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Suzuki Swift T3 conversion - engine no start
#51
(07-16-2016, 10:58 AM)fixkick Wrote:
(07-15-2016, 04:38 PM)t3tom Wrote: Wow. lots of information to process.

The distributor on the T3 is a Hall effect type.

None of the 28 pins used in the T3 ECU is for serial data. The car has a 4 pin Monitor Coupler. Connecting the pins B & C enable Diagnostic Mode by connecting a ground path to the diagnostic request signal wire from the ECU and the CEL light flashes any codes. The other 2 pins go to the DNL lamp located in the instrument cluster and the Test Switch Signal on the ECU. The T3 does not have the extra Duty Output Terminal or the Diagnostic Output Terminal of later cars. So this means no serial data access from the factory is available without finding the serial pin inside the ECU I guess..

We will try to check for spark at the coil next, as well as check whether the CMP is working.

I have found a portable handheld oscilloscope similar to the input voltage rating spec you recommended. (Unfortunately ebay does not sell the one you suggested anymore). The one I am considering has an x10 probe rated at 400DCVmax. (single channel).
http://www.seeedstudio.com/wiki/DSO_Nano_v3





bad news that, zero comms. never seen one, before, fore sure dont exist in usa...why make digital ECU and cant comm to it. amazing. (and on a turbo no less....)
thanks for sharing that bit of news.

the coil test is always first , what if the distributor can distribute spark correctly (lots of reasons there) but is first. so we can go in the correct direction.

The car started! Even though the wiring harness seemed correct without any opens, my friend decided to make his own mini harness to bypass/isolate the circuit which connects the igniter, coil wires, and trigger/feedback wires to each other and the ECU. He is going to figure out later why the original wires were not working. It seems most likely that the coil was not getting power delivered to the original + coil primary wire, as no spark was produced.

Thanks again for your help!


ok seed, i have lots of their stuff
10v scope with 10:1 probe its 100v , and scope is protected to 80v (direct conn)
ok, seems ok 200khz band width, should be ok, for most car PWM sigs.

I have a Nano pocket scope now to play with and capture normal signal waveforms for future reference. (I'll avoid trying to measure the high voltage circuits.)

ok good luck , happy hunting.

Thanks.. Hunt completed.
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#52
good news.
i suspected bad wring all along. as is common big time on swaps.
no spark from coil top (now we know for sure and what end is bad)
ecu says Ignitor is not wiggling right (signals weak or dead) the ECU didnt lie.

the scope would have found that, but he beat you the hard way, with hand wiring it. (not easy to do lacking suzuki connectors that are not sold)

which wire is unknown, you could use a ohm meter on each wire point to point on the ignitor and friends, find the open or short to ground.
that works.
but is long job, say 2 hours, or so or less if ecu is unplugged.
at the very least he saved the horrid job of replacing the whole harness, then find something else is busted,.. then.


btw 2,
a cheap custom cable allows a scope to read spark
cost me $15 , price of a potted plant. (i measure all things on this funny scale. gee, its only.....xxxx)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFLaRd_5wc8

I use this puppy now.
from HANTEK HT25 sold on ebay for nuttn


[Image: hantek-ht25.JPG]


it does this, exactly
nice

$15
search

Have one to sell? Sell now
Details about Hantek HT-25


best $15 ever, if it finds one crappy carbon HV wire, that i never run.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40...o&_sacat=0



[Image: hv-good1w.JPG]
http://www.fixkick.com
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#53
this cable is grounded to the battery first.
the end is mag and capacitance coupled, (best of best)
and allows you to see a very very clear signal, best ive ever seen, if you look close above you can see the spark gap do its plasma tricks> fun, no?
http://www.fixkick.com
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#54
and btw3
on our cars there are the Cruise and the tachometer , that can short and kill spark'
so in some cases, it not bad spark parts bad, it the silly things stealing critical signals off the spark parts, that short, and end all spark.
best is a real FSM that shows every wire in car, and how they feed in the harness, in the book it is... on harness pages.
http://www.fixkick.com
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