1996 Beta 1 engine. 1.6 to 1.8L.
they are cheaper, for the maker (hyundai) (no electronics, no amp, no driver inside, just a passive coil) dirt cheap..
some cars like this, i saw that they have this coupling device on the cam. that allows the cam sensor to work at all and fails or is put on wrong.
the ckp has tone wheel, that on some cars can fall off (yours looks bolted on big time)
some times the person puts in a used engine, and it has the wrong tone ring.
the non hall sensors the cap is important, as is a good ton ring and , the right ring, with the the missing tooth.
the non Hall sensors have very very weak signals, this is why the HALL was invented, to make the hall sensor output 4v signals at 1 rpm or 6000 rpm
see my video above going at 1 RPM?
the hall sensor is electronic, it has 3 pins, does yours, i keep asking, .?? are both your CKP and CMP both 2 pin sensors.????
2 pin bad.
3 good. see?
but you must deal with what Siemens gave you,
this all all backwards.
first we scan it to see if the ECU is throwing CKP or CMP errors. after all. its the ECU that needs to be made happy, so asking it , tops our list.
if the ECU shows the CKP bad, the car will never start.
if so, then we scope it (after cleaning its mag tip, they can bet dirty, with metal particles over long time)
then replace it, if that easy step fails. that leaves but 2 more steps
scoping it. does it make 1 to 2 volts cranking ,yes, no, if yes, then the ECU is bad.
if no? the wiring for the sensor is bad.
the hall sensor makes perfect digital wave forms at all times and speeds.
the non hall coil sensor does not, it just very weak at low speeds, ok at idle on up.
its just a coil of wire and magnet. at low RPM Faradays laws, make the voltage very very low. (too slow)
http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#CMP
this is a 1991 cam sensor, that works at 1 rpm, even slower, even 1/10 of a RPM. by hand.
see the LED flash.
that is a HALL sensor.
the NON HALL can never do that ,ever.
the Siemens company if they they used 2 pin Non hall sensors (did they) for both CKP and CMP?>?????
if they did,
then the ECU has the electronics in side IT to do all that.
it has a powerful amplifier with a zero crossing detected (the true names) and this makes the cheaper gutless non hall sensors work.
but the gap needs to be right.
the wires must be perfect to transport those weak single to the distant ECU, like what 4 feet distant?
have you checked each sensors wire, for damage and continuity end to end?
advantages of hall.
1: costs more, oops not advantage.
2: strong perfect signals at all RPM , even in ALASKA, with near dead or weak battery.
3: no fiddling with GAPS.
4: vastly easier to test, with even an LED, lamp.... see mine. flashing????
dis-advanges of HALL
1: takes 1 more wire to make it work (power) so wire costs are more, say 10cents? again is your a 2 wire or 3 wire sensor.
2: takes 12vdc to the sensor, or 5v or 8v , depends no maker of car. but takes power there, if power is lost to there, the sensor goes DEAD.
![[Image: 3_01_10_15_1_43_06.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_01_10_15_1_43_06.jpeg)
ok the 3rd pin is ground. on CKP
if the schmematic is accurate.
the CMP is HALL
and the CKP is non hall , a VR coil sensor its called. coil1, coil 2 and ground.
they are cheaper, for the maker (hyundai) (no electronics, no amp, no driver inside, just a passive coil) dirt cheap..
some cars like this, i saw that they have this coupling device on the cam. that allows the cam sensor to work at all and fails or is put on wrong.
the ckp has tone wheel, that on some cars can fall off (yours looks bolted on big time)
some times the person puts in a used engine, and it has the wrong tone ring.
the non hall sensors the cap is important, as is a good ton ring and , the right ring, with the the missing tooth.
the non Hall sensors have very very weak signals, this is why the HALL was invented, to make the hall sensor output 4v signals at 1 rpm or 6000 rpm
see my video above going at 1 RPM?
the hall sensor is electronic, it has 3 pins, does yours, i keep asking, .?? are both your CKP and CMP both 2 pin sensors.????
2 pin bad.
3 good. see?
but you must deal with what Siemens gave you,
this all all backwards.
first we scan it to see if the ECU is throwing CKP or CMP errors. after all. its the ECU that needs to be made happy, so asking it , tops our list.
if the ECU shows the CKP bad, the car will never start.
if so, then we scope it (after cleaning its mag tip, they can bet dirty, with metal particles over long time)
then replace it, if that easy step fails. that leaves but 2 more steps
scoping it. does it make 1 to 2 volts cranking ,yes, no, if yes, then the ECU is bad.
if no? the wiring for the sensor is bad.
the hall sensor makes perfect digital wave forms at all times and speeds.
the non hall coil sensor does not, it just very weak at low speeds, ok at idle on up.
its just a coil of wire and magnet. at low RPM Faradays laws, make the voltage very very low. (too slow)
http://www.fixkick.com/videos/FLV-all/showtime.html#CMP
this is a 1991 cam sensor, that works at 1 rpm, even slower, even 1/10 of a RPM. by hand.
see the LED flash.
that is a HALL sensor.
the NON HALL can never do that ,ever.
the Siemens company if they they used 2 pin Non hall sensors (did they) for both CKP and CMP?>?????
if they did,
then the ECU has the electronics in side IT to do all that.
it has a powerful amplifier with a zero crossing detected (the true names) and this makes the cheaper gutless non hall sensors work.
but the gap needs to be right.
the wires must be perfect to transport those weak single to the distant ECU, like what 4 feet distant?
have you checked each sensors wire, for damage and continuity end to end?
advantages of hall.
1: costs more, oops not advantage.
2: strong perfect signals at all RPM , even in ALASKA, with near dead or weak battery.
3: no fiddling with GAPS.
4: vastly easier to test, with even an LED, lamp.... see mine. flashing????
dis-advanges of HALL
1: takes 1 more wire to make it work (power) so wire costs are more, say 10cents? again is your a 2 wire or 3 wire sensor.
2: takes 12vdc to the sensor, or 5v or 8v , depends no maker of car. but takes power there, if power is lost to there, the sensor goes DEAD.
ok the 3rd pin is ground. on CKP
if the schmematic is accurate.
the CMP is HALL
and the CKP is non hall , a VR coil sensor its called. coil1, coil 2 and ground.
http://www.fixkick.com