Does car have none stock lighting> or other wiring hacks, to wiring?
have things not stock wired or hacked into any harness, or any fuse box? or to ignition switch or its connectors?
car is 26 years old. not many cars this old, on the road are running now, and this car , here is UNSEEN even watching for 6 months.... very very rare.
but is great offroad and in snow. super, good because of the nibble size and weight,.
is car in Canada? or USA> ours dont have DRL up in Canada its the law there. and DRL loves to fail, overheat and burn up the DLR connector.
this is the only (burns,smokes and now fuse blowing symptoms ive ever heard or seen)
are all fuses the correct size? amps? that be first. if not DLR
a 90 tracker has super simple wiring, is it 2door, 3speed or 5 speed stick, is it 4wd?
DRL = daylight running lamps. they glow, all the time.
no starts (*cranks ok )
well
if car has custom lighting, get rid of it and make the next marathon?
or if you just MUST have it, then ask me how to wiring it so it can never catch fire again,... easy (using fuses added in the correct way....)
The correct way is with fuses added and not using engine critical sources of engine power, this is super easy to do, ASK and WIN.
cranks but will not start..... now.
ok, is the IG-coil fuse needs to be good, as does the FI fuse.
2 fuse , read 0 ohms with an ohmmeter (dmm set to low scale ohms)
next insert, the diagnostic jumper clip, (a paper clip or fuse as the case may be) to the DLC next to battery per my DLC page
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
key on , CEL in cluster must glow , does it? , and did it before ,event?
key on, and the CEL must flash 12s. or something. (my pages cover them all) jumpered. must flash 12s.
12s means ok, (have power, sensors have not fallen off)
i then crank for 5 long seconds, and release the key, not turning it off yet.
code 12s now???????? (it can in fact tell you 2/3 ways spark is gone or other errors...)
if yes, 12, then we check for spark, next , using the same 100year old classic ways....
if spark is ok , see if engine starts on test fuel. (spray)next....
runs now, yes? or no, runs for 3 seconds each spray? or not.
if yes, you lost fueling or it's flooding., if flooding?, crank it wide open throttle, as this cuts all fueling and clears floods easy.
if it dont run with test fuel with good spark, then cam belt slipped, its a 60k mile part,. and all fail.
got 12s?
keep in mind a 26 year old car will have more than one problem. all do, seen none that did not.!
and may have double failures.... or adds one more failure to 2 others ignored.
this is true for all old cars, most are not checked correctly , with scan tool, smog checked , and inspected for damaged wiring, or hacks.
the hood sticker on car tells you what country it was built for.
89 calif
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...age_1.html
a 90 Fed
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...age_2.html
canada cars are different and same with this hood tag. some cars in canada then were graymarket. with totally different tags.
here is a canada tag
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...ge_14.html
note that maple leaf/? bingo not USA,
in fact, if I had this car, and it run so good
and all there was is a simple wiring issue, I'd be like, wow , i love this car, such a simple failure, no engine block cracked in half from ice ups. or? other expensive fails. ROD flying thru side of block, or transmission failures. costing $2000
it's just a bit of copper...
please post all wiring hacks on car, and we can fix them all.... inspect all harnesses before buying cars,
look for hacks, and if found pay less.
post full car spec.
year 90, trans type 3/4/5gears , 2wd/4wd, its G16A engine, door count, and country located, or better the tag words, (calif,USAFED/CANADA)
thanks.
have things not stock wired or hacked into any harness, or any fuse box? or to ignition switch or its connectors?
car is 26 years old. not many cars this old, on the road are running now, and this car , here is UNSEEN even watching for 6 months.... very very rare.
but is great offroad and in snow. super, good because of the nibble size and weight,.
is car in Canada? or USA> ours dont have DRL up in Canada its the law there. and DRL loves to fail, overheat and burn up the DLR connector.
this is the only (burns,smokes and now fuse blowing symptoms ive ever heard or seen)
are all fuses the correct size? amps? that be first. if not DLR
a 90 tracker has super simple wiring, is it 2door, 3speed or 5 speed stick, is it 4wd?
DRL = daylight running lamps. they glow, all the time.
no starts (*cranks ok )
well
if car has custom lighting, get rid of it and make the next marathon?
or if you just MUST have it, then ask me how to wiring it so it can never catch fire again,... easy (using fuses added in the correct way....)
The correct way is with fuses added and not using engine critical sources of engine power, this is super easy to do, ASK and WIN.
cranks but will not start..... now.
ok, is the IG-coil fuse needs to be good, as does the FI fuse.
2 fuse , read 0 ohms with an ohmmeter (dmm set to low scale ohms)
next insert, the diagnostic jumper clip, (a paper clip or fuse as the case may be) to the DLC next to battery per my DLC page
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/DLC/DiagJump.html
key on , CEL in cluster must glow , does it? , and did it before ,event?
key on, and the CEL must flash 12s. or something. (my pages cover them all) jumpered. must flash 12s.
12s means ok, (have power, sensors have not fallen off)
i then crank for 5 long seconds, and release the key, not turning it off yet.
code 12s now???????? (it can in fact tell you 2/3 ways spark is gone or other errors...)
if yes, 12, then we check for spark, next , using the same 100year old classic ways....
if spark is ok , see if engine starts on test fuel. (spray)next....
runs now, yes? or no, runs for 3 seconds each spray? or not.
if yes, you lost fueling or it's flooding., if flooding?, crank it wide open throttle, as this cuts all fueling and clears floods easy.
if it dont run with test fuel with good spark, then cam belt slipped, its a 60k mile part,. and all fail.
got 12s?
keep in mind a 26 year old car will have more than one problem. all do, seen none that did not.!
and may have double failures.... or adds one more failure to 2 others ignored.
this is true for all old cars, most are not checked correctly , with scan tool, smog checked , and inspected for damaged wiring, or hacks.
the hood sticker on car tells you what country it was built for.
89 calif
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...age_1.html
a 90 Fed
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...age_2.html
canada cars are different and same with this hood tag. some cars in canada then were graymarket. with totally different tags.
here is a canada tag
http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/h...ge_14.html
note that maple leaf/? bingo not USA,
in fact, if I had this car, and it run so good
and all there was is a simple wiring issue, I'd be like, wow , i love this car, such a simple failure, no engine block cracked in half from ice ups. or? other expensive fails. ROD flying thru side of block, or transmission failures. costing $2000
it's just a bit of copper...
please post all wiring hacks on car, and we can fix them all.... inspect all harnesses before buying cars,
look for hacks, and if found pay less.
post full car spec.
year 90, trans type 3/4/5gears , 2wd/4wd, its G16A engine, door count, and country located, or better the tag words, (calif,USAFED/CANADA)
thanks.
http://www.fixkick.com