that key has huge errors there in degrees
that I know one guy that hadd one this bad
and removed the crank, (skipping a new crank $400) so took his to machine shop pro.
the they using #1 rod crank journal center line...
found and marked the true TDC on the snout .
then machined a new, long key, lone straight key, not woodruff, key not 1/2 moon like suzuki
using a brand new cog and they measured mm slot of new cog exactly and key slot in cog height, (inside cog key slot)
then found new key matching same. cog key width. ( about 2 times, cog key slot height)
then fly cut a new key into the snout,
next almost the same...
or as one guy did, listen carefully.
he cut a new key on the back side of the snout exactly and perfectly 180degrees from normal. (crank is out of car, and TDC actual marked with great care)
then took the stock cog wheel and moved the mark on it 180degrees from normal
this is all you can do with very bad snouts and no $400 for a new crank.
that I know one guy that hadd one this bad
and removed the crank, (skipping a new crank $400) so took his to machine shop pro.
the they using #1 rod crank journal center line...
found and marked the true TDC on the snout .
then machined a new, long key, lone straight key, not woodruff, key not 1/2 moon like suzuki
using a brand new cog and they measured mm slot of new cog exactly and key slot in cog height, (inside cog key slot)
then found new key matching same. cog key width. ( about 2 times, cog key slot height)
then fly cut a new key into the snout,
next almost the same...
or as one guy did, listen carefully.
he cut a new key on the back side of the snout exactly and perfectly 180degrees from normal. (crank is out of car, and TDC actual marked with great care)
then took the stock cog wheel and moved the mark on it 180degrees from normal
this is all you can do with very bad snouts and no $400 for a new crank.
http://www.fixkick.com