that engine can NOT run, with like 10things missing. must be very very old photo...
what if the current photos , i saw something wrong.???
and i need your blue chassis tag , codes. on fire wall , or what country car was bought new, or present now?
i see your DLC connector on the left why not jumper the 2 pins and see the DTC errors? why not use the jumper wire and see if you have errors first?
i shrunk the photo to fit, THIS TIME CURRENT
ok it is a 16v, with MAF, and MPI EFI injected.
and is at 80C (tad low but gauges always lie, a bit)
but is above IAC closure point.
my 97 did this.
i grabbed the throttle body throttle bell crank (see cable, no cruise no , a/t) and turned it very hard by hand , if it closed more the butterfly TV valve is gunked up.
if it dont turn and is bottomed out, then the TV dont leak.
easy no?
there are only 4 air paths for idle,
1 TV, (is 100%closed)
2 bleed screw path on top under a cap
3 the ISC (electric powered ) unplug the conn, what is RPM now, when rpm was 1500, ????????
4 and IAC, thermal. if the 2 water hoses are clogged or in the valve, it will stick open and idle races. this air valve is always closed hot , (mine was not and had to replace it)
rule 1, the engine can not run with zero air. a fact.
this one fact makes diagnose simple (in theory ) but not in practice due to the many paths that can leak, and if there are 2 or 3 more failures, as most seem to have this old.
here is what you have, off my bad idle pages,,, (extensive info)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/fastfix.html
this is all there is to normal air. see my red arrows here and letters?
![[Image: induction1a.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Show/images/induction1a.jpg)
first things first.
go to the DLC, diag, link conn.
insert the paper clip, best is with engine running, (inserted keyon, is old errors, then start and new errors flash out)
the steps are here, its like 5min work.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
we do that to be sure the ECU is working, and not in limphome or worse backup mode.
its always step one any time the engine runs bad, on all cars, made with EFI and even 2016 cars.
step 1.
is the ECU unhappy, we are its slave.... for sure.
many times, the IAC has the 2 water hoses packed in crap.
input hose,
output hose
or the valve itself is packed, in junk, gunk,etc. so the valve never gets 80c full flow of water.
if that happens the thermal device inside, sets in the cold position and valve is now stuck open hot.
lucky for me , i have $15 IR, pyro thermal gun, i point the laser at the isc base and see, OMG, its 130f./ 54c that be dead wrong, water path is blocked.
super easy to do with tools... no?
btw IAC closes 100% at about 150F. or 65C
ever seen this?
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_25.html
gunk can in fact block open the TV.
and will leak air, and race and be intermittent too....
im not guessing here, just showing some common examples.
i dont test, I test. i do the simple tests and proves whats wrong.
what is rpm with ISC unplugged, electrically, (the connectors on VIT are all locked, and buying a new one is near impossible..) so go easy.
here is the IAC
see my slide show and ignore 8v parts. only 16v parts look,
more sure
the idle switch must be closed at idle, 0v on idle switch pin
if not idle regulation will be dead, and idle random..
my TPS page covers this.
this switch is part of , the TPS.
if the TPS idle fails, the ECU tells you this fact.
but that is step one , the DLC jumper, mention above first.
what country?
or if car bought in other country, where?
each country runs different ECU and some other parts.
some Vit have no , CAT< no EGR< and no 02 sensors.
see?
i see you exhaust is not stock
does car still have an oxy (lambda) sensor on end of exhaust header?
does car still have a CAT.?
are there any other things missing? the photos shows vast things missing, why?
what if the current photos , i saw something wrong.???
and i need your blue chassis tag , codes. on fire wall , or what country car was bought new, or present now?
i see your DLC connector on the left why not jumper the 2 pins and see the DTC errors? why not use the jumper wire and see if you have errors first?
i shrunk the photo to fit, THIS TIME CURRENT
ok it is a 16v, with MAF, and MPI EFI injected.
and is at 80C (tad low but gauges always lie, a bit)
but is above IAC closure point.
my 97 did this.
i grabbed the throttle body throttle bell crank (see cable, no cruise no , a/t) and turned it very hard by hand , if it closed more the butterfly TV valve is gunked up.
if it dont turn and is bottomed out, then the TV dont leak.
easy no?
there are only 4 air paths for idle,
1 TV, (is 100%closed)
2 bleed screw path on top under a cap
3 the ISC (electric powered ) unplug the conn, what is RPM now, when rpm was 1500, ????????
4 and IAC, thermal. if the 2 water hoses are clogged or in the valve, it will stick open and idle races. this air valve is always closed hot , (mine was not and had to replace it)
rule 1, the engine can not run with zero air. a fact.
this one fact makes diagnose simple (in theory ) but not in practice due to the many paths that can leak, and if there are 2 or 3 more failures, as most seem to have this old.
here is what you have, off my bad idle pages,,, (extensive info)
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/fastfix.html
this is all there is to normal air. see my red arrows here and letters?
first things first.
go to the DLC, diag, link conn.
insert the paper clip, best is with engine running, (inserted keyon, is old errors, then start and new errors flash out)
the steps are here, its like 5min work.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/CEL.html#OBD1codes
we do that to be sure the ECU is working, and not in limphome or worse backup mode.
its always step one any time the engine runs bad, on all cars, made with EFI and even 2016 cars.
step 1.
is the ECU unhappy, we are its slave.... for sure.
many times, the IAC has the 2 water hoses packed in crap.
input hose,
output hose
or the valve itself is packed, in junk, gunk,etc. so the valve never gets 80c full flow of water.
if that happens the thermal device inside, sets in the cold position and valve is now stuck open hot.
lucky for me , i have $15 IR, pyro thermal gun, i point the laser at the isc base and see, OMG, its 130f./ 54c that be dead wrong, water path is blocked.
super easy to do with tools... no?
btw IAC closes 100% at about 150F. or 65C
ever seen this?
http://www.fixkick.com/IDLE-AIR/Slide_Sh...ge_25.html
gunk can in fact block open the TV.
and will leak air, and race and be intermittent too....
im not guessing here, just showing some common examples.
i dont test, I test. i do the simple tests and proves whats wrong.
what is rpm with ISC unplugged, electrically, (the connectors on VIT are all locked, and buying a new one is near impossible..) so go easy.
here is the IAC
see my slide show and ignore 8v parts. only 16v parts look,
more sure
the idle switch must be closed at idle, 0v on idle switch pin
if not idle regulation will be dead, and idle random..
my TPS page covers this.
this switch is part of , the TPS.
if the TPS idle fails, the ECU tells you this fact.
but that is step one , the DLC jumper, mention above first.
what country?
or if car bought in other country, where?
each country runs different ECU and some other parts.
some Vit have no , CAT< no EGR< and no 02 sensors.
see?
i see you exhaust is not stock
does car still have an oxy (lambda) sensor on end of exhaust header?
does car still have a CAT.?
are there any other things missing? the photos shows vast things missing, why?
http://www.fixkick.com