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Loud clunk when shifting from P to R on A/T 4speed
#11
Here the video. Know you not being here makes it hard but that is the best I can do for you and me trying to be mechanically correct in my descriptions and/or findings.

https://youtu.be/Fs4xE-pknkM

Right off the start you hear the clunk whenever my wife selects R. Me being down there, sounded a lot like in the shaft?

Before doing video I did move both u-joints as hard as I could and did not notice an abnormal or strange play in both. Can try again but did not seem busted or damaged.

(11-21-2015, 04:16 AM)fixkick Wrote: what I do use use my stethoscope, and listen to the main box. if the noise is not there, then move to the transfer case, and if not there, the rear axle and if not there, its bad u-joints. ever seen them with dry bearings (inside) ????
More like what is marked red in the above line.

3: bad transmission mounts? or just loose? will make noise if loose or bad.
I have indeed one messed tranny mount which I got but he for some time limiting reason could not install. I have to do it. Maybe this is contributing?


your mech lacks these tools?
Don't know. Will have to ask him.

Javier
Sidekick 94, 1.6L Engine 16v
4 spd Auto Tranny
4 Door 2RWD
Puerto Rico
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#12
Good day. Sir did you have a chance to look at video? Maybe is not much for you to asses, but to me it sounds more (the clunk, bell like sound) at the shaft. I still have that messed tranny mount.

Buen dia!!
Sidekick 94, 1.6L Engine 16v
4 spd Auto Tranny
4 Door 2RWD
Puerto Rico
Reply
#13
well if a mount is missing , that can make noise. no mounts are optional, on this car, little really is... is a bare bones car.

i see the video this time
i can hear the drive shift 1 time ring like a bell, that means one end or other is loose and rings like that.
why not do that with your hands.. this is first,not with engine running...
called man handling the drive shaft, you cant hurt it, and be rough turning it.
turning it, and moving it in all plains of movement, (up, down side to side. I told you to use a 2x4, to lever it.
and to watch you tube.
here, ill do that for you, its not hard,
there you see u-joints move in ways they are never to move.
or the spline is side the front, yoke (in front of front ujoint is the yoke slider.
it likes to wear out here. your tranny man should of check this out, assuming he installed it.
or whom ever did, this is test. i have my drive shaft on the floor, and insert the front in to the rear of the transmission tail splines
i the wiggle it to see how worn the splines are. the must be no felt play, or ITS BAD.
this is pure raw mechanics here, no magic, just parts fit up and checks.

here is the first Youtube hit on this topic.

the CROSS please must not move, independant from either yoke piece. or the joint is bad.
then you look at the ends and if the end moves, independent (not rotation) from the trans tail end or from the rear axle bearing casing
this is bad front spines or bad rear bearings.
this is all super basic auto. tests.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVC76dSBNnY


the only movement allowed or is turning
or end to end, as the axle moves up and down the driving shaft gets longer, this is normal action.
but the splines and joints all just be good.
and learn to use a 2x4." using the lever principles.. pry the shaft , against the car body, see what moves right or wrong...

every shop in earth knows all this. this is a very vary common failure with joints.

another way.? to list this.
there are many kinds of play.
the shaft turns. obvious.
there is play in the rear ring gear, if the gears are dry they will ring. is the rear axle full of GL5?

the front has some gear play, but not the main shaft tail spline.(in park is best to feel this , keys in pocket)
the ujoints must no have play, (yoke to yoke, zero play allow or the needle bearings are BAD.) THERE ARE MANy YOUTUBES VIDS SHOWING THIS PLAY.
front to rear play, is there but you will not feel that. can only be seen driving hitting bumps.... but its real.
the ringing drive shaft i HEAR, is a dead giveaway.
as power is applied on a new car there is ring ear play, and is silent. (in rear axle of all cars)
but not if there is play anywhere else, seems the play is very close to the ends of the drive shaft to ring like that, IMO.
keep in mind the play stacks up on old cars , until its load.
this is CLASSIC old car , discoveries.
stacking up means easy play along the way adds up. until its too much.
the worst it gets, the faster the velocity of that action happens and more damage increases. (think swinging a hammer farther bam, more damage.)

that is all.
it might the bad mount allowing more movement and the excess play is exacerbated, by that missing part and is loader.
that mount may cause damage to the transmission tail shaft spline from walking left and right from torque reactions, of the engine to the rear.

cheers ! and good luck.

in my video (well, my found vid)
2:30 in, (mins)
i can see his spline is loose too, its a double failure that. the clamps deal is child play obvious and you dont have them.) look deeper.
but may go un-noticed.
this is an early sign of a spline walking out, going bad. they all do that. on very high mileage cars...
id buy a new yoke and pray the spine end is really ok,,,,, pray.... (finding out if both are worn is near impossible) buy the cheap part and see.... and win.

