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Finding CAM TDC
#11
Dear Fix kick:
Thanks very much for the time you took to provide the detailed answer.

At this juncture, I would like to refresh my story and answer to some of the questions you asked.

The engine has cold WOT compression of 155 psi on all cylinders. I believe the TDCs are to spec, and so are the valve lashes.

It should be noted that after I installed installing the used engine, everything was working OK until I discovered an oil leak on the base of the distributor. That was caused due to the crack on the base of the distributor (on the location where it mates to engine). Then I put the distributor from my old motor instead of the leaking distributor; and, that is the trouble started!

Here are answer to some of the questions you asked:
1. are the HV wires timed right, if it runs ok at one rpm , the wires are right.
I am assuming by the HV wires you mean the wires going to the spark plugs. The answer is yes; I have checked their order of connection on the distributor, as well as their resistances.

2. does it have china rotor in it, that times 3 ways, (bs), then buy a bosch rotor , they dont.
I am not sure whether it is Chinese or other brand; there is no label on it. Yesterday I took the rotor part of the used engine's distributor and installed it on the base of the one that was with my old engine. This distributor has a Mitsubishi sign on it. I have not tried the new set up yet, since I need the O-ring that goes between the dizzy and motor. I am waiting for the dealer to get it for me!
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3. misfiring is complex and best to know when it happens and not. under all conditions. and what it sounds like.
is it backfiring, to air cleaner, or to exhaust muffler.
These days I have taken the trumpet part off. When it backfires, it is right inside the TB, just below the injector. I am so distressed that I do not wait for the engine to get too warm!

4. is it worse cold or hot engine?
I think it is more or less the same.

5. can you get full wot power from engine?
NO!

Thank you so much!
Zackman
[color=#800080][b]91 Sidekick JX, 8V, S. Carolina Car, 2 dr, 3 speed Auto Trani, Halifax, NS, Canada[/b][/color]
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#12
hello and welcome, we can find it, im pretty sure it minor bug...
the china comment means NONAME from china
BOSCH from China, is 100% good, and only fits one way (rotor) has nice metal clip inside that keeps it fitting one way
the CHINA noname POS, ,have no clip and can be installed 3 ways.
1: good
2: dead engine
3: misfires like a SOB. and impossible to time right.
it really a travesty these parts, like we need on more variables in timing it , like a hole in our heads.
see the steel clip here
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/rotor-bottom.jpg
the china knock offs have nothing here, or some weak fitting clone bs. (it must fit tight and only one way)

that back firing is timing issues, if compression is at spec. if compression is not spec, then the cam is timed wrong.
really if the cam is timed wrong, its all just whistling in the dark , on distributor.

HV = high voltage, means high voltage spark wires not the primary low voltage side.

wish i had compression data.
wish i had photos of your cam code do you have 60a spokes or just the 1 titty spoke cog wheel???, it be super helpful to know what is there, so i can answer dead accurate.

so old distrib leaks
and new one misfires.
cause of new dist misfire, if it is the cause, are:
CMP bad or the side terminal bad, or the Distributor ground strap wires left off or loose. (there are many key grounds here) see my grounds page>?
china noname post rotor? then why not buy real parts from Bosch, they are designed by german engineers, not knock off artist. ( i really hate counterfeit parts, can you tell) and why.?
HV wires damaged in the take down, carbon wires are crap, silicon core,same , so buy BOSCH mag wires or if super rich NGK. the make the weak spark vastly better.
pulling old wires or even cheap ones, the cores fail, so very easy. and ohmeter tests mean little here. they MUST work at 25,000 volts while shaking, no small task that...... try new ones.
HV wires wired out of order. 1,3,4,2 is order. CLOCK WISE ROTOR TURNS AND wire routing same.
keep in mind i cant hear it, so ,must ask too many questions to replace ears. LOL.
sounds like is misfire full time, SO IS GROSS ERRORS.
please keep i mind , i keep open mind.AS assumption are a killer, i see new cam beltS INSTALLED, and user didnt tension it right and bam, the cam slips, all new parts end to end.,
Or idler key mis indexed.
open to all failures i am for sure blind,. and deaf.
oh the distrib has dust cap under cap to keep spark from jumping BOOM END OF ROAD< to the bottom electronics, is it missing?
as seen here
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/dizzy91-real1w.jpg
the Mitsubishi rotor is stock, and very well made.

try BOSCH parts, everyone has them and they are 100% QUALITY,

NO name, no hope. no way to even complain or ask them WTF is this?

notice rockauto does not sell the 100's of china nameless or (odd names, like som-ting-wong, parts , as seen on ebay.
not one.
for a good reason.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/suzu...rotor,7136

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http://www.fixkick.com
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#13
Many thanks FixKick; it must be the darn dizzy (or wires); I will order a set of good wires. I checked the timing belt yesterday; it is very tight and snog.
I WILL keep you posted (can work on teh car n week-ends only!).
Thanks again.
Zackman.
[color=#800080][b]91 Sidekick JX, 8V, S. Carolina Car, 2 dr, 3 speed Auto Trani, Halifax, NS, Canada[/b][/color]
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