)
[img] https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tdc-look2.jpg[/img]
last and for sure, 97 parts related to spark put on any 95 is FAIL HARD the DIZZY is wildly different, as would be using 97 harness here on any 95. will not work.
here is SCOTTY tests, its not perfect but good. ( pretend HE says , bad engine , bad spark or bad fueling at the beginning) (or even bad fuel) the videos are time limited so must be terse.
Tha "hole" there is IAT sensor, and missing on 1992 sidekicks, oops, but we can even pull the maf and feed fuel there.
the fuel line trick finds dead pumps ONLY< never weak PSI, as a BAD FPR CAN DO.
PreAmble to scotty should say, check all fuses first, then scan for DTC errors for sure after 5 seconds cranking and release key and not turned off see if DTC SHOW. (41/41 or p0300s.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8...ature=fvwp
You don't have one of this fake china rotors that fit on 3 ways,? unlike BOSCH that fits only 1 way do you, the new car it fits on one way and only one way, it has spring clip on the bottom of the rotor that for sure blocks 2 of 3 insertions, but the china crap is just that, junk. when you see on of those you will get real angry , for sure,,,,,,,
what that crap does is wreck he CMP to Rotor timing relationship, something you NEVER Want to experience.! end C4 rant (cheap china commy crap) C4, coined by a buddy here)
next up, is the missing part that gets lost at many engine pulls and swaps that very tiny, ignition suppressor filter module.
https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/slideshow...-8v-1w.jpg
falls off and spark goes weak and fueling ends. (cuz brown wire dead, brown is tachometer signal, if tacho goes dead, on any G16, ECU cuts fuel hard. all do that)
The suppressor is located in left harness front engine bay, thumb-sized, see your spark only schematic below this is all it is. to make spark. (ECU included) as seen here.
https://fixkick.com/ECU/only-spark-16v.JPG
Test FUEL: hand brakes set, front wheel chocks set , tranny in park or neutral and 4wd in neutral if have 4wd.
Test fuel is best done , dry engine (parked over night) then
FI fuse pulled, (with throttle blocked open by hand a tad) then try test fuel engine runs for short time but sounds good.
sounds good means hitting on all 4 cylinders not less.... above considers engine is flooded to begin so we dry it out. then test with test fuel to get good test.
NEXT? ( let ECU tell you spark is bad, this can work, or not, depends how done) the 1 in 20 rule or some such rot. 1 CMP pulse in 20 list bam TDC sets.
CMP is in the base of the DIZZY.
insert diagnostic jumper in DLC, key on , see code 12 flash, out it code.
then:
crank for 5 seconds stop, see code 41 or 42? repeat 3 times, to make sure those 2 DTC codes are not showing 41/42, 12 = normal.
the goal here is try to get 20 CMP hits. 10 crank turns, = 20 hits of the CMP, if the ECU sees 1 drop bam DTC store.
The classic test spark plug setting outside spark well and grounded is 1 test, repeat 1,2,3,4 plugs, gapped at .028" never at 0.045" as the spark maker sets the out of factory.
beyond this classic test. https://fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showt...#sparktest
Beyond above,
checking spark is not really easy on any dead engine or lacking a SCOPE and magnetic pickup.
here is the test , not too hard but more steps.
The timing light works best lacking good Oscilloscope. even those cheap $20 are harbor freight (inductive pickup only)
SPARK TEST:
what can be done is this, battery charged even on boost charge.
FI fuse pulled so no fuel can inject now. or runs over test person in front of car. hand brakes set, front wheel chocks set , tranny in park or neutral and 4wd in neutral if have 4wd.
connect strobe light to #1 wire front HV spark plug wire.
point strop to crank pulley, person 2 cranks engine you see spark land at 0 tick mark outer rim of pully near 0. (this a classic timing step here, but most folks stop here)
stop, cranking and move move strobe to #3 (not a typo)
crank see strobe land at 180degr off exactly on pulley. AT POINT "B" below. good. (and its steady)
move strobe to #4 see spark land 0degr. POINT "A" again.
move strobe to #2 spark wire, see flash land on 180degr off, (from 0) at "B"
in each step, crank for 5 seconds to be sure it hits each time perfectly, the hits are solid and not skipped, so distributor is working,! end test.
if you get this far TEST FUEL works. (we know for sure the cam is timed right due to 180PSI x4. no false marks possible with that great PSI)
[img] https://fixkick.com/IGN_timing/tdc-look2.jpg[/img]
last and for sure, 97 parts related to spark put on any 95 is FAIL HARD the DIZZY is wildly different, as would be using 97 harness here on any 95. will not work.
here is SCOTTY tests, its not perfect but good. ( pretend HE says , bad engine , bad spark or bad fueling at the beginning) (or even bad fuel) the videos are time limited so must be terse.
Tha "hole" there is IAT sensor, and missing on 1992 sidekicks, oops, but we can even pull the maf and feed fuel there.
the fuel line trick finds dead pumps ONLY< never weak PSI, as a BAD FPR CAN DO.
PreAmble to scotty should say, check all fuses first, then scan for DTC errors for sure after 5 seconds cranking and release key and not turned off see if DTC SHOW. (41/41 or p0300s.)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8...ature=fvwp
http://www.fixkick.com