if the valve poppet to , sucks, (breaks off)
it is possible for it to jam and then move, and not jam ,then jam again, but would be random.
the engine is free running, but only if the valves, retract. fully and normally.
you can put crank with cylinder #1 (4 is tdc too) at TDC and spin the cam cog (wheel/belt off) and valves will not hit.
but if the valve has huge damage (say bent or sucked or keeper dropped, or spring busted up & collapsed, all that flies out the window)
it really does not matter, the head comes off, and the truth rings free.
a spark hole bore scope is like $20 today.
the CCW/CW thing is very suspicious of consistent, no lie. hints at crank/ rod. (rod snap)?
one can look down spark holes.
using just a flash light
jog crank, oops #4 don't piston top don't move? or piston top looks beat to death?
then the $13 solution (search ebay "bore scope 7mm")
7mm cam.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-10M-6LED-USB-W...2c9b98b3c0
this thing has saved me ,just 1 time over $1000
going to places no man can go....
it is possible for it to jam and then move, and not jam ,then jam again, but would be random.
the engine is free running, but only if the valves, retract. fully and normally.
you can put crank with cylinder #1 (4 is tdc too) at TDC and spin the cam cog (wheel/belt off) and valves will not hit.
but if the valve has huge damage (say bent or sucked or keeper dropped, or spring busted up & collapsed, all that flies out the window)
it really does not matter, the head comes off, and the truth rings free.
a spark hole bore scope is like $20 today.
the CCW/CW thing is very suspicious of consistent, no lie. hints at crank/ rod. (rod snap)?
one can look down spark holes.
using just a flash light
jog crank, oops #4 don't piston top don't move? or piston top looks beat to death?
then the $13 solution (search ebay "bore scope 7mm")
7mm cam.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-10M-6LED-USB-W...2c9b98b3c0
this thing has saved me ,just 1 time over $1000
going to places no man can go....
http://www.fixkick.com