id also drop the rear drive shaft and hand spin the rear axle pinon by hand fast, to see if its loose (it has lots of 1/8 of a turn play normal) or noisy. look for bearings acting odd here. or someone left the nut that holds this loose. or removed it, ever. it must never be removed, has crush sleeves inside, (replace only)

i can tell you, that on every car that ive condemned a transmission, new u-joints fixed it.
its like $15 (parts only) and end, a fraction of the cost of any transmission work...

which end to start, who knows? it rings, which end does that, ive no clue.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#14
Im laughing my way out as I write this post!! Very hilarious, that guy from the U-joint video. hahahaha!! Very laid-back guy. Like it. Ok will do so. Like you say 20 year old u-joints might as well change them. As well as install that tranny mount.

Will let you know what went on.

Thanks!!!
Sidekick 94, 1.6L Engine 16v
4 spd Auto Tranny
4 Door 2RWD
Puerto Rico
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#15
sure.
keep in mind, noise diagnosis is no easy, you don't have a electronic stethoscope. so cant drive and listen, and find 99% off all noises,
in the case of U-joints, we cant clamp there, so , if all the other parts are noise free, then that leaves just the joints.
but we man handle them, do you under stand that? use a 2x4 and the lever action (Archimedes, ways,. physics...?)
noise can telegraph,
means noise can be far way and move through metal and land elsewhere and that elsewhere, makes noise. this fact can make diagnosis very hard.

the microphones can be clamped on to any thing, (use your wild imagination here, (not drive shafts , sure)
my noise page covers that

http://www.fixkick.com/NOISE.html

read that yet? see my $31 steelman electronic ear?
worth every penny. in finding the tough problems.
eg'
ah, it is the axle , its not the left, its not the center, its omg on the right side, easy as eating apple pie.

the main rear drive shaft on your car is RINGING like a bell... this is very TELLING.....
http://www.fixkick.com
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#16
Where is that other video you found? Your personal video? I only see the funny guy youtube U-joint video. You even mention that at 2:30 something happens?
Or is in the website gallery?

Thanks!!
Sidekick 94, 1.6L Engine 16v
4 spd Auto Tranny
4 Door 2RWD
Puerto Rico
Reply
#17
just use youtube
type u-joint noise
then type transmission noise
or
drive line noise.

1000s. there.... endless..... but mostly useless. but the parts with hands and levers moving objects, the be good.
as your car is unique,

all cars are. sometimes its caused by 2 things, or more.

cases in point:
1: 2 bad u-joints.
2: same as above, add the front yoke spline is worn out. (ouch 3 things)
3: real trans noises and transfer case. even bad chain in case. if real loose it can make noise.
4: bad transmission or engine mounts (failed or loose, omg missing?)

i'm a tight wad, u-joints are always blamed first, cheap, and some feel and look ok but when removed the needles are all rusty.... and bad.
some act different (bad) when just early fails, then later they make noise under all loads or only changing loads. or can go quite with the throttle balanced.....
load = engine hp.

if still noisy, check rear axle pinion for loose. make sure that nut inside (big) is not loose.
pry the heck out of the drive shaft with a 2x4, now look for odd movements.
then use the $31 magic ear.... it is a very nice tool. dispite its low cost , its just a microphone and same amp and ear phones, (upgrade the phones for best play)

if the $31 magic tool is connected to box , 5sp. case, and it screams, loud,
then when microphone moved to transfer case sides, it is way more quite, then 5sp is the problem
doing this in one hour work allows you to gauge the level of noise. and see differences easy....
id do whole driveline. to see WHO is most noisy.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#18
Got it sir. Will do so, hopefully soon. Im doing 2 cars at a time so Im juggling my time slots for doing them. But for sure will do.

Gracias!!
Sidekick 94, 1.6L Engine 16v
4 spd Auto Tranny
4 Door 2RWD
Puerto Rico
Reply
#19
for sure i don't really know your cause, only advice... nothing more.
noise discovery is no easy thing... on any machine....
eg:
some times is easy, we use the above tool, hear the rear alternator bearing going out. early.

i do wish you and easy discovery and cheapest part bad... .I DO. !
http://www.fixkick.com
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#20
I know sir. Your continued support is greatly appreciated. BTW the DMM will arrive today. So I can at least try to set that duty on the ISC.

Ahh looks like DMM did arrive but mailman left the dreaded pink slip, meaning I will have to go to post office, arrrrgh!!

gracias!!

Fix these are the U-joints available at Rockauto.

http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=212

Any better than the other? I know all are good. This is besides if they actually fit. Will do so later on to confirm fitment at manufacturer web site.

GMB is about $6 the other 2 about $15. BTW I need two right? It says that they work for both U-joints?

Cheers!!
Sidekick 94, 1.6L Engine 16v
4 spd Auto Tranny
4 Door 2RWD
Puerto Rico
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