yes, both SAE and Suzuki changed the names 3 times in 20 years.... but it is an electro magnetic solenoid air valve, for sure, the other is cold start thermal air valve.
i guess the car has and pre 96 ECU, you never said which ECU, and we all,in the end make it happy..... EFI runs the engine , the ECU does.
who's harness the 97?
what country is car,or what country ECU? (we can discover all that.... and is really first besides the bad ground you have)
The USA ECU 96+ has no flash codes!,(those are gone in the USA (cept 96 4speed transmission flash codes for the automatic) the USA car by law is OBD2, so its not a 97 ECU.
"I was told was a 97 Sidekick" seems not. seem like 92-95 MPI engine.
all 97 have a crank sensor. front bottom of oil pump, on engine, got CKP a.k.a. the crank sensor. seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ckp-sensor.jpg (96 to 98)USA only.... and canada in 1998.
the engine serial number shows the year, (USA laws), the letter in the center of the engine serial is the YEAR code, easy decode. on my vin page.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/my-motor-serial1w.jpg (T= 96) V= 97, what is yours?
The ECU code tops my list. what is it.? the USA US will have below the PN , MT-US, (means manual trans, USA)
the list EPC list
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html#EPC
(guessing below, tell me and we can really (fire hose accuracy)
dash 72E01 (is usa mt0, e3 = USA federal spec)
dash 71EL1 same for Canada. but made in JAPAN
dash 72E41 same for canada but made in CAMI
with ECU in hand we have this TAG. off my tag slide show.
![[Image: TAG-ecu-real-w1.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/specs/Body-TAGS/images/TAG-ecu-real-w1.jpg)
the numbers to the right of the DASH are KEY.
like that, is the way.
since yours flashes codes, must be 92-95...ECU. (96 and up dont flash at all (by law)
IAT never fails, and you measured its grown wire at 5v volt, ITS NOT CONNECTED. that is what
engine
lower left, bell base flange. (drivers perspective = left)
G16L (L = 7 for 1997)
Ill run with (fire hose) 1995 (lacking tag data and VIN, and engine code data)
code 23 means the IAT is unplugged.. it is , the ground wire IS CUT.
code 24, means VSS dead. the builder built the car and left out the speedo cluster. and cable. this causes VSS to go dead and some ECU go to limphome mode with a dead VSS. (it limits power for sure, lacking the critical ROAD SPEED INPUTS)
if you drive it with the DLC jumper connected to DLC2(RF headlight )or next to batter pre 96, the CEL will flash even more codes.
the best cleaner is CRC MAF or manifold clear, SAFE for plastics. l
http://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Mass-Air-F...z/36755294
there are delicate parts in side all sensors, and actuators. just the maf cleaner is all you need...
the spark timing, is based on country, and year, and if in PR> of California (calif is a country by law EPA laws)
since i dont know either country of ECU there..??? I cant guess timing.
now that bad wire, this is very very important to running any ECU 92-98 ( or newer)
The ECU is the power source, the ECU has this Device inside called a 5v regulator, just for sensors, (the processor inside has its own 5v reg too)
Imagine a magic 5vdc battery is there, (IT IS)
the sensors i listed, above, a chain of them , (fire hose) are running off GROUND. all of them are., and is (physically odd form)
ill make a drawing for you and then apply OHMS laws. (I = E/R) I= current, E= voltage , R = resistance.)
ill do the IAT (the other sensors are dead too, you just dont know it yet , some are)
im guess'g now the Samkick is 87 sam, 97engine and 95 harness and 95 ECU, (the engine serial and ecu p/n will not lie, and is key diagnosing what you have)
here is a drawing i just made.
You measured node B and failed. that wire is CUT.
![[Image: fail1.jpg]](http://www.fixkick.com/look/fail1.jpg)
Node B is ground. and is
lets pretend the car is 1995 ECU, (we need the ECU part number bad.)
so ill answer in short,(no fire hose)
see this, see pin B15 on the ECU , this line on your sensors IS CUT. (any where on the that line, it can be)
the wire is colored. the same. THE GRAY -YELLOW wire iS CUT. (broken)
causing up to 6 sensors to go dead, if cut mid way, then 1/2 that. i cant guess. only my voltmeter tells me exactly where its CUT. 0v good, 5v bad.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
since i already found the big error here, why not find the cause.
using a ohm meter, measure
key off, sensors unplugged (they have locks do not force them)
B15 ECU pin (92-95)
to each sensor, (in list) gray yellow wire
0 ohms, say less that 3ohms, as most cheap meters read high by that.
the sensors with infinity or high ohms are bad.
lets say you read.
0
0
0
infinity (1million ohms or so)means OPEN CIRCUIT.
infinity
infinity.
the wire is cut between the last 0 and the first infinity reading.
this works on all 92-95 harnesses in N.America., G16B MPI engines.
we can also use a test light (with internal battery) to check continuity, (this class failure is easy, the ECU even told you what is wrong)
or a buzz box. (battery )
or as bell (called in the old days "ringing it out")
to check continuity...
or just examine all those sensors , the gry-yell wire for damage,
but can be in the harness, i can not predict where. damage pulling engines is random, unless the harnesses are safed off.
what is yours ?
the heart and soul of EFI the "ECU" spark , injection and lots more.
id have had this out day 1.
then check the ECU caps.(inside) for leaking green snot
then set the crank pulley 17mm bolt to 94ft/lbs.. (A TSB DIRECTIVE FROM SUZUKI)
all day 1.
that one sticker
tells me volumes
what engine?
what harness?
what year,?
what country.?
what smog levels.?
and more. it also gets me on the correct schematic drawings.
just one itty bitty look..
the above example is the 8v... but yours has this sticker. (on top)
i guess the car has and pre 96 ECU, you never said which ECU, and we all,in the end make it happy..... EFI runs the engine , the ECU does.
who's harness the 97?
what country is car,or what country ECU? (we can discover all that.... and is really first besides the bad ground you have)
The USA ECU 96+ has no flash codes!,(those are gone in the USA (cept 96 4speed transmission flash codes for the automatic) the USA car by law is OBD2, so its not a 97 ECU.
