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x-90 P0335 code
I am sorry too that suzuki does not spec out minimum CKP signal at the input of the ECU, sad. no?
1000 mV, (1v)
id guess at 500mv, (1/2 a volt) but I am not sure.

your point on distributor bad, is possible. (a theory)
the maker suzuki does not spec out the relationship of the CKP to CMP. for 335 errors (just drop outs)
this engine runs with no CKP present. (unlike all other cars)
so this odd fact makes it hard to know what 335 causes can be (all)....
but the CMP also dumps a code for 1 pulse in 20 missing too.
As i have purchased a new sensor through all this and no luck, ill shave down the old sensor a little and see if that helps

Ill source some shielded wire and run new wire and see if that helps. When i tested the signal at the ecu, i picked up both AC and DC voltage. The AC voltage would change with RPM but the dc really didnt. I picked up very little dc voltage but got upwards of 1 volt AC.

I dont see any gasket material at all on the pan so im guessing there is none and the distance is right.

If the CMP needs replaced, then the whole distributor must be replaced and is expensive, too bad those components cant be replaced on their own.
Ok so i took a closer look and yes some one put a gasket on the oil pan. I shaved down the sensor and got up to 5v AC when reved up but no DC voltage.

When i shaved the sensor the car ran without throwing a code until i revved the engine. Then suddenly the code popped up. This is the first time the motor has started and not throw the code immediately.

The wiring is good and i have almost no resistance from the plug to the ECM. The ECM is getting that 5v AC signal. If there are dropouts, they sure were not noticeable on the DMM.

Removing the pan on these 2wd vehicles is easy and I dont mind doing it but how is the mating surface prepped if no gasket or sealant is used?

Also i have a feeling thats not going to fix the issue so im going to purchase a new distributor. I hate to throw parts at this car but Im at a loss. The oil pan needs to be taken care of regardless.
it seems the gasket IS RTV but is on their pretty thick
the problem with this issue is.
1: the factory used RTV then pressure tested it, for perfect seal.
2: the suzuki dealer does not sell a gasket for the pan. Go on line see that fact at suzuki parts, real OEM pages.
3: the aftermarket does sell it but , is not always going to work. (ckp issues)
4: the aftermarket sellers do sell it and is for 89-95, only. (some lie and say up to 1998 )
5:the makers of those pan gasket parts make gaskets from 1/16th inch thick, and up to 3/16" there is no spec on this due to rule #1.

yes, looking at the pan it is really hard to tell what is there, most are with ORANGE RTV (02 safe color code or blue) some folks use a gasket and RTV , oops.

quote='CSUSBgeochem1' pid='11415' dateline='1554427858']
it seems the gasket IS RTV but is on their pretty thick

here is 95 being done

see orange RTV factory sealant peaking through here,?

fact 2:
the closer the CKP is to the tone wheel (no wheel tips damaged) the more signal you get.
the faster the RPM the more signal. (so idle is worst case 800rpm)
the CKP was added in 1996 in USA to comply with the USA EPA rules and on misfire detection, laws. P30x codes are those.
The ECU sees the Crank slow down on the fly and this is how misfire is detected, no CKP, no P030x codes possible P0300 to P0304. (and zero chances to pass smog here , USA)

see more orange here. 8v

the gap there if you look real close is very thin , the RTV squishes down, then very thin, 7 ft/lbs on each bolt torqued, and 16 bolts.? yes squishes flat, 8v or 16v same deal, only 96, up is tricky!
could a clicky starter cause this issue?? I was thinking really hard about wiring hacks and completely forgot the PO put in a relay for a clicky starter fix. Without it, the car will not start. Im wondering if this could be connected. The sidekick i own doesnt need the clicky starter fix and works fine on its own. Im wondering why this 16v is not working the same. Considering just replacing the starter.
if you look at the real suzuki parts books, Factory real not fake! JUST DID 89 to 2005.
89-2005 all engines there, have no pan gasket. not one. G16a, b , j18,j20, h2x v6 series.
USA only, cant do all countries, unless someone tells one.
Adding parts not stock can have consequences.
but in all cases of the CKP there are like 10 brands and no man on earth knows if all 10 brands, work the pan STOOD off at 3/16" , nobody, (until someone does, and will never be me)
if I had my 96 now , I'd even stand mine off for you and see where 335 POP. (distance) and for sure will at some distance . IDK. But we know for a fact others have put the pan gasket there and for sure got 335, this is a fact posted many times world wide on many forums.

the T90 engines but is not sold here, I only search USA not all 50 markets nor diesels.

the best way to find this is with a scope at ECU pins pair, and see what you have at 800rpm.
here is my ckp, see that funny bunch of frizzy wires. this is the open ended shield. (do not ground both ends, or you get a ground loop and that too makes noise)
it must be open, on this end and grounded to the body near ECU or better , ecu base grouned, on the other end ECU side.
see that is a shielded cable, it is shield because the signals are small and any noise pickup on the wires (inductive) will make the ECU go nuts.
just like microphone cable is shielded for the same reasons. (small sig)
In your mind wonder how that cable runs in that huge harness. and all the other wires there making noise that you do not want to couple into the CKP fire feed. (shielded it is)

as you can see the sensor fits pan NOT THE BLOCK or pump base. The pan.
btw all that is stock seen there, 100%,
So the new distributor arived today, it was a cheap part to throw at this but i figured i would try. Still get the code. The old one was in bad condition anyway but i figured out that you CAN rebuilt them. Not sure why the parts are not available. I do see the sheathing on mine but there is nothing around to create signal were the sheathing is not on it. I looked all over for where it might be grounded in the engine bay and near the ecu but i cant find anything that looks like it. The harness was ran right over the alternator so i moved that so its not near it. Thought this might fix the problem but it did not. My next move is the run new wire and then i am all out of ideas aside from replacing the ECU.

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