DRL KILL 1989 to 1998 SIDEKICKs and Trackers      

How to kill DRL.   Daylight Running Lamps option.   USA only, and some Canada.
I cut the Resistor wire up to 1996,   and add a switch between the cut wires. 
Others like to  cut the black/white pin on the controller. or pull the pin (tedious, that is).

I found the huge power resistor , in my 96  in the right front fender apron  shell, to the right of  the right head light, all the way forward, well hidden.  Some folks just  unplugged it.
Other ways to kill feature, is to generate (no pun) a false generator fail or brake failure.  
You would cut the wire to the controller and ground the wire to the controller for the 3 failure inputs Ebrakes on,  Brakes fail or Gen fail.  Just ground the pin at the connector.
So, cutting and grounding pin Org/blk wire, would shut down DRL forever, just like driving with 1 click set on Ebrake.
Some say to cut the blk ground wire, at the controller.
89-96  just remove or cut out the load resistor.
97 to 98 , cut the output line on DRL module.  

Colors of wires vary by GEO and Suzuki's  USA or Canada.

Type 1: OLD systems,  Note the White-Green  wire at the DRL module, cut that wire at the DRL module.  ( or unplug the resistor)
If the socket is  burned up (common) there is no easy way to fix that. (no relay here) so unplug module safe off all burned wires. and the connect red/grn to Red/wht.  and bingo no more DRL, and no more wire shorts.
In fact this wire jump trick works on all from oldest to 1996. Red/grn to Red/white.

Type 2  Below: cut pin 3 at teh DRL module. (only if pins on model are not burned up and module still works)

type 3 below: Cut pin 1 wire.

Starting in 97 Suzuki switched to Pulse width modulated PWM, lights, ending the silly fender resistor. and 2 pins,  So Cut the wire at pin 1. of my  DRL module and added  a switch.

there are more than way to kill DRL,  this is my way.
Some real early models from Japan actual  89"  may work differently , but on them?, find the resistor and remove it.

See full schematics of 92 to 96 DRL here

1998 DLR is here.

1997 DRL defeat for burned up sockets. (same as 98)

97-98  (9 pin)  PWM DRL , it modulates the low beams.  No more resistor on right fender.

For the really curious, this is who it modulates the HL.  the actual chip. (hidden in above photo)

One not so nice feature,  is the connector above, loves to burn up. killing all head lights.
The pins on the DLR socket like to burn up, (do not use larger fuses)  and then all the above words are useless, with bad pins.
1996 DRL on USA car, below: above steering column under dash. It may be drifting around up there from previous owners fiddling about.
The pink-blue and violet wire is a give away.

ver 4  ( I think I found every way to kill it)  The hidden switch is best to fool "the heat /fuzz"  or inspectors.  IMHO.

Don't quote me, because, I'm not here. This feature  in USA is optional,  but not in Canada.  (and has been proven to be worthless in all traffic  studies,  easy , some cars have others don't, so the data proves it.)