just use youtube
type u-joint noise
then type transmission noise
or
drive line noise.
1000s. there.... endless..... but mostly useless. but the parts with hands and levers moving objects, the be good.
as your car is unique,
all cars are. sometimes its caused by 2 things, or more.
cases in point:
1: 2 bad u-joints.
2: same as above, add the front yoke spline is worn out. (ouch 3 things)
3: real trans noises and transfer case. even bad chain in case. if real loose it can make noise.
4: bad transmission or engine mounts (failed or loose, omg missing?)
i'm a tight wad, u-joints are always blamed first, cheap, and some feel and look ok but when removed the needles are all rusty.... and bad.
some act different (bad) when just early fails, then later they make noise under all loads or only changing loads. or can go quite with the throttle balanced.....
load = engine hp.
if still noisy, check rear axle pinion for loose. make sure that nut inside (big) is not loose.
pry the heck out of the drive shaft with a 2x4, now look for odd movements.
then use the $31 magic ear.... it is a very nice tool. dispite its low cost , its just a microphone and same amp and ear phones, (upgrade the phones for best play)
if the $31 magic tool is connected to box , 5sp. case, and it screams, loud,
then when microphone moved to transfer case sides, it is way more quite, then 5sp is the problem
doing this in one hour work allows you to gauge the level of noise. and see differences easy....
id do whole driveline. to see WHO is most noisy.
type u-joint noise
then type transmission noise
or
drive line noise.
1000s. there.... endless..... but mostly useless. but the parts with hands and levers moving objects, the be good.
as your car is unique,
all cars are. sometimes its caused by 2 things, or more.
cases in point:
1: 2 bad u-joints.
2: same as above, add the front yoke spline is worn out. (ouch 3 things)
3: real trans noises and transfer case. even bad chain in case. if real loose it can make noise.
4: bad transmission or engine mounts (failed or loose, omg missing?)
i'm a tight wad, u-joints are always blamed first, cheap, and some feel and look ok but when removed the needles are all rusty.... and bad.
some act different (bad) when just early fails, then later they make noise under all loads or only changing loads. or can go quite with the throttle balanced.....
load = engine hp.
if still noisy, check rear axle pinion for loose. make sure that nut inside (big) is not loose.
pry the heck out of the drive shaft with a 2x4, now look for odd movements.
then use the $31 magic ear.... it is a very nice tool. dispite its low cost , its just a microphone and same amp and ear phones, (upgrade the phones for best play)
if the $31 magic tool is connected to box , 5sp. case, and it screams, loud,
then when microphone moved to transfer case sides, it is way more quite, then 5sp is the problem
doing this in one hour work allows you to gauge the level of noise. and see differences easy....
id do whole driveline. to see WHO is most noisy.
http://www.fixkick.com