10-30-2015, 09:41 PM
first is compression , got 150psi or more.. most doe 180psi or more hot , W.o.t> yours cold will do at least 150 psi ,at sea level.
it will run.. keep the faith! ok you got 170, cam seems timed right, at E marks....
next is timing the distributor correct. and with correct rotation direction (shown wrong in most books, cept suz books)
i cant hear the test fuel test run, but did it sound and run perfect.? for like 3 seconds every test.
if not ? this must be right.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/firing16v.jpg
the the spark timing must be near 0, is it ?
the egr, volts are odd, VSV are odd, they default oddly, open, and when ecu wakes up, they close.
TPS
the tps volts are about 1v at idle (meter lead to ground black. pin3 , gray only wire . and go over 4 volts WOT.
there are 4 pins, and bottom pin on TPS is ground,and reads near 0v, if not the ecu ground is cut. pih 3 is throttle angle, gray.
if pin 3 was backwards ( the TPS/ECU logic, the ECU cuts all fueling...)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/95-TPS-adj1w.jpg
is engine flooding, ? or not?
ok my check list. (when did engine last run ok, last year, who knows when, long ago?)
1: compression 170 checked, good.
key on CEL glows (and flips off above 400rpm> start detection, good)
Does the ECU flash code 12 , on demand (diag jumper inserted to DLC next to the battery?)????
2: spark #1 firing near zero.... strobe tested. all 4 sparks firing...?
2a; spark wires routed correctly ,1,3,4,2, CCW. rotor direct. http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/firing16v.jpg
3: test fuel runs engine, ok.... and sounds really really good. no banging sounds, and sounds like a normal engine should. test like this.
4: fueling is bad. and next and last.
is it flooding or starving ? for fuel.... (spark tips checked? after cranking session)
dry plugs are lack of injection if it don't start. (i the 3rd pin is not near 1v, but found like at 4vdc cranking the ECU cuts fuel. ( it thinks driver is doing the unflood method) pin 3 gray is throttle ANGLE.. at idle , the volts are not critical !,, must about 0.5 to 1v realm here. pin 3. the ecu self calibrates this pin.
DID car last run ok,like 3 years ago?, yes, then the injectors might be clogged, those 10micron screens do that, with bad fuel....
(key clue here is 30psi fuel pressure , noid test passes, but no fueling happens, the injectors are packed or jammed)
Last:
wet is flooding. (1 flooding or all 4 flooding? is one more key clue and fact.)
if flooding, we check lots of things, a whole new ball of wax if all the above is ok (compression spark etc) the exception is a melted CAT, do you have CAT still?
wet is (if spark good and timed right)
excessive fuel pressure, or bad FPR, most 1995 the PFR is bad or near so. if still 20 years old, they take a beating,,,,
what is fuel pressure.? keyon 3 time, then what is fuel pressure cranking,,
36psi keyon
and drops to 30 running, is typical
or
43 keyon to 37 runnng....
per this page
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/16...ess95W.jpg
the key on pressure must not be 60psi, if is the FPR is stuck closed or its return line crushed,(blocked)
if the ECT reads, -40f , engines can food,
using and ohm meter, it will read near 3000 ohms..(higher on very cold days) and 300 ohms on hot running engine.
if cat is suspect, i made this page too.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/cat-con-tests.html
the FPR will be near
TPS comments( nice testing btw)
pin 3 on the TPS must not be 4v, or anywhere near that. if it is someone wired it backwards. or pin 1 ground on the TPS is cut , the TPS steals its ground form deep in side the TPS, from the TPS ground pins....
id be all over pin 1......... if pin 3 reads wrong..... id be.....
test the TPS while plugged in.
the tps pin 3 , the ECU has a pull down resistor inside, so that if the TPS blows up, pin 3 falls to 0. not 4v.
keep tps plugged in and back probe it,
pin 4 is 4.75 to 5.25vdc(power)
pin 1 is 0v.
pin 3 is about 1v. (tps is not accurate on ohms, its very crude) 3500- 6500 ohms(pin 1 to 4) is the range, yes, crude it is. and works just fine like that.
good luck ! and cheers.
it will run.. keep the faith! ok you got 170, cam seems timed right, at E marks....
next is timing the distributor correct. and with correct rotation direction (shown wrong in most books, cept suz books)
i cant hear the test fuel test run, but did it sound and run perfect.? for like 3 seconds every test.
if not ? this must be right.
http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/firing16v.jpg
the the spark timing must be near 0, is it ?
the egr, volts are odd, VSV are odd, they default oddly, open, and when ecu wakes up, they close.
