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Loud clunk when shifting from P to R on A/T 4speed
#13
well if a mount is missing , that can make noise. no mounts are optional, on this car, little really is... is a bare bones car.

i see the video this time
i can hear the drive shift 1 time ring like a bell, that means one end or other is loose and rings like that.
why not do that with your hands.. this is first,not with engine running...
called man handling the drive shaft, you cant hurt it, and be rough turning it.
turning it, and moving it in all plains of movement, (up, down side to side. I told you to use a 2x4, to lever it.
and to watch you tube.
here, ill do that for you, its not hard,
there you see u-joints move in ways they are never to move.
or the spline is side the front, yoke (in front of front ujoint is the yoke slider.
it likes to wear out here. your tranny man should of check this out, assuming he installed it.
or whom ever did, this is test. i have my drive shaft on the floor, and insert the front in to the rear of the transmission tail splines
i the wiggle it to see how worn the splines are. the must be no felt play, or ITS BAD.
this is pure raw mechanics here, no magic, just parts fit up and checks.

here is the first Youtube hit on this topic.

the CROSS please must not move, independant from either yoke piece. or the joint is bad.
then you look at the ends and if the end moves, independent (not rotation) from the trans tail end or from the rear axle bearing casing
this is bad front spines or bad rear bearings.
this is all super basic auto. tests.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVC76dSBNnY


the only movement allowed or is turning
or end to end, as the axle moves up and down the driving shaft gets longer, this is normal action.
but the splines and joints all just be good.
and learn to use a 2x4." using the lever principles.. pry the shaft , against the car body, see what moves right or wrong...

every shop in earth knows all this. this is a very vary common failure with joints.

another way.? to list this.
there are many kinds of play.
the shaft turns. obvious.
there is play in the rear ring gear, if the gears are dry they will ring. is the rear axle full of GL5?

the front has some gear play, but not the main shaft tail spline.(in park is best to feel this , keys in pocket)
the ujoints must no have play, (yoke to yoke, zero play allow or the needle bearings are BAD.) THERE ARE MANy YOUTUBES VIDS SHOWING THIS PLAY.
front to rear play, is there but you will not feel that. can only be seen driving hitting bumps.... but its real.
the ringing drive shaft i HEAR, is a dead giveaway.
as power is applied on a new car there is ring ear play, and is silent. (in rear axle of all cars)
but not if there is play anywhere else, seems the play is very close to the ends of the drive shaft to ring like that, IMO.
keep in mind the play stacks up on old cars , until its load.
this is CLASSIC old car , discoveries.
stacking up means easy play along the way adds up. until its too much.
the worst it gets, the faster the velocity of that action happens and more damage increases. (think swinging a hammer farther bam, more damage.)

that is all.
it might the bad mount allowing more movement and the excess play is exacerbated, by that missing part and is loader.
that mount may cause damage to the transmission tail shaft spline from walking left and right from torque reactions, of the engine to the rear.

cheers ! and good luck.

in my video (well, my found vid)
2:30 in, (mins)
i can see his spline is loose too, its a double failure that. the clamps deal is child play obvious and you dont have them.) look deeper.
but may go un-noticed.
this is an early sign of a spline walking out, going bad. they all do that. on very high mileage cars...
id buy a new yoke and pray the spine end is really ok,,,,, pray.... (finding out if both are worn is near impossible) buy the cheap part and see.... and win.

id also drop the rear drive shaft and hand spin the rear axle pinon by hand fast, to see if its loose (it has lots of 1/8 of a turn play normal) or noisy. look for bearings acting odd here. or someone left the nut that holds this loose. or removed it, ever. it must never be removed, has crush sleeves inside, (replace only)

i can tell you, that on every car that ive condemned a transmission, new u-joints fixed it.
its like $15 (parts only) and end, a fraction of the cost of any transmission work...

which end to start, who knows? it rings, which end does that, ive no clue.
http://www.fixkick.com
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RE: Loud clunk when shifting from P to R on A/T 4speed - by fixkick - 11-23-2015, 09:22 AM

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