the pressure reg in the pump opens wide at 55, on the button.
the car is old, many cars, this old and owners, have never seen a real stock pump or one that works right. a fact.
old pumps this pressure relief is packed in crap inside and stuck closed,(luck of draw)
then others (vast) buy clone pumps, many made in china, and some so thick the front cog hits. or so poorly cloned, the cloner, forgets, gee the regulator is documented.
and forgets to clone it, right, or decides to call it a Racing pump. and just skip all this engineering stuff... (cloners are like that)
or
your gauge is no good,
here is a cheap gauge. (good enough for most, even me,,, but not as an engine building tool. after all i want to know if the regulator works, on new engines
some are 20% off. (spec,. so 70 is really 55)
http://www.harborfreight.com/electronic-...41017.html
now a good gauges.(lots) Best shop guage, one for engine for doing transmission line pressure,tests (accurately)
http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-engine-aut...ockType=G2
or OTC
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-5610-Tra...B000R5G0DO
im not saying those problems will happen im quoting the physics,
per automotive racing engines, builders...
that regulator works just like and fuel pressure regulator, (sans Vacuum)
im always curious if it works on day1, starts.
on a true stock engine
i crank it , spark plugs out. dead cold, never ran before.
it goes to 55psi, as that spring valve opens... im a show me guy,,,,, I want the spring to move and open that valve, on any new engine...
![[Image: 3_20_03_16_9_07_31.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_20_03_16_9_07_31.jpeg)
if it never goes over 70psi , at any rpm, id bet the gauge, is just a toy guage , as most are. and is really 57psi,,,,,
if the valve fails to work , right, my head goes
gee, if its not working right now, what if the clone pump, valve sticks open ,? (probably the most important part of the engine, IMO)
things that act up, usually are a sign of future failures...
the car is old, many cars, this old and owners, have never seen a real stock pump or one that works right. a fact.
old pumps this pressure relief is packed in crap inside and stuck closed,(luck of draw)
then others (vast) buy clone pumps, many made in china, and some so thick the front cog hits. or so poorly cloned, the cloner, forgets, gee the regulator is documented.
and forgets to clone it, right, or decides to call it a Racing pump. and just skip all this engineering stuff... (cloners are like that)
or
your gauge is no good,
here is a cheap gauge. (good enough for most, even me,,, but not as an engine building tool. after all i want to know if the regulator works, on new engines
some are 20% off. (spec,. so 70 is really 55)
http://www.harborfreight.com/electronic-...41017.html
now a good gauges.(lots) Best shop guage, one for engine for doing transmission line pressure,tests (accurately)
http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-engine-aut...ockType=G2
or OTC
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-5610-Tra...B000R5G0DO
im not saying those problems will happen im quoting the physics,
per automotive racing engines, builders...
that regulator works just like and fuel pressure regulator, (sans Vacuum)
im always curious if it works on day1, starts.
on a true stock engine
i crank it , spark plugs out. dead cold, never ran before.
it goes to 55psi, as that spring valve opens... im a show me guy,,,,, I want the spring to move and open that valve, on any new engine...
if it never goes over 70psi , at any rpm, id bet the gauge, is just a toy guage , as most are. and is really 57psi,,,,,
if the valve fails to work , right, my head goes
gee, if its not working right now, what if the clone pump, valve sticks open ,? (probably the most important part of the engine, IMO)
things that act up, usually are a sign of future failures...
http://www.fixkick.com