what was cold rpm at 4psi or when the idiot lamp glows,(some glow at 3psi, as low as....)
RPM matters, in all cases,
what is outdoor air temp
what is the oil in there, sump , 0w? what?
my stock G16, with no spark plugs removed, is 55psi oil pressure cold cranked,with 10w30 oil, 75F ambient temp, sea-level.
the oil pressure by pass sparing is set to 55psi, that is what it is.
but when engine is hot and oil is hot, the pressure at the sum off bearing leaks, crank, rod, and cam. total
so is less. most run 20 psi at idle if USING THE Correct oil.
the cam should not effect this pressure as the head bottom front corner has a .050" orifice device, for the gallery to the cam, so can't drop pressure. with say a blown cam.
its not missing is it? (it screws in with an ALLEN wrench (tiny)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...284%29.jpg
see here. on rebuilt day
see my gauge, (accurate not some china, import for $3)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_53.html
just the starter motor alone hits 55psi bam, (all bearings in engine were checked 2 ways, by me, bore gauges, and mikes, and last as an audit check only Plasti-gage.)
has new crank, ground fresh. all journals.
is your crank fresh or just recycled(untouched journals.).
name all new parts in block, and i tell you what they did.
new bearings shells needs a reground crank, (ask why)
yes, the pump can suck air if that bottom pickup seal not fresh and sealed.
if your cranking only (no spark no fuel fuel prump relay pulled best is spark plugs out)
is not 55psi with 10w-30 id never run it. ever.
its the first thing I do, even with engine on a pallet..
keep in mind, ive no idea at all history of engine.
RPM matters, in all cases,
what is outdoor air temp
what is the oil in there, sump , 0w? what?
my stock G16, with no spark plugs removed, is 55psi oil pressure cold cranked,with 10w30 oil, 75F ambient temp, sea-level.
the oil pressure by pass sparing is set to 55psi, that is what it is.
but when engine is hot and oil is hot, the pressure at the sum off bearing leaks, crank, rod, and cam. total
so is less. most run 20 psi at idle if USING THE Correct oil.
the cam should not effect this pressure as the head bottom front corner has a .050" orifice device, for the gallery to the cam, so can't drop pressure. with say a blown cam.
its not missing is it? (it screws in with an ALLEN wrench (tiny)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...284%29.jpg
see here. on rebuilt day
see my gauge, (accurate not some china, import for $3)
http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_53.html
just the starter motor alone hits 55psi bam, (all bearings in engine were checked 2 ways, by me, bore gauges, and mikes, and last as an audit check only Plasti-gage.)
has new crank, ground fresh. all journals.
is your crank fresh or just recycled(untouched journals.).
name all new parts in block, and i tell you what they did.
new bearings shells needs a reground crank, (ask why)
yes, the pump can suck air if that bottom pickup seal not fresh and sealed.
if your cranking only (no spark no fuel fuel prump relay pulled best is spark plugs out)
is not 55psi with 10w-30 id never run it. ever.
its the first thing I do, even with engine on a pallet..
(03-18-2016, 06:57 PM)Deadduck Wrote: Another question I am having some oil pressure problems eg cold start or any start oil pressure is 4-10 psi till I rev up then might go to 30-40 psi then will drop back down really low sometimes so low oil light will come on. under load up a hill it was at about 50 then has bits where it will suddenly drop down to 20 then back up for about a second engine has had full rebuild oversize pistons ect oil pump was checked was good also all bearing clearances all perfect thinking air getting into where pickup goes to block or something like that all pressure reg was checked as well what can I do?
keep in mind, ive no idea at all history of engine.
http://www.fixkick.com