the FSM page on this is under topic, step 1, CEL..
it tells you to turn on the key, CEL glow? (is yours out. dead or stuck on glowing)
step 2, if not glowing ever. then the next step is to pull the ECU connectors.
and ground the CEL pin.
It must glow now or the lamp is blown out, or prev. owner removed it, as is so common or other dirty tricks there.
if it glows now, and the ECU has power , on its 2 power pins, connected up. the ECU is bad.
lets drop to basic, ECU.
The CEL glows at key on, to tell you 3 things 1: i have power, 2: I booted ok and seem ok (rudimentry) and last IM not in BACKUP mode (dead)
IT must glow, (not flash, glow) .
Flashing only happens with B to C jumpered on the near battery DLC connector. that too must work. or ECU is bad.
I guess you are failing test 1.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html#Tests
the pin to ground to test CEL and not have to rip cluster out is here.
pin B13 is the ECU CEL output pin, the connector MUST BE unplugged first.
if grounding that pin works ,the CLUSTER is working (this is the FSM book step, but the pin varies by engine)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg
used ECU can be had for$50 on ebay (not the scalpers) but sold by regular folks. its easy to tell that,, the price is fair.
its still a crap shoot. the used one can be worse. many are.
if it never leaked acid, its probably repairable.
one common failure is the corner cap leaks.
seen here very clearly,
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_4.html
and here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_6.html
the acid will find a way to eat up very importrant copper traces, causing total dead ECU or one stuck in backup mode forever.
what is backup mode.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/LimpHome/failsafe.html
it's failsafe, off the cliff. of death. aka, my buddies name Grenade mode...(lol)
cardone sells the ecu for $400 , it be like new...
but is expensive.
i always carry a spare, one that works... as they will be harder to find,.. as time rolls on... some blow up and cant be fixed.
do you mean the lamp fails to ever glow? now?
with the NAG removed?????????
it can glow,
it can be dead (out)
it can flash codes (on demand)
it can even try to flash a code and stop mid stride (auto reboots does that and corner cap is dead)< caused but internal regulator , DROP OUT)
it tells you to turn on the key, CEL glow? (is yours out. dead or stuck on glowing)
step 2, if not glowing ever. then the next step is to pull the ECU connectors.
and ground the CEL pin.
It must glow now or the lamp is blown out, or prev. owner removed it, as is so common or other dirty tricks there.
if it glows now, and the ECU has power , on its 2 power pins, connected up. the ECU is bad.
lets drop to basic, ECU.
The CEL glows at key on, to tell you 3 things 1: i have power, 2: I booted ok and seem ok (rudimentry) and last IM not in BACKUP mode (dead)
IT must glow, (not flash, glow) .
Flashing only happens with B to C jumpered on the near battery DLC connector. that too must work. or ECU is bad.
I guess you are failing test 1.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/ECU.html#Tests
the pin to ground to test CEL and not have to rip cluster out is here.
pin B13 is the ECU CEL output pin, the connector MUST BE unplugged first.
if grounding that pin works ,the CLUSTER is working (this is the FSM book step, but the pin varies by engine)
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/8v-tbi-schematic91to95.jpg
used ECU can be had for$50 on ebay (not the scalpers) but sold by regular folks. its easy to tell that,, the price is fair.
its still a crap shoot. the used one can be worse. many are.
if it never leaked acid, its probably repairable.
one common failure is the corner cap leaks.
seen here very clearly,
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_4.html
and here.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/hell/html/image_6.html
the acid will find a way to eat up very importrant copper traces, causing total dead ECU or one stuck in backup mode forever.
what is backup mode.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/LimpHome/failsafe.html
it's failsafe, off the cliff. of death. aka, my buddies name Grenade mode...(lol)
cardone sells the ecu for $400 , it be like new...
but is expensive.
i always carry a spare, one that works... as they will be harder to find,.. as time rolls on... some blow up and cant be fixed.
do you mean the lamp fails to ever glow? now?
with the NAG removed?????????
it can glow,
it can be dead (out)
it can flash codes (on demand)
it can even try to flash a code and stop mid stride (auto reboots does that and corner cap is dead)< caused but internal regulator , DROP OUT)
http://www.fixkick.com