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x-90 P0335 code
So the new distributor arived today, it was a cheap part to throw at this but i figured i would try. Still get the code. The old one was in bad condition anyway but i figured out that you CAN rebuilt them. Not sure why the parts are not available.
A new distrib or rebuilt is a good thing on old cars like this. we can not burn fuel (gas) with bad spark. A good IDEA new distrib.

I do see the sheathing on mine but there is nothing around to create signal were the sheathing is not on it.

I looked all over for where it might be grounded in the engine bay and near the ecu but i cant find anything that looks like it.
Sadly I have no X90 ECU drawings, and are very hard to find on this rare car.
The 96 tracker pins are pin 16 and 17, and are colored. org-blue (means orange with a blue strip(ignore dots) and White-blue.
maybe the x90 uses the same colors, there is a good change it does.
the org wires are not common, that color is very unique on our ECU pins.

The harness was ran right over the alternator so i moved that so its not near it.

Thought this might fix the problem but it did not.

That 2pair wire to CKP does in fact go into the main harness, in the engine bay then does in fact go Through the fire wall, and into the dash board
hardness and does arrive at the ECU on those 2 pins named the same (CKP pair)
this long run of wires does in fact go past vary electrically noisy circuits!, and in fact the shield on that cable (not there for fun) keeps said noise out of the ckp pair, both inductive noise (magnetic) and capacitively coupled noise.
all you saw as the short pair, the trip to the ECU, is a long trip, meandering to the ECU, and was shielded cable, for very very good reasons.
there may be connectors in that long path that are not documented anywhere on earth. (harnesses are very complex)

try to consider 2 facts. (the CKP is now too far from the tone wheel, pan gasket stand off)
the CKP signal will be weaker, for this 1 fact.
and now the ckp signal to noise ratio will be much poorer for sure at low idle speeds.

My next move is the run new wire and then i am all out of ideas aside from replacing the ECU.

do run only 2 pair shielded cable. with only the ecu end ground to the shield just like suzuki did.

wire of this type


things that make noise. in cars. 101.
the alternator makes huge noise, and even more noise if 1 of the 3 phase output diode rectifiers are bad, or omg worse shorted.
with the radio on AM and off station (between) hear the whine of any alternator for sure bad, or not quite right, but still charges battery.
all ignition both primary and for sure secondary HV side makes tons of noise.
the AC clutch kicking in and out , omg noise huge, if you have AC .
The wiper motor noise. (blower fan in dash too)
about the only thing quiet in cars is lighting of any kind stock.
also I bet no 2 harness ever made even same year have wires laid down inside the same, so some may be more noisy that others. (luck of the draw)
they are hand made those harnesses.
some have crimp connectors not documented in the middle of some harnesses. (Y- crimps , or ground wires tied all together crimped then go to car body with a ground lug. (if loose oh boy, trouble)

even 2 wire shield Guitar wire works.

ever hear and electric Guitar , hummmmmmm 60Hz. hum. that is the shield broken! and just like the CKP , would fail.
also , some CKP sensors may work better, some may put out more signal at 800RPM
lacking facts from SUZUKI a marker of CKP might test the stock sensor for output them make theirs better. (suzuki charges last I heard $4000 just to get this information from them)
What I use is a real scope to see what is really there.
at idle.
500mV clean signals. (0.5v or 1/2 volt is same)
dead. signal.?
or 500mv and 400mv noise. at the same time. only a scope sees the truth. nothing else.
even the most crummy cheap or old $50 relic scope can see this signal, the frequency is very low, easy to see.
Ill get you some photos of everything so you can see it all for yourself. Iv been meaning to do so. just so you know if im doing everything right.
Cam timed at cylinder 4

Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
Crank Timed with new key installed and torqued tight.

ECU in this 96 2wd manual x-90
Stock Crank Sensor that you can kinda tell i shaved the base down to get it closer. Took it down close to a 1/4 inch (way more than i needed to but not close enough to touch the reluctor wheel)

New plug with wires routed to rear of pan away from alternator.
Not far back from the plug the wires are attacked back to the original harness and sheathed wire.
I found some sheathed wire laying around and unplugged the plug and plugged this sheathed wire into it and ran it to the back of the ECM. I grounded the sheathing inside the cab and ran the signal to the back of the plug on the ecm. This should work in a similar manner as the original wire. It may look like the alligator clips are touching but they are not. You can see on the voltmeter there is 1 volt AC being produced at idle. The code was still thrown. The old crank sensor as well as the new one have OHM readings around 450 Ohms and thats within spec.
Cheap Chinese alternator but better than the stock one at this moment.

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