lets just do the turn/hazard relay now.
i just added the Suz colors for pin 3 see them. above, this wire changes color on pin3, from combo to relay. see that?
see that yel/green wire, that the color the Combo switch maker uses and can be any thing. (depends on maker of switch)
but at the relay, there will be yel/white or yell-blue there. and green, and black.
TEST 1:
the relay has 3 pins, I need the voltage on all 3 pins, of the relay, (not removed)
the best way to check this is with all 4 blinker lamps, in the car removed. (they do love to short, x10 for China crap bulbs)
the 4 blinkers in all 4 corners of car are Green wires. and the trailer wiring plug, in left rear trail light is not HACKED !!
This test 1 will prove the whole front of car is ok, all wiring up front. The Bench test and 1 to 8 prove the front end is ok. see?
if the front end passes all tests. then we attack the cars main blinker external harness.
1 Ignition key turned ON (dash cluster lamps glow (warnings)
2 blinkers on. make sure this is blinking (this means, grab the turn signal combo stalk lever and select left or right blink mode.)
3 ok all 3 voltages are checked, at relay actual, not the COMBO.
4 now see the red hand drawn lamp above? that is a test lamp, do that next, connect the test lamp ground pig tail wire to body ground
5 touch it to Relay 3, it glows because there is 12vdc there. (if not? the COMBO is bad ! we know it has power and fuse is good before.)
6 then touch Relay pin 2 with lamp probe tip, this simulates a working blinker, and will now blink and you will here the blinker clicking.
7 if it dont blink and click now. the relay is bad. see bench test below.
8 we can bench test the relay with that test lamp, very easy.
BENCH101:
how ? well lets do that now . its not hard at all. Relay out of car.
A using a 12vdc battery , connect minus battery lug to pin 1 on relay.
B then connect battery plus lug, to pin 3 of relay
C then connect the test lamp pig tail ground, to battery minus lug
D then touch the test lamp probe tip to pin 2 on relay, the lamp must flash or the relay is bad. and click. (stock clicks, after market relays may not)
this completes, phase 1 and 2 testing, and 1 bench test of relay.
if we get this far, (i doubt it) we can do the cars MAIN HARNESS LOADS, blinker side next. easy.
![[Image: 3_22_11_14_1_58_45.jpeg]](http://www.fixkick.com/bbs2/Suzuki-bbs/gallery/3_22_11_14_1_58_45.jpeg)
So what you mean is I should get the test light for better testing? YES. Needle won't work?
the meter is great, but the meter will NOT simulate real lamp loads. that is needed to test most blinkers.
my guess is the above is asking does the meter tell the truth, yes, it always does. if there is power to a pin and is 12vdc then that power feed
is working, that is what a DMM does, measures voltage.
the Flasher relay needs 0v on ground and 12v on its pin 2 power pin, if it does, then the relay has power. and is now blinking,
its that simple, but some relays need a load to work right.
the DMM does not present any type of a load, at all. and some relays will fail to work with no load.
that is why I drew a lamp in read hand drawn way, to show me using a test lamp, that creates such a load, (my cars lamps are all remove now)
i told you shorted lamps will not work right. they over load the relay..
when you say needle , this can be , backprobling needles/probes. or meter needle, or test light tip probe needle.
confuses me.
when green was dead, was the key on, and blinker combo switch turned to blink left or right?
i just added the Suz colors for pin 3 see them. above, this wire changes color on pin3, from combo to relay. see that?
see that yel/green wire, that the color the Combo switch maker uses and can be any thing. (depends on maker of switch)
but at the relay, there will be yel/white or yell-blue there. and green, and black.
TEST 1:
the relay has 3 pins, I need the voltage on all 3 pins, of the relay, (not removed)
the best way to check this is with all 4 blinker lamps, in the car removed. (they do love to short, x10 for China crap bulbs)
the 4 blinkers in all 4 corners of car are Green wires. and the trailer wiring plug, in left rear trail light is not HACKED !!
This test 1 will prove the whole front of car is ok, all wiring up front. The Bench test and 1 to 8 prove the front end is ok. see?
if the front end passes all tests. then we attack the cars main blinker external harness.
1 Ignition key turned ON (dash cluster lamps glow (warnings)
2 blinkers on. make sure this is blinking (this means, grab the turn signal combo stalk lever and select left or right blink mode.)
3 ok all 3 voltages are checked, at relay actual, not the COMBO.
4 now see the red hand drawn lamp above? that is a test lamp, do that next, connect the test lamp ground pig tail wire to body ground
5 touch it to Relay 3, it glows because there is 12vdc there. (if not? the COMBO is bad ! we know it has power and fuse is good before.)
6 then touch Relay pin 2 with lamp probe tip, this simulates a working blinker, and will now blink and you will here the blinker clicking.
7 if it dont blink and click now. the relay is bad. see bench test below.
8 we can bench test the relay with that test lamp, very easy.
BENCH101:
how ? well lets do that now . its not hard at all. Relay out of car.
A using a 12vdc battery , connect minus battery lug to pin 1 on relay.
B then connect battery plus lug, to pin 3 of relay
C then connect the test lamp pig tail ground, to battery minus lug
D then touch the test lamp probe tip to pin 2 on relay, the lamp must flash or the relay is bad. and click. (stock clicks, after market relays may not)
this completes, phase 1 and 2 testing, and 1 bench test of relay.
if we get this far, (i doubt it) we can do the cars MAIN HARNESS LOADS, blinker side next. easy.
So what you mean is I should get the test light for better testing? YES. Needle won't work?
the meter is great, but the meter will NOT simulate real lamp loads. that is needed to test most blinkers.
Quote: Lets say I pinch the green wire with needle (backprobe) and touch it key on will the DMM go from 0 to 12v if there is power to it? sat first i thought you are hot wiring the green wire. not now.
my guess is the above is asking does the meter tell the truth, yes, it always does. if there is power to a pin and is 12vdc then that power feed
is working, that is what a DMM does, measures voltage.
the Flasher relay needs 0v on ground and 12v on its pin 2 power pin, if it does, then the relay has power. and is now blinking,
its that simple, but some relays need a load to work right.
the DMM does not present any type of a load, at all. and some relays will fail to work with no load.
that is why I drew a lamp in read hand drawn way, to show me using a test lamp, that creates such a load, (my cars lamps are all remove now)
i told you shorted lamps will not work right. they over load the relay..
Quote:Or it does not work that way, only real light?
There are 12v from turn fuse and hazard fuse all the way to combo switch, but no power to relay in that yel/wht wire (pin 3) going into relay?
Quote:you say this but is the keyon, and the combo in the blinker ON mode?
Quote: Nor green?All of this done with the needle ([color=#FF4500]please say meter , dmm or voltmeter). Maybe I'm complicating matters?
when you say needle , this can be , backprobling needles/probes. or meter needle, or test light tip probe needle.
confuses me.
when green was dead, was the key on, and blinker combo switch turned to blink left or right?
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