"I was told was a 97 Sidekick" seems not. seem like 92-95 MPI engine.
all 97 have a crank sensor. front bottom of oil pump, on engine, got CKP a.k.a. the crank sensor. seen here.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/ckp-sensor.jpg (96 to 98)USA only.... and canada in 1998.
the engine serial number shows the year, (USA laws), the letter in the center of the engine serial is the YEAR code, easy decode. on my vin page.
http://www.fixkick.com/my96-16v/my-motor-serial1w.jpg (T= 96) V= 97, what is yours?
The ECU code tops my list. what is it.? the USA US will have below the PN , MT-US, (means manual trans, USA)
the list EPC list
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html#EPC
(guessing below, tell me and we can really (fire hose accuracy)
dash 72E01 (is usa mt0, e3 = USA federal spec)
dash 71EL1 same for Canada. but made in JAPAN
dash 72E41 same for canada but made in CAMI
with ECU in hand we have this TAG. off my tag slide show.
the numbers to the right of the DASH are KEY.
like that, is the way.
since yours flashes codes, must be 92-95...ECU. (96 and up dont flash at all (by law)
IAT never fails, and you measured its grown wire at 5v volt, ITS NOT CONNECTED. that is what
engine
lower left, bell base flange. (drivers perspective = left)
G16L (L = 7 for 1997)
Ill run with (fire hose) 1995 (lacking tag data and VIN, and engine code data)
code 23 means the IAT is unplugged.. it is , the ground wire IS CUT.
code 24, means VSS dead. the builder built the car and left out the speedo cluster. and cable. this causes VSS to go dead and some ECU go to limphome mode with a dead VSS. (it limits power for sure, lacking the critical ROAD SPEED INPUTS)
if you drive it with the DLC jumper connected to DLC2(RF headlight )or next to batter pre 96, the CEL will flash even more codes.
the best cleaner is CRC MAF or manifold clear, SAFE for plastics. l
http://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-Mass-Air-F...z/36755294
there are delicate parts in side all sensors, and actuators. just the maf cleaner is all you need...
the spark timing, is based on country, and year, and if in PR> of California (calif is a country by law EPA laws)
since i dont know either country of ECU there..??? I cant guess timing.
now that bad wire, this is very very important to running any ECU 92-98 ( or newer)
The ECU is the power source, the ECU has this Device inside called a 5v regulator, just for sensors, (the processor inside has its own 5v reg too)
Imagine a magic 5vdc battery is there, (IT IS)
the sensors i listed, above, a chain of them , (fire hose) are running off GROUND. all of them are., and is (physically odd form)
ill make a drawing for you and then apply OHMS laws. (I = E/R) I= current, E= voltage , R = resistance.)
ill do the IAT (the other sensors are dead too, you just dont know it yet , some are)
im guess'g now the Samkick is 87 sam, 97engine and 95 harness and 95 ECU, (the engine serial and ecu p/n will not lie, and is key diagnosing what you have)
here is a drawing i just made.
You measured node B and failed. that wire is CUT.
Node B is ground. and is
lets pretend the car is 1995 ECU, (we need the ECU part number bad.)
so ill answer in short,(no fire hose)
see this, see pin B15 on the ECU , this line on your sensors IS CUT. (any where on the that line, it can be)
the wire is colored. the same. THE GRAY -YELLOW wire iS CUT. (broken)
causing up to 6 sensors to go dead, if cut mid way, then 1/2 that. i cant guess. only my voltmeter tells me exactly where its CUT. 0v good, 5v bad.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/92-95MPI-eng-...e-huge.png
since i already found the big error here, why not find the cause.
using a ohm meter, measure
key off, sensors unplugged (they have locks do not force them)
B15 ECU pin (92-95)
to each sensor, (in list) gray yellow wire
0 ohms, say less that 3ohms, as most cheap meters read high by that.
the sensors with infinity or high ohms are bad.
lets say you read.
0
0
0
infinity (1million ohms or so)means OPEN CIRCUIT.
infinity
infinity.
the wire is cut between the last 0 and the first infinity reading.
this works on all 92-95 harnesses in N.America., G16B MPI engines.
we can also use a test light (with internal battery) to check continuity, (this class failure is easy, the ECU even told you what is wrong)
or a buzz box. (battery )
or as bell (called in the old days "ringing it out")
to check continuity...
or just examine all those sensors , the gry-yell wire for damage,
but can be in the harness, i can not predict where. damage pulling engines is random, unless the harnesses are safed off.
what is yours ?
the heart and soul of EFI the "ECU" spark , injection and lots more.
id have had this out day 1.
then check the ECU caps.(inside) for leaking green snot
then set the crank pulley 17mm bolt to 94ft/lbs.. (A TSB DIRECTIVE FROM SUZUKI)
all day 1.
that one sticker
tells me volumes
what engine?
what harness?
what year,?
what country.?
what smog levels.?
and more. it also gets me on the correct schematic drawings.
just one itty bitty look..
the above example is the 8v... but yours has this sticker. (on top)
http://www.fixkick.com