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Got spark, got fuel, got compression, no start :/
#4
(09-29-2015, 09:57 AM)DesmondGhostRider Wrote: Engine Light:
B to C is same as what I was calling 2 to 3. (GREAT, and is 4 pins, that tells me lots too) some books do use numbers its ok, no matter what does matter is the pin holes used.


I will check to see if its a CAL car tomoz when I get back to shop.
Usually the switches are between the steering wheel and front left speaker in my experience. (SORRY,no that is not correct. that is on 4door and newer cars.. )
your car is a 1991. and my page on NAG covers this 100% and there are 3 places, from 1989 to 1995, a fact.
sorry but suzuki makes this hard. its like they wanted us to fail, really.....


my guess is the car is FED
and that the NAG is SET, "slide the switch lever", or unplug it forever, (best) the 4 pin conn. 3 wired goes to rear of speedo head, just unplug it so
we can do the flash codes first, its always first. after all if the ECU is screaming for help , it be crazy to move past that, (1st things 1st and all that)

as you can see I do hate the nag, i kill every one i see. it's such a time wasting device.. .
Nobody deserves,. a nag in 2015,,, time to end the panic of 1991 and leaded gas.... its over. now....



I will look around and see if the connector is still there. Is it just a 2 pin pigtail? (nag?) NO ITS 3 PINS
I guess you missed my nag page>? here is my nag page and then my arm.
http://www.fixkick.com/CEL/NAG-Lamp.html

[Image: miles1w.jpg]

i sold my 91 tracker, but will never forget the INVISIBLE freak'n nag, as seen here (1991 for real and tracker too....USA, FED E03 , VIN)

[Image: mileage-cancel-sw-1w.jpg]



agree vsv is ECU related. Need to verify the ECU is good before I mess with it any further. (if the nag is removed and ECU is dead, for codes 12
or no codes on demand the ECU is bad)


-----
Ill swap ecu caps to be safe. if they arent bad now they will be bad soon. (LOL, just replace the large corned cap, is it BLACK?????????)

All 4 are sparking and its good spark. All spark wires are working as well.
but is it timed near zero?
but is compression over 150psi (did you do lash with a new belt, its required, in the process) on all 8v.


Grabbing a new timing light tomorrow. (good)

I will get actual compression numbers tomorrow. (vg)

I'll grab a vac/fuel pressure gauge tomorrow too. Good thing to have. (id hold off, but it can find a bad FPR regulator as most are toast now)


Yes I am in USA. GOOD, then it can have a NAG, this is the only country with nag, but never in canada.

you did lash too? lash? (valve lash)

im answering serially again,... sorry....
LASH, aka. valve lifter clearance lash settings.
1991 is 8v, engine head.
and the 8v the belt tension is set with lash loose then corrected at last steps.

step 18
then 40 corrects step 18
http://www.fixkick.com/t-belt/tbelt8v.html

this is the long play
the short play is in the 1 sheet in the GATES belt box.

good luck

i use compression tests, as my audit to my self. to see if i did it right
after all if lash is wrong, the valves will burn to a crisp is set too tight or if too loose beat them selves to death(that racket what is that?)

i think my 8v page is the only internet page that shows all the pit falls there are many to say the least.

if compression is good (150+), and spark timed right? and firing NOT set like the OTHER CAR (MPI)
and THE CEL flashes 12s, we can go to the next levels,, RUNNING? cheers to you.

cheers.

the VSVs love to chatter
why?
because if the ECU boots over and over and over.
each boot resets them , so they chatter, and MUST NEVER DO THAT, ever.

i even have a page for just that.
http://www.fixkick.com/ECU/clicking/clicking.html

there are basic ways to click. MACRO reasons....
1: bad ecu (corn cap, 99% cause or acid leaks same)
2: bad ground to ecu
3: loose ig-coil or FI fuse, (or they (Fuse x2) have hair cracks, replace them) rusty fuses?
4: outputs on ECU shorted, (not inputs)

in truth
this TBI car (nag removed for ever) works just like most other TBI cars.
the diagnostic steps are same, mostly.
compression ok.
cat not melted. (usually makes above fail if melted 100%)) if true, rack back exh, header at head,make a gap there and is compression ok now, oops it started?
EGR not stuck open
engine cam timed to perfection and lash.
spark timed near 0Deg BTDC or as the hood sticker tells you, and spark gap too. per same sticker, and done with TIMING FREEZE SET. (after it runs,use the freeze)
ECU flashes 12s (must or some other very important code like 41,42 , both kill injections now)
Injects.
now runs.


one more.
the distrib cap wires are wiring backwards from the 16v head.
so if reading a GM book you WILL FAIL.
use my drawings, for the 8v and win.
the rotor turns backwards, so #2 on the other side of #1 , if not set up 8v ways, it will never run.

we could do this 1 step at time.

step one remove the freak'n nag, switch, (nirvana happens)
http://www.fixkick.com
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RE: Got spark, got fuel, got compression, no start :/ - by fixkick - 09-29-2015, 11:16 PM

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