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Engine Seized?
#1
My son's 91 Sidekick (8 valve 1.6) engine appears to be sized. The car is full of oil; so, I do not understand how it could seize?! Apparently when he was driving, he heard noise in the engine compartment and pulled to the side and left the car there for his father to tow!

Of course, I checked the starter first; and it passed all the tests.

I then checked whether the timing belt had any issue, which was replaced less than 1000 miles ago, which I found to be intact.

I have done the suggested remedy of pouring some ant-seize fluid in each cylinder, and waited for a few days. I then tried to move the crack shaft clockwise, which in the process, I broke my ratchet wrench!

Strangely, when I move the crankshaft counter-clockwise, it appears that the cylinders move; however, turning it clock-wise is impossible.

1. Would turning crankshaft counter-clockwise cause any harm to the engine.
2. What should I be doing at this stage?

Your comments are much appreciated.
[color=#800080][b]91 Sidekick JX, 8V, S. Carolina Car, 2 dr, 3 speed Auto Trani, Halifax, NS, Canada[/b][/color]
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#2
if full of oil most 8v never seize unless overheated.
sounds like it sucked a valve
yes, ccw is harmless.
the engine is free running CW or CCW.!
and only sucked valves do that.. period. (well, not a gross collapsed piston)
drop the cam belt. see it turn good now? i bet yes. so is not seized. if true.

this is easy, pull all 4 spark plugs
look down all 4 holes, see damage, you will.
and
pull valve cover, see a value spring loose? (keepers missing) or a stem tip stuck down and does not move with crank jogged.
if above ok, drop cam belt and turn, free running now, is head pull time.
if belt drop fails, to free it up, the rods are bad. or related, crank rod fails. even a cracked crank shaft. (but only head off proves this 100%, as a sucked valve can jam up regardless of belt off)
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
Thank you very much Fixkick. Just another less intelligent question; why the engine can rotate freely CCW, but the valve gets stuck when turned CW?
Regards,
Zackman

(09-21-2015, 11:46 PM)fixkick Wrote: if full of oil most 8v never seize unless overheated.
sounds like it sucked a valve
yes, ccw is harmless.
the engine is free running CW or CCW.!
and only sucked valves do that.. period. (well, not a gross collapsed piston)
drop the cam belt. see it turn good now? i bet yes. so is not seized. if true.

this is easy, pull all 4 spark plugs
look down all 4 holes, see damage, you will.
and
pull valve cover, see a value spring loose? (keepers missing) or a stem tip stuck down and does not move with crank jogged.
if above ok, drop cam belt and turn, free running now, is head pull time.
if belt drop fails, to free it up, the rods are bad. or related, crank rod fails. even a cracked crank shaft. (but only head off proves this 100%, as a sucked valve can jam up regardless of belt off)
[color=#800080][b]91 Sidekick JX, 8V, S. Carolina Car, 2 dr, 3 speed Auto Trani, Halifax, NS, Canada[/b][/color]
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#4
if the valve poppet to , sucks, (breaks off)
it is possible for it to jam and then move, and not jam ,then jam again, but would be random.
the engine is free running, but only if the valves, retract. fully and normally.
you can put crank with cylinder #1 (4 is tdc too) at TDC and spin the cam cog (wheel/belt off) and valves will not hit.
but if the valve has huge damage (say bent or sucked or keeper dropped, or spring busted up & collapsed, all that flies out the window)
it really does not matter, the head comes off, and the truth rings free.
a spark hole bore scope is like $20 today.

the CCW/CW thing is very suspicious of consistent, no lie. hints at crank/ rod. (rod snap)?

one can look down spark holes.
using just a flash light
jog crank, oops #4 don't piston top don't move? or piston top looks beat to death?

then the $13 solution (search ebay "bore scope 7mm")
7mm cam.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-10M-6LED-USB-W...2c9b98b3c0

this thing has saved me ,just 1 time over $1000
going to places no man can go....
http://www.fixkick.com
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#5
Thank you so much for the explanation. I actually do have the scope!
Cheers!
[color=#800080][b]91 Sidekick JX, 8V, S. Carolina Car, 2 dr, 3 speed Auto Trani, Halifax, NS, Canada[/b][/color]
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#6
cool... its a real fun thing to own..
crossing fingers is something easy and cheap to fix !!!!
http://www.fixkick.com
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#7
Hi Fixckick.
yesterday, I managed to take the head apart, and found the issue! (see below).
Now, the questions I have are as follows:

1. A couple of the pistons' heads (1&4), as can be seen, as well as the associated valves have considerable accumulation of carbon on them. What has caused this, and how it could be prevented in the future.

2. Can I replace the connecting rod without pulling the engine off of the car?

Thank you for your time in advance!


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
[color=#800080][b]91 Sidekick JX, 8V, S. Carolina Car, 2 dr, 3 speed Auto Trani, Halifax, NS, Canada[/b][/color]
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#8
is car 4wd (Jx)????
the engine needs to be pulled, or if frisky read my front axle drop page. it shows a contributor, dopping axle to change the rusted through pan.
but you still need to fight around crossmembers
answering for 4WD

http://www.fixkick.com/axles/Pan-drop/pandrop.html




the bare block is only like 38lbs
just block and tackle (or dirt cheap come-a-long) will pull this very very light engine.

quoting my text page

one can walk around with block crank and rods like a babe in arms. (short block)
27+25+38+22=112 lbs (no cam) with fly.

block and head weight 90lbs with fly off (no cam)

max is 125lbs.... nothing really.

if fact with head off, one can just lift it out. by hand. 100lbs max.
i weighed each part, bored one day, waiting for new crankshaft.

you need to inspect all bearings. after all if one failed, did all the other get huge damage and only #1 was the weak link?
common that.
or the #1 bearing shell, has a clogged, oil oil in shell., common with RTV contamination.!

front pig gone.

[Image: pan1.jpg]

sorry for loss of rod 1.
sad to see.
hope its limited to only the #1 rod journal.
my guess, is the #1 journal will be wreck. (it did seize, is my guess)

#1 is so close to the pump. wonder why it lost pressure... odd. (i bet the shell oil hole is packed in crap)

the oil starts here
[Image: freeze-damage97w.JPG]
and enters main 1.
and travels thru center of crank to rod 1. shell, same way as #1 above
then feeds the hole in the shell. and at idle the bearing has 50PSI pressure, cold 10w-30.
the metal of crank never touches the rod side. or boom.
yours lost pressure at the rod.
if the main#1 looks bad, then the pressure was bad there, first. (looking at all journals and shells, usually tells you the FULL story)

each of the 4 holes (small) above keep the crank shaft inside gallery pressurized at all times, but the weak link is junk landing on the rod, shell, oil feed holes
it likes to stack up there, additive. and ends soon.

sometimes the crank gallery can packup.


http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-p...ge_15.html
http://www.fixkick.com
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#9
Thank you so much for all your explanations, and ys, teh car is JX 4-wheel drive

The engine has only 109,000 miles! Would you know what caused all those carbon build ups!

BTW, last fall, one of the hoses to the rad had a leak, and my son (zero experience or knowledge about cars!), drove the car while steam coming out of the engine compartment. I thought he would have blown the head gasket. But after repairing the hose, the car functioned all right , till a couple of weeks ago. Do you think that heat was the culprit??

Thanks again FIXKICK!
[color=#800080][b]91 Sidekick JX, 8V, S. Carolina Car, 2 dr, 3 speed Auto Trani, Halifax, NS, Canada[/b][/color]
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