the front cog will come off in 5th gear.
but if its way too tight, from loctite or crazy man with impact gun, then its too tight. 94ft/lbs is the new spec.
I always try taking it off by hand first. (do no harm first) then the RAD comes out, this one fact makes the job super easy (NO RAD)
heck with a new water pump there is no coolant, so take out the rad. its super easy to do.
then use heat on the nut, and hit it with the Impact gun, on low, (again, go easy and work up to harder)
one guy hit on max, (had loctite) and stripped the crank threads, killing the crank. <<< do not gorilla the bolt)
5th gear will be a tad spongy, but ive sat there with my huge 1/2 drive breaker bar. and hit 200ft.lbs, CCW. easy, and it typical this # after 60k miles....
200 is my limit, then comes, heat or heat cycling it 2 times. then with it hot do 200. oops it turned, oops it was that extra hard locktite, some ar 300F rated.
thermal cycles break the bond.. and hot makes loctite break free.
go easy and win.
keep in mind this one fact
if the car is say still stock, say no belt change ever. and remember the bolt does not need to come off with the belt. (only at seal change)
that it may be at 50 pounds, (dead wrong) and most of these cars the bolt nearly falls out.
50 was the stock setting in the last year 1995, 1996 is the date of the TSB correcting that blunder.
what i do, day one, is check my bolt 1st, see how much torque it takes to spin the bolt CCW
my belt pages explains this logic.
if the bolt was at 50 or less the key gets inspected.
if its way over 100, or at spec, i leave it be.
so??? it takes only 15min to check that. I use my beam torsion torque wrench that works backwards, to do that. its a spec.. suzuki test.
but if its way too tight, from loctite or crazy man with impact gun, then its too tight. 94ft/lbs is the new spec.
I always try taking it off by hand first. (do no harm first) then the RAD comes out, this one fact makes the job super easy (NO RAD)
heck with a new water pump there is no coolant, so take out the rad. its super easy to do.
then use heat on the nut, and hit it with the Impact gun, on low, (again, go easy and work up to harder)
one guy hit on max, (had loctite) and stripped the crank threads, killing the crank. <<< do not gorilla the bolt)
5th gear will be a tad spongy, but ive sat there with my huge 1/2 drive breaker bar. and hit 200ft.lbs, CCW. easy, and it typical this # after 60k miles....
200 is my limit, then comes, heat or heat cycling it 2 times. then with it hot do 200. oops it turned, oops it was that extra hard locktite, some ar 300F rated.
thermal cycles break the bond.. and hot makes loctite break free.
go easy and win.
keep in mind this one fact
if the car is say still stock, say no belt change ever. and remember the bolt does not need to come off with the belt. (only at seal change)
that it may be at 50 pounds, (dead wrong) and most of these cars the bolt nearly falls out.
50 was the stock setting in the last year 1995, 1996 is the date of the TSB correcting that blunder.
what i do, day one, is check my bolt 1st, see how much torque it takes to spin the bolt CCW
my belt pages explains this logic.
if the bolt was at 50 or less the key gets inspected.
if its way over 100, or at spec, i leave it be.
so??? it takes only 15min to check that. I use my beam torsion torque wrench that works backwards, to do that. its a spec.. suzuki test.
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