Delta Electronic Mark 10 and 10B and 10C: $29.95 (typ.cost then)( 1965 )
Grand Junction Co. po box 1147,  Trade mark expired in 1992.
Calif CARB certified D-5 , for all cars, 1966 to 1973 cars.(dated 10march1973)
Certified to not make smog worse, not test for better.(but is )
Car companies later, all over the world copied this technology.  
No points, or last for ever and huge HV spark and multispark came with all mark 10b or C.
long time ago and I run them from day 1. Fast sure starts, in any weather !
Delta held many Patents dating from 1964, 3714507  and some others 3583378 and  3302058
see it here (they filed way before production (smart guys !)

 http://www.google.com/patents/US3302058

History

A famous aftermarket CDI which was available assembled or as DIY kit was Delta's Mark Ten (Mark 10) in late 1960ies and early 70-ties. In the late 1970ies it was sold as Mark Ten B with MultisPaprk Feature at low rpm.
we have to origional manuals and full schematics (ask) 


I have used the Delta Mark Ten and its alternate brands such as Archerkit from Radio Shack many years ago. I built them as kits. They are an excellent design. The power transistors were made just for this company so replacements are hard to cross reference. 


There were several companies marketing this unit, both pre-built and as a kit. The kit was very popular. 
DC to DC converter can be , noisey but next  to the engine, who cares?

Some women did not like to listen to the high-pitched squeal that some of them made.
I could hear it but it did not bother me. 
Later after Viet Nam Draft ended , I can't hear much.

A poster:
They are excellent for use with point-type distributors. I raced a 1966 Sunbeam Alpine in the early 1970s with good success. With a stock ignition the 4 cylinder 1725cc engine would rev only to 5500 rpm. With the CDI it would rev to over 7000 rpm. That is a big difference. Fuel economy was better. English cars are known to be hard to start in the winter and the CDI eliminated that problem. I had an open exhaust with no mufflers--what great music at 7000 rpm! By the way the engine was balanced and set up for racing. There is no glory in second place. I used a second coil as a dummy load for the electronic tachometer so that it would work as it
triggered off coil current. 

I have used them on 1966 Sunbeam Alpine, 1969 Sunbeam Arrow station wagon, 1977 BMW R75/7 motorcycle (one for each cylinder!), 1975 Honda Civic, 1966 Dodge pickup with 318 V8, and more. 

The best ones have the bypass switch in the event of failure.
 I would break in the points without the CDI then use the CDI. (no need at all and don't do that)

I also found that the rubbing blocks on the points would melt at high rpm if they were cheap and made of phenolic material.  use the grease stated in the book.


The best ones were Lucas and made of hard plastic. ( Bosch makes great parts do, just avoid china parts
C4 , Chinese cheap communist crap C4 !



The Heathkit model was the CP-1060. Excellent manuals are available. Heathkit had the best manuals.
 I bought the Radio Shack Archerkit units as they were lease expensive or on sale. 

I have used these with electronic ignitions as well. 
One was a Boyer unit for my BMW motorcycle. The BMW has two cylinders and a coil firing each cylinder. So I used two CDI units. It made a big difference in performance especially since the Boyer was electronic and did not use points nor a mechanical advance.


There is no cross reference that I could find. 
(sure that is because they are contract parts (a Delta secret) so there is no offical cross.

The part number is that of
the Mark V manufacturer, not a standard transistor part number. 

 I tried a coil for a V8 and there was very little improvement. Remember a V8 fires
twice as often as the 4 cylinder engine so the coil is designed with that in mind. 
A CDI  generates  more spark which means that it will fire lean and rich air/fuel
mixtures more reliably. 

A V8 coil is designed for shorter dwell times and is a cheap trick to try first. 
This is not true the CDI does NOT use saturation induction at all, like a old car.
It uses the Coil in TRANSFORMER mode.
so a 100:1 coil (read the spec on your coil) will give you, open circuit
400vdc times 100, or 40kv  using the turns ratio, is how this works.


It also draws more current than a coil for a 4 cylinder engine. A
CDI merely triggers so dwell time is less of a problem. 
NO, again, in fact there is no dwell time, the CDI does not charge the coil, it charges the
internal main capactor then dischanges that to the coil , it hammer the coil in a transformer
action and is not induction mode at all..... !!!


I could also increase dwell by running .006" instead of .018" gap. This minimizes point bounce at high RPM
as I only needed a trigger signal.  Bingo he gets this right.

poster2:

The CDI has worked for me in the past for any car. It works real well, but in humid climate there is the possibility of arcing to ground if the spark plug gap is set too large.
The gap is set to .045 , if using sold wires, (dont) it will need more gap.
what you run in your car spark system is important, and the wires and plugs and gaps
are all , your job. 
It also varies by the coils turns ratio.  the larger the ratio the more gap you can run.
just like new car today with powerful COP coils.  


So the ignition wires and distributor might require higher voltage breakdown.
Well sure they do , its 50, 100kv on mine, so yes,  no cheap china $5 plastic wire sets
use Silicon, use NGK mag wires.  or Boschs.
its a system and all parts need to match up.
.

The CDI is capable of higher voltages and higher energy than the standard coil. 
This allows a larger plug gap to be set for most CDI ignitions.' 
However the larger gap will create a higher voltage in the wiring and the distributor. The leads or distributor may breakdown (arc to ground or other wiring) This may cause cross fire, but more likely divert some of the spark energy to the engine block. sure if running junk parts.
top brand parts all will run 50k easy.


The spark plug wires are available at higher than needed voltages, but the distributor cap may not be able to tolerate the higher voltages when humid, at higher altitude or when it is dirty. The ‘Break down voltage’ (the voltage where there is an arc) may not be high enough when increasing the plug gap. When increasing the plug gap over the manufacturers recommended gap the plug wires should be improved to a higher breakdown voltage, and the distributor cap and distributor must be kept very clean, or changed to a higher voltage unit.
sure just like new cars with 100kv HIE systems. nothing new here.


First decided, what voltage open circuit you want. A design goal.
1: 40 to 50KV is good,  10k was stock so...
2: to do that you need a 100:1 turns ratio coil (I run Epoxy coils,rated for 50k or more)
the CDI does not use INDUCTION mode, as Telsa did, it's not induction.
its Capacitive Discharge. we are running Transformer mode and the turns ratio is the deal here.
the coil is never ever charged or saturated nor is there any dwell.
Dwell in car lingo mean, how long do I charge the coil, this is CDI, no dwell.
The points open and this moment , sets the timing, nothing else. (forgetting advance)

3: use NGK maG silicon wires. or Bosch. 
4: try differnt spark gaps,  .035" maybe a  good starting point on the spark plugs.

4: all stock quality Distributor caps will run 50k no problem , if clean, 
if not, get a lower turns ratio coil.  Most are.

racing coils are high turns ratio.  (sold everwhere today, 2013)

 Better is to run MSD, today, it too is CDI and it to never charges a  coil nor does it ever
saturate the coil, in fact the coil runs cool and never overheats at low RPM as old school
induction coils did.
remember VW  bugs, they burned the coil up fast is not started in short order.
on your old V8 cars? ,they had a ballast resistor in USA to stop that nasty trick


end CDI