nice photos, first ever. here.
use your Ohm meter , on low ohms scale (resistance)
a short is 0 ohms
open is infinity
this is called continuity checking.
see that solid yellow wire, use the meter to find which contact is on yellow (12vdc fuse power is this line)
then if its like one in photo 1 top. are the taps bendable. if they overheat they get weak and bend down, causing and open circuit.
so bend them back to normal.
do so and test the switch with the meter, for 0 ohms from yellow solid to the yellow green , 0 ohms blinking left or right.
those oblong tabs look distorted to me. see that?
i do not know which contact is the yellow-green but id find it with my meter.
its the wire that goes to pin 3 on the relay. for sure.
G/Y is blink right
G/R is blink left
yellow is power (for blinks only)
Green is relay pulsing power input.
that leaves
Y/Green (suzuki and geo many use different colors here, you will have to figure this out ,via. relay pin 3
with this information you can test the switch on the bench, with any DMM ohms meter.
see this drawing, its accurate, (but is Geo drawing)
see those red arrows. from yellow down this is failing. this path. think of a highway and the river bridge is up, (switch open)]
http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=116
when you take a photo like that, please twist the wires to that all stripes are in view. so i can help better.
this is phase 1 of switch repair
phase 2 starts when you find actual contacts for solid yellow wire.
id need a photo of the other side of the switches, you only showed, 1 side.
triple sets have some kind of wiper contact that can fail too, there are 2 sides of all switches.
contacts and wipers.
and the mechanics that make the move.
use your Ohm meter , on low ohms scale (resistance)
a short is 0 ohms
open is infinity
this is called continuity checking.
see that solid yellow wire, use the meter to find which contact is on yellow (12vdc fuse power is this line)
then if its like one in photo 1 top. are the taps bendable. if they overheat they get weak and bend down, causing and open circuit.
so bend them back to normal.
do so and test the switch with the meter, for 0 ohms from yellow solid to the yellow green , 0 ohms blinking left or right.
those oblong tabs look distorted to me. see that?
i do not know which contact is the yellow-green but id find it with my meter.
its the wire that goes to pin 3 on the relay. for sure.
G/Y is blink right
G/R is blink left
yellow is power (for blinks only)
Green is relay pulsing power input.
that leaves
Y/Green (suzuki and geo many use different colors here, you will have to figure this out ,via. relay pin 3
with this information you can test the switch on the bench, with any DMM ohms meter.
see this drawing, its accurate, (but is Geo drawing)
see those red arrows. from yellow down this is failing. this path. think of a highway and the river bridge is up, (switch open)]
http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/e...iew&id=116
when you take a photo like that, please twist the wires to that all stripes are in view. so i can help better.
this is phase 1 of switch repair
phase 2 starts when you find actual contacts for solid yellow wire.
id need a photo of the other side of the switches, you only showed, 1 side.
triple sets have some kind of wiper contact that can fail too, there are 2 sides of all switches.
contacts and wipers.
and the mechanics that make the move.
http://www.fixkick.com