i got lost in the 1s photo, all we need is the yellow (solid) contact(set) then 19's
i see no damage in any photos. but am not sure which contact is 3 and 19. mark them. as that.
photo 3 is too blurry, no macro mode, . I cant see if its damaged. but why must i guess.
you never found the pin 19/3 contacts, once that is known, then the slider is known, so I'd only need to look at one slider. (19/3)
pin 19 is hazard 12vdc power, and is part of the same set of contacts. (directly or indirectly not sure)
Bench tested:
did the switch fail from pin 19 to pin 3 (19 is yellow)? this is first. (good or bad, if bad we dismantle the switch, if good, then the 12vdc test done before was done wrong. (repeat time)
try to keep in mind we are trying to get , 12vdc power to the blinker relay, (it failed to)
with switch on the bench, and meter set to low ohms , and probes on 19 and 3 pins
it will read about 0 to 0.5 ohms. when blinking,if not the contacts are bad.
and will read infinity with the switch in non blink mode.
cheers.
remember pin 3 was dead in the car.
pin 19 was 12vdc (fuse power) in car, was good
pin 3 was 0v. in blink, key on e, that tells us the switch is bad
the next step is to use ohms low scale 200 ohms or 2000 (lows on your meter)
then touch meter leads from 19 to 3 (no polarity on switches)
the meter must read 0 to 0.5ohms, with the switch in blink mode,(bench tested, connector not connnected (pig tail)
if not the switch is bad, buy a new combo, (most 99.9% of all shops do that)
but we then take it apart, we then use the same OHM meter, on same low scale to find the pin 19 yellow and pin 3 yell-grn contacts
i want to find the actual contacts for those 2 pins, i find them and inspect only them.
why not clean the cards with paint thinner, (not acetone) by oil base thinner, safe.
get all that old carp 20 year old grease off those parts.
then at the store by a small tube of Silicon dielectric grease (in my store is a 1dollar, packet next to the cash register, looks like catchup packet there, and many others too there, all different but we want Silicon.
use that later after its all fixed.
if the switch fails not dissembled, its bad, 3 to 19.
if it does not fail. then we did the power tests wrong long ago.
the video is set to private, its not usable.
![[Image: 3_22_11_14_1_58_45.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_22_11_14_1_58_45.jpeg)
history 1 TO 6:
1 we failed the on car test. 12vdc in , 0v out, on pin 3 to 19.
2 so we next to on beach test, and see if the switch closes and shows 0 to 0.5 ohms, closed, if not its bad, if it does, the on car test was done wrong.
3 ok it fails , we take switch apart, and find contacts 3 and 19, are the clean and perfect, no, then correct that.
4 IF theY are good, i then find the matching slider set. to 3/19, then make sure they are clean and perfect, if not correct that.
5 i then put it back together and repeat all tests above, starting with the bench, 3/19 ohms test.
6 if that passes i put it back in car, if not repeat till it does.
that is the whole process....
i still do not know which contacts are 3 and 19
so can not look and comment. forget the others, just those 2 matter, seeing as how there was no power to the blinker relay, long ago.
i see no damage in any photos. but am not sure which contact is 3 and 19. mark them. as that.
photo 3 is too blurry, no macro mode, . I cant see if its damaged. but why must i guess.
you never found the pin 19/3 contacts, once that is known, then the slider is known, so I'd only need to look at one slider. (19/3)
pin 19 is hazard 12vdc power, and is part of the same set of contacts. (directly or indirectly not sure)
Bench tested:
did the switch fail from pin 19 to pin 3 (19 is yellow)? this is first. (good or bad, if bad we dismantle the switch, if good, then the 12vdc test done before was done wrong. (repeat time)
try to keep in mind we are trying to get , 12vdc power to the blinker relay, (it failed to)
with switch on the bench, and meter set to low ohms , and probes on 19 and 3 pins
it will read about 0 to 0.5 ohms. when blinking,if not the contacts are bad.
and will read infinity with the switch in non blink mode.
cheers.
remember pin 3 was dead in the car.
pin 19 was 12vdc (fuse power) in car, was good
pin 3 was 0v. in blink, key on e, that tells us the switch is bad
the next step is to use ohms low scale 200 ohms or 2000 (lows on your meter)
then touch meter leads from 19 to 3 (no polarity on switches)
the meter must read 0 to 0.5ohms, with the switch in blink mode,(bench tested, connector not connnected (pig tail)
if not the switch is bad, buy a new combo, (most 99.9% of all shops do that)
but we then take it apart, we then use the same OHM meter, on same low scale to find the pin 19 yellow and pin 3 yell-grn contacts
i want to find the actual contacts for those 2 pins, i find them and inspect only them.
why not clean the cards with paint thinner, (not acetone) by oil base thinner, safe.
get all that old carp 20 year old grease off those parts.
then at the store by a small tube of Silicon dielectric grease (in my store is a 1dollar, packet next to the cash register, looks like catchup packet there, and many others too there, all different but we want Silicon.
use that later after its all fixed.
if the switch fails not dissembled, its bad, 3 to 19.
if it does not fail. then we did the power tests wrong long ago.
the video is set to private, its not usable.
history 1 TO 6:
1 we failed the on car test. 12vdc in , 0v out, on pin 3 to 19.
2 so we next to on beach test, and see if the switch closes and shows 0 to 0.5 ohms, closed, if not its bad, if it does, the on car test was done wrong.
3 ok it fails , we take switch apart, and find contacts 3 and 19, are the clean and perfect, no, then correct that.
4 IF theY are good, i then find the matching slider set. to 3/19, then make sure they are clean and perfect, if not correct that.
5 i then put it back together and repeat all tests above, starting with the bench, 3/19 ohms test.
6 if that passes i put it back in car, if not repeat till it does.
that is the whole process....
i still do not know which contacts are 3 and 19
so can not look and comment. forget the others, just those 2 matter, seeing as how there was no power to the blinker relay, long ago.
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