TPS
the tps volts are about 1v at idle (meter lead to ground black. pin3 , gray only wire . and go over 4 volts WOT.
there are 4 pins, and bottom pin on TPS is ground,and reads near 0v, if not the ecu ground is cut. pih 3 is throttle angle, gray.
if pin 3 was backwards ( the TPS/ECU logic, the ECU cuts all fueling...)
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/95-TPS-adj1w.jpg
is engine flooding, ? or not?
ok my check list. (when did engine last run ok, last year, who knows when, long ago?)
1: compression 170 checked, good.
key on CEL glows (and flips off above 400rpm> start detection, good)
Does the ECU flash code 12 , on demand (diag jumper inserted to DLC next to the battery?)????
2: spark #1 firing near zero.... strobe tested. all 4 sparks firing...?
2a; spark wires routed correctly ,1,3,4,2, CCW. rotor direct. http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/firing16v.jpg
3: test fuel runs engine, ok.... and sounds really really good. no banging sounds, and sounds like a normal engine should. test like this.
4: fueling is bad. and next and last.
is it flooding or starving ? for fuel.... (spark tips checked? after cranking session)
dry plugs are lack of injection if it don't start. (i the 3rd pin is not near 1v, but found like at 4vdc cranking the ECU cuts fuel. ( it thinks driver is doing the unflood method) pin 3 gray is throttle ANGLE.. at idle , the volts are not critical !,, must about 0.5 to 1v realm here. pin 3. the ecu self calibrates this pin.
DID car last run ok,like 3 years ago?, yes, then the injectors might be clogged, those 10micron screens do that, with bad fuel....
(key clue here is 30psi fuel pressure , noid test passes, but no fueling happens, the injectors are packed or jammed)
Last:
wet is flooding. (1 flooding or all 4 flooding? is one more key clue and fact.)
if flooding, we check lots of things, a whole new ball of wax if all the above is ok (compression spark etc) the exception is a melted CAT, do you have CAT still?
wet is (if spark good and timed right)
excessive fuel pressure, or bad FPR, most 1995 the PFR is bad or near so. if still 20 years old, they take a beating,,,,
what is fuel pressure.? keyon 3 time, then what is fuel pressure cranking,,
36psi keyon
and drops to 30 running, is typical
or
43 keyon to 37 runnng....
per this page
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/PUMP/16...ess95W.jpg
the key on pressure must not be 60psi, if is the FPR is stuck closed or its return line crushed,(blocked)
if the ECT reads, -40f , engines can food,
using and ohm meter, it will read near 3000 ohms..(higher on very cold days) and 300 ohms on hot running engine.
if cat is suspect, i made this page too.
http://www.fixkick.com/sensors/tests/cat-con-tests.html
the FPR will be near
TPS comments( nice testing btw)
pin 3 on the TPS must not be 4v, or anywhere near that. if it is someone wired it backwards. or pin 1 ground on the TPS is cut , the TPS steals its ground form deep in side the TPS, from the TPS ground pins....
id be all over pin 1......... if pin 3 reads wrong..... id be.....
test the TPS while plugged in.
the tps pin 3 , the ECU has a pull down resistor inside, so that if the TPS blows up, pin 3 falls to 0. not 4v.
keep tps plugged in and back probe it,
pin 4 is 4.75 to 5.25vdc(power)
pin 1 is 0v.
pin 3 is about 1v. (tps is not accurate on ohms, its very crude) 3500- 6500 ohms(pin 1 to 4) is the range, yes, crude it is. and works just fine like that.
good luck ! and cheers.
http://www.fixkick.com