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Wheel bearings recommendations....
#1
Fixkick,

Which wheel bearings do you recommend for a 95 tracker? I think I read you like the Timken brand?

Also, when you purchase wheel bearings, do you need to purchase an inner and outer bearing? Any other parts needed to do this job?

thanks,
John
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
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#2
front or rear.?
there are many , i listed them all on my wheel bearing page.
timken makes the best bearing on earth and tool steel, great stock to own too... top . there are many more, KOYO came with car new. and is tops too.


if you see my pages , see the bearings in 3 view . cross sections.
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html

its got 3 pieces.
you never ever buy bearings, with out the cups and cones, ever. they are matched, to super good precision.
you are thinking ball bearings.?

see down to brass tacks here.
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html

you buy them in a matched set, they are precision ground to extremes. (no mixing sub parts)
you must use your bearing grease ,never the comes with packing grease.

it is pressed in, that 1 piece single double cup, race
some times, it takes 10 tons to move it.
so wacking them out is a problem if that tight, and impossible going in, you never ever hammer on any new bearing.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#3
Thanks fixkick, I'll review all those links.

I'm looking at front bearings. I'm curious to know, if you purchase these "assemblies" on ebay, do you still need the bearings?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Bearing-an...11&vxp=mtr#

John
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
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#4
you are asking what is covered on that one page.
there are many generations of SUV here,
sammi to 2012 GV. 1986 to now.

that is not an assembly like on 1999+ , that part is just a bearing hub.
its just a raw empty hub. why spend $100 x2 , to get what you already have.?
just buy the bearings and press in the cups.
end deal.
the link above is for folks (crashed car) or the bearing seized and fused the races to the hump in a molten mass of death, (catastrophic loss of hub)

1: first look. at yours.
2: if they look ok and feel ok, and are not siezed, now, then buy bearings,
3: press old out, then press new end (all once job at any shop with press) cost me 25 bucks total, and 15min time. waiting. in room.. (they do this every day and are fast)
4: new seals, new grease, and reinstall.
5: set torque to 123 + ft./lbs and land on ring hole ,set the ring lock and screws.
6: brakes back wheel back.

if bearing are seized, car is unsafe to drive, so is moot point. just take it off and see if the damage, has caused, the races to melt. or fuse.
just about all stores in town here have the AC-Delco hubs listed on my find parts page. items 26
http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html

fw252, are ACdelcom hubs. sold everywhere.

even $80 on amazon.
vast hits. see em?
https://www.google.com/webhp?gws_rd=ssl#...lco+fw-252

had the hubs to the shop, guy
he will tell you if the races are not coming out. or if there is damage there. (bluing , or other horrors)
in most case the old hubs are servicable.... its very rare not to be.
but is possible.
as is all things.
http://www.fixkick.com
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#5
Thanks fix!

Do you have any part numbers on the bearings? I watched the video in your document. It's a great look at what's involved. I see that he appears to have taken out open bearings, but then replaced them with a sealed style bearing.

John
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
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#6
every auto store in the country stocks them.
what is the question?
the part numbers vary by maker,
my page lists 2 top makers and p/n . but you dont need the pn.
just walk in to any auto store, and buy them .

that video. those are the same hubs as yours, they are removable bearings, up to 2000.

see min mark 10:42 that is him removing the rear cone.

then at 17:36 he fails to show him self dropping in the bearing. and puts in the snap ring.
the whole video is bad. he then forget to show he puts the hub on the shaft and skips showing putting the outside bearing in the hub at 20:16
so the video fail in many ways, and the torquing step is total blown off. (just a mumble)
ok i dont know what to say, your car has the 3 piece bearings, THERE are no OTHER TYPES . until 2001 (whole hub and who bearing inside for ever )

the video skips many steps... that is why my page has all those photos and diagrams to you see what it really is.
i even have the full FSM page to read. there.

read page 3C-11 , is this not clear in the real FSM. every step.? see the 7 drawings in a row there, its very clear what the guy is doing,
http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-3c-pdf.htm

odd the video skips most of that.
best is not to watch the video, there are no other better ones, so until that happens stuck with this, its not mine. its just one that pops up easyh.


back to bearings
first off, i have no idea as to what auto stores are there.
we have NAPA and Pep boys and advanced auto here. i never touch autozoned, cept grease rags.

NONE ARE SEALED< EVER>
here is the first hit on NAPA
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...0329298486
PGB PFW151

see that white spacer inside the hole , that is to keep the 2 cones from falling out of the dual race.

we can go to every store and usa and click your car, and type wheel bearings. and get the same thing.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/drive...l+bearings


need more, ask.

if curious about more sources, rockauto has lots.
see that here
shows both front and rear, rear are BALLS
fronts are 3 piece.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...ttype=1672

thats 8 sources, pn.


text log:
it is a simple job. i found the only hard part is those 4mm screws.
you remove the nut ring and the hub falls off off the spindle.
the front bearing cone lands on your toe.
you walk to the bench, and pop both seals. at rear of hub,
and next the large snap ring.
the rear bearing falls out, and you now have this.
[Image: hub-with-races.jpg]

see that cup there, inside. looks same from both sides, that is a 3 piece bearing. 1 on toe, one in hand and the cup inside.
you got to napa get the bearings
you drive to machine shop.
hand the man the 2 new bearings and 2 hubs
drink 1 coffee.
its done.
now put it back. like the FSM shows. (liked above.)
http://www.fixkick.com
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#7
If you do things that way, you aren't going to get Timken bearings. Who knows what they are going to sell you?
95 Geo Tracker, Build Date 1/95,16v, Fed, Cami, 4x4, MT, Headed for Grenada.
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#8
that is not true, rockauto, sell them.
and if you walk in the store, you see then on the counter
and the PN on the box is correct. its there before you eyes.

here is my list.
http://www.fixkick.com/hubs/FW_BEARINGS.html#pn


but why would you mail order for parts, when every store in town sells them.
and no shipping? charges.

i pick brand, the find a store that has My brand, then go there and look, end story.
I dont want any of the 600 brands of chain non name bearings, on my cars.
nor get sent ball axle bearings or rear bearings. as many sell for front hubs in error.

walk in and look. is best.
http://www.fixkick.